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1501  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Smart Glass and Arduino on: August 27, 2012, 08:51:32 pm
Make sure you have an appropriate fuse and switch somewhere upstream of the transformer <insert "you can die from high voltage" comments here>. I can barely see the colors in the picture, but the blue wire on the transformer input is neutral and the brown is hot. In the US for home wiring that would correspond to white and black, respectively.

One side of each panel would then be connected to the neutral (white?) from the transformer output. The hot/common (black?) from the transformer would be split into four wires, and each wire would connect to the four "COM"s on the relay board. You would then take four separate black wires and connect them between the "NO" (normally open) on each relay to the second pad on the panel.

It looks like a digitalWrite(HIGH) to any of pins 0, 1, 2, or 3 on the Arduino then activates the respective relay. Be warned that pins 0 and 1 will flicker when you're uploading a program to the Arduino so you probably want to disconnect the shield whenever you upload a sketch. There are cheaper relay boards out there (example and tutorial) that would be less restrictive in that respect -- while you can't stack them right on the Arduino you have more flexibility in which pins to use.
1502  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Smart Glass and Arduino on: August 27, 2012, 06:01:34 pm
Can you provide a link to tech specs for this film (manufacturer website / where you bought it, etc.)? You've hinted that it is switched with 100V AC but the minds on the board will want the full specs in lieu of making a recommendation that will burn down your house.

The relay board you have linked to is capable of 3A at 120V AC or 3A at 24V DC (according to the printing on the relays in the picture). Relays and switches are always rated separately for AC and DC current due to arcing on the switch contacts and how it differs with AC and DC.
1503  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: 38khz gnerator on: August 27, 2012, 05:10:22 pm
See: http://www.arcfn.com/2010/03/detecting-ir-beam-break-with-arduino-ir.html

1504  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: High Power LEDs connected to car battery on: August 27, 2012, 02:46:19 pm
You cannot drive two LED boards in parallel with a single constant current driver. The driver has no way of splitting the 1400ma current into two equal 700ma chunks for each of the boards.
1505  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Arduino for image sensors on: August 27, 2012, 12:32:20 am
Arduinos are generally inappropriate for image handling. They don't have nearly enough memory to hold a picture of reasonable resolution and they're not fast enough to do any kind of image manipulation.

USB 2.0 is 480Mbits/second and that just doesn't jive with an Arduino running at 20MHz.

You need to provide more details as to what exactly you're trying to achieve if you want additional help.
1506  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Arduino, IMU controlling Airplane on: August 27, 2012, 12:20:10 am
1a) Use the BEC (at 5V) on the ESC. This goes to 5V and GND on the Arduino.
1c) Correct on the first two. On the last one, powering the servos, do not try to draw power for the servos through the Arduino. You need to split off power for the servos from the BEC on the ESC.

2) It would be preferable to buy an I2C sensor instead of an analog one (most are I2C now). As to "why" just think of it as the difference between digital and analog and how digital is always better smiley-wink. You can spot an I2C sensor as it will have SCL and SDA pins on it. Read some tutorials on I2C for more information.

sbright: I know firmware exists for planes for the KK boards (yosler: google "KK Multicopter") as I've seen a few that have the firmware built in. As to whether or not you can download that firmware is another question...
1507  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Controlling multiple output pins.... on: August 27, 2012, 12:03:58 am
The outputs stay as you set them until you explicitly change the state of their output (another analogWrite or digitalWrite).
1508  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Led Strobe Lights (Multi Patterns) Help on: August 26, 2012, 09:28:02 am
You can use the code in http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,118230.msg891644.html#msg891644

See my explanation of setting up the blink pattern in reply #5.
1509  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: GY-80 9 axis gyro from DX Extreme Code??????? on: August 25, 2012, 04:08:48 am
According to the comments on the DX site:
Quote
The L3G4200D is a low-power three-axis angular rate sensor...
The ADXL345 is a 3-Axis, ±2 g/±4 g/±8 g/±16 g Digital Accelerometer...
The HMC5883L is designed for three-axis magnetic compass with a digital interface...
The BMP085 is a digital pressure sensor...
You just need to treat it as a set of four individual devices.

Adafruit has a good explanation on how to wire up an I2C device and also explains how to access the BMP085 sensor: http://learn.adafruit.com/bmp085/overview and make sure you note the list of pages on the left.
Blidr.org has a library for the ADXL345: http://bildr.org/2011/03/adxl345-arduino/
Pololu has an L3G4200D library: https://github.com/pololu/L3G
And Bildr again for the HMC5883L library: http://bildr.org/2012/02/hmc5883l_arduino/

The other X_XXXX pins appear to be non-critical. They access special features of the respective chips (P_XXX for the pressure sensor, A_INT1 for the accelerometer, T_INT1 for the gyro, and M_DRDY for the magnetometer). You'll need to dig into the datasheets for those chips to get the details there.
1510  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Mini Stage Show x 20 on: August 24, 2012, 11:58:44 pm
I would suggest posting in the Installation and Troubleshooting section.

You didn't mention if you have an official Arduino Mega, a clone mega, or you might even have a counterfeit Mega. If you bought from a disreputable seller the latter is quite possible.
1511  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need some advice on a large scale turn table project. on: August 23, 2012, 09:50:55 pm
Strictly speaking that gives you adjustable power control. If the load on the platform varies as its turning then the speed will as well. If you purchased one of Pololu's motors that have an attached encoder then you would have a way to get feedback as to how quickly the motor is actually turning and you could control it precisely.

...but again that's mostly academic. Assuming your platform won't have outside influences putting more load on it then it should turn at a pretty stable speed. Your component selection is fine.
1512  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: gear source on: August 23, 2012, 08:55:44 pm
servocity.com (hobbyist) or sdp-si.com (professional)
1513  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Rotation sensor for robotic arm? on: August 23, 2012, 08:42:50 pm
Accelerometers attached to your arm and forearm would tell you the angle that each is tilted at (after you stop moving your arm). Not sure what the best way to detect swinging your arm though.
1514  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Landing Mode on: August 23, 2012, 08:37:56 pm
Is there any specific IMU code for an airplane?

http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot-mega/

I'm sure there's plenty more. Keep looking. Also be sure to read DuaneB's guides to reading from an RC receiver (scroll down):

http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/p/project-index.html
1515  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Looking for a nice pot on: August 23, 2012, 10:12:11 am
http://www.allparts.com/Knobs-and-Switch-Tips-s/94.htm
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