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1501  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Bi-directional tube motor with 4 Relay Module on: November 27, 2012, 08:50:02 am
I have no idea what a "tube motor" is so I'm assuming that you understand the pinout there and have the power connections right.

Looking at how you have your relays wired, you have the potential to create a short circuit if both relays are energized. That's not a good idea unless you're the type of person that never writes software bugs and never has a hardware failure.

The + from your main power should go to the common of the first relay, the NO output of that first relay to the common of the second relay, and then the NC and NO of that second relay should go to 3 and 4 of the motor. This way the first relay controls power on/off and the second relay controls direction.

Terry's wiki on relay boards does a great job explaining how to hook these things up.
1502  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Controlling the computers mouse on: November 27, 2012, 08:36:17 am
To do this you would want to write a program (on the PC) to listen for commands on the serial port from the Arduino and control the mouse. You would need to look into available libraries for this for whatever OS and whatever programming language you're using. The InterfacingWithSoftware page provides a large number of examples for various programming languages.

On the other hand, if you're just trying to build a sort of Arduino mouse then my answer stinks and you should follow HazardsMind's link. I'm assuming you still want to be able to communicate that analog reading to the PC.
1503  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to execute a function for "t" time without delay + using external interrupt on: November 27, 2012, 08:25:09 am
Look in the example for the "TimeAlarms" addition in the []Time[/url] library.

You topic subject mentions "+ using external interrupt"; I assume you meant for the timing only or is there something else you were trying to accomplish?
1504  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Plug it in a Wall and Use Bluetooth to Move Mountains on: November 27, 2012, 08:11:23 am
Just explain exactly what it is you're trying to accomplish. Don't make it into some kind of mystery -- you're not going to get a good answer.
1505  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: Weak IR LEDs on: November 27, 2012, 08:07:22 am
I'd suggest testing with a bright red or white LED so you can see obvious problems, and either of those should get you a meter distance minimum. Once you get that working then you can switch to the infrared LED.

These receivers don't require "940nm" LEDs but rather that is just the optimal wavelength. But, y'know, premature optimization is the root of all evil.
1506  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Attiny85 Communication with Arduino UNO on: November 27, 2012, 07:44:20 am
//                  +-\/-+
// Ain0 (D 5) PB5  1|    |8  Vcc
// Ain3 (D 3) PB3  2|    |7  PB2 (D 2)  Ain1
// Ain2 (D 4) PB4  3|    |6  PB1 (D 1) pwm1
//            GND  4|    |5  PB0 (D 0) pwm0
//                  +----+

Pins 6 and 7 are digital 1 and digital 2. Adjust txPin and rxPin appropriately.

You can find the above info in hardware/attiny/variants/tiny8/pins_arduino.h
1507  Using Arduino / LEDs and Multiplexing / Re: More shift register problems? on: November 25, 2012, 12:48:18 am
Try throwing in a short delayMicroseconds() after each digitalWrite. Or it might be just needed before you throw the latch high.
1508  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Interfacing Arduino with Pololu JRK21v3 help please! on: November 24, 2012, 10:50:58 am
Just need to smooth out your analogRead() somehow.

void loop() // run over and over
  static int lastRawA2D;

  char Command[10]={0xAA,11,0x45,0xAF};
  int RawA2D;
    if (analogRead(AN0pin) > lastRawA2D) {
      RawA2D += 1;
    } else if (analogRead(AN0pin) < lastRawA2D) {
      RawA2D -= 1;
    lastRawA2D = RawA2D;

    Command[2]=0xC0 + ((char)RawA2D & 0x1F);
1509  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Relay wiring help/confirmation? on: November 22, 2012, 11:54:29 pm
The small terminals connect as you stated; the relay should be powered with 5V.

The middle screw terminal is your "hot" 240V line. For the remaining screw terminals, one is normally open when the relay is off and one is normally closed. The white printing near those terminals shows that (going by the picture) the terminal closest to the camera is normally closed ("on") and the farthest one is normally open ("off").
1510  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: variable air solenoid control on: November 22, 2012, 11:46:38 pm
You're looking for a pressure "regulator" to do this. It's the same idea as your valve-connected-to-a-servo scenario, but regulators have a spring loaded ball inside them to control the pressure whereas a valve just opens an orifice.

Any home improvement store should have them for under $10.
1511  Community / Website and Forum / SSL Certificate for is Expired on: November 22, 2012, 11:02:20 am
Expiration date was 11/22/2012 11:53:52 GMT
1512  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Awesome LED glasses project on: November 21, 2012, 11:57:53 pm
So did you accidentally stumble on this as you've claimed or is it the fact that you're personal friends with the project owner that lead you to this project?

Just curious. Because the latter would be pretty amazing.
1513  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need an air flow generating unit for automatic wind instrument on: November 21, 2012, 02:00:18 am
Wouldn't a decent sized centrifugal fan work for this? I thought recorders don't have all that much air resistance. In fact wikipedia mentions pipe organs use pressures in the order of 0.1 psi which equates to roughly 2.75 inch-aqua. I'm pretty sure even small centrifugal fans that were used in computers years ago can create static pressures higher than that.

The fan needs to be an impeller type and not squirrel cage. Even a ~250W furnace blower (which are squirrel cage) don't do anything for static pressure (DAMHIKT). You could use something like a vacuum cleaner motor or pool toy / mattress inflator but the problem is that they're too damn noisy.

To your question on CFM for a refrigerator compressor it looks like they're in the 1 CFM  (28 liter/minute) range and capable of ~100 PSI. Surprising number of examples of "homemade air compressors" on Youtube using these pumps. They are oil piston compressors just like typical large compressors so I suppose it does make sense.
1514  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Adruino monitored wind turbine on: November 20, 2012, 11:29:53 pm
Any analog pin is fine for the voltage divider -- make sure the pin will never see more than 5V.

It's not at all clear what you mean by a "dump resistor". If you're referring to burning off power from the wind turbine when your batteries are full, then that resistance should be between the two wires of your generator (assuming a DC or single phase generator) and switched on and off with a mosfet or relay. A 1.7Mohm resistor is much too high for this, but unless you can provide more details as to the peak voltage and amperage of your wind turbine it's impossible to make a suggestion.
1515  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: LED Gurus? on: November 20, 2012, 11:19:03 pm
Read the battery; it should state a "mah" (milli amp hour) rating.

For alkaline batteries, a 9V battery has around 550mah meaning it can supply 500 milliamps (.5 amps) of current for an hour (or 250 milliamps for 2 hours, etc.). An AA battery is around 2000mah.
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