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61  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Burn Bootloader -> Arduino as iso on: February 23, 2013, 04:40:19 pm
You select the "Arduino as ISP" Programmer in the Tools->Programmer menu, select the target board in Tools->Board and then select Tools->Burn Bootloader

Thanks!
62  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Burn Bootloader -> Arduino as iso on: February 23, 2013, 04:35:39 pm
I keep reading that under the tools menu there is a burn bootloader option that has a sub menu under it that gives you the option "burn boot loader arduino as isp".  Mine doesn't have that.  It is just "burn boot loader" with no sub-menu.  Where can I find the burn bootloader arduino as isp command?
63  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 09:04:28 pm
Your proposed approach should work. Personally I use this sketch:

http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11638

You connect up the wires as shown (you don't need the SD card just to change fuses) and can then interrogate and change fuses through the serial monitor.

But, burning the bootloader should work OK. Assuming that the Arduino as ISP sketch actually does change the fuses.

Thanks!  I may give that a try.
64  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 08:00:07 pm
To do that, do I just change this line in board.txt:

Code:
atmega328bb.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x05

to

Code:
atmega328bb.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x06

and then burn the bootloader again?

Yes that should do it. If you have a ISP programmer you shouldn't have to burn the whole bootloader. eg.

Code:
avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U efuse:w:0x06:m



I just have the arduinoISP and the "burn bootloader" button on the arduino ide.
65  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 07:37:11 pm
8 mil traces, buck-boost converter. OOF! Is this on the same pcb? I don't know which part
you're using, but see the picture, same idea for buck-boost,



Well the traces dealing with the converter and charging circuit are all polygons.  So for instance, this is what the bottom layer looks like around the buck/boost converter (TPS63001DRCT) and the top layer is a solid ground plane with lots of vias stitching the two sides together.  The thick traces leading out from there are a revision that will go in the next board.  In the board that I am working on right now, they are thin traces but the polygons directly around that little SON10 package are all there.


converter by jg1996business, on Flickr
66  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 07:27:42 pm
Change the fuse to brownout at a lower voltage and see what happens.

To do that, do I just change this line in board.txt:

Code:
atmega328bb.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x05

to

Code:
atmega328bb.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x06

and then burn the bootloader again?
67  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 07:05:41 pm
I would measure the voltage and see. Also your sketch, which we can't see, might have bugs.

Unfortunately I don't have a scope so I can't see what the voltage is at the moment that it resets.  I am sure the sketch is buggy, but it does run when the battery is fully charged.  It makes it hard to debug when I can't figure out if the reset condition is due to bugs in the sketch or if it is a hardware design problem.
68  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 07:04:22 pm
No I would not consider there would be sufficient voltage voltage drop on a narrow trace. Mainly because there is very little current flowing.

That is what I kind of figured when I first made the board, but it just seems weird that it works fine when the battery is fully charged but when it gets down to about 3.8 - 3.9V, it just starts entering a reset loop.  The buck/boost converter is putting out 3.3V so it isn't even having to boost the voltage at that point.  I thought that perhaps I didn't have enough capacitors next to the Vcc pins on the mega as another possibility.
69  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 06:32:11 pm
The brown out voltage is not related to the supply voltage it is fixed. See the data sheet.

Right.....brown out voltage is 2.7V based on the arduino fuse bit settings.  I'm just wondering if the 8 mil traces could cause a significant voltage drop (from 3.3V to below 2.7V) when, for example, a pin connected to an LED turns on?  If you need more information, please let me know.
70  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Brown out reset loop due to thin traces? on: February 17, 2013, 06:22:55 pm
I made a board with a mega328, GPS Module, a few LED's and SD Card on it and I notice that when the battery still has plenty of power (3.9V (LiPo) with the mega328 operating at 3.3V internal 8 MHZ clock source) it will enter what I think is a brown out reset loop.  I think the culprit may be the fact that the entire board is routed with 8mil traces.  I have .1uF capacitors next to each Vcc pin and 2 10uF capacitors at the output of the buck/boost converter.  I don't have an oscilloscope so I can't really see what is happening.  Based on experience, would 8mil traces likely be the culprit?
71  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Using an Arduino Uno with the mega328 removed to program a 3.3V target board on: February 10, 2013, 09:03:49 pm
Quote
showing how one could wire 120VAC directly into a input pin via a series resistor (some megohms? I forget) to use as a zero crossing detector.

That's really cool!
72  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Using an Arduino Uno with the mega328 removed to program a 3.3V target board on: February 10, 2013, 08:34:43 pm
Quote
If the mega32u4 on the Uno is sending the bits over at 0 - 5 volts will it screw up the mega on the target board given that Vcc will be 3.3V?

Yes. The 5vdc signals (clock and data out) will cause the input protection diodes to conduct on the 3.3vdc powered target chip. So means must be taken to limit the voltage of the control signals to the same as the Vcc voltage of the target chip, via voltage divider resistors or voltage translation IC, etc.

Lefty


I ended up just throwing a 10K resistor on the Rx line of the target board to limit the current going through the input protection diodes when they conduct.  It seems to be working....i.e. no dead pins or smoke...yet.  I seem to remember reading somewhere that you can do this.  Am I wrong, because if I am then I have to rethink another part of my circuit where I have the unregulated LiPo battery voltage going to an ADC pin?
73  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Trying to figure out what is draining my battery on: February 10, 2013, 04:18:27 pm
Ahhhh.....I always manage to miss something.  Well not the end of the world.  I assume that I can't disable the converter without fouling the power supply to the mega328?  I guess I can just keep it plugged into a charger when not in use.
74  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Control Arduino over the internet on: February 10, 2013, 03:28:49 pm
Use this example as it shows how to turn pins on and off over the internet.

http://bildr.org/2011/06/arduino-ethernet-pin-control/

I used this as the basis for a controller to turn lights and pumps on and off on my fishtank.  I can do it from anywhere in the world as long as I have an internet connection.  You will need to set up the arduino/ethernet shield combo as a webserver at the location where you will have the red "you screwed up" light.  Connect it to a router and enable port fowarding on the router to route all port(??) requests to the ip address of the ethernet shield.  I had a problem using Port(80) when I did mine because my ISP blocked it.  I used port(150) and it worked fine.  Just send commands over any web browser.
75  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Trying to figure out what is draining my battery on: February 10, 2013, 03:11:01 pm
You could quickly find out by using a razor knife.
Cut a power trace, insert the ammeter across the cut, then solder the trace.

Darn.....I was hoping to not have to start cutting into stuff.  I bypassed the 3.3V converter and the battery charging circuit by just applying 5V to Vcc and I get a current draw in sleep mode of 170uA.  I can't believe the converter or charger are sucking up 4.4mA.  This is kind of disappointing to say the least.  The whole thought process was that with everything asleep, the battery drain would be negligible.  According to the datasheet for the converter, the quiescent current is less than 50uA and for the charger it should be less than 5uA.  What could I be missing here?
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