Sorry all,

try this one..... http://www.oceanedgeoutfitters.com/rEvo-Monitoring-System-R408-p/revo-r408.htm

Probably not required to answer the question but there are probably some wondering what this is for.

The rEvo is a closed circuit rebreather.  Basicly a gas recycler for SCUBA use. Unused gas is recycled while metabolized  oxygen is replaced by an on board oxygen tank.
Produced CO2 is scrubbed out by use of a chemical agent. This process generates heat and its this heat the RMS system ( and a system I have built as well) monitors.

http://www.revo-rebreathers.com/uploads/rMS__FAQ__v161011.pdfs

There is a product that will transfer power to an array of 4 (?) temperature sensors ( probably DS18b20's or similar) and then receive the data all wirelessly very a very short distance of a few mm's.

So the question is how does it work??

A link to the product, Items 6 and 9 have 4 temp sensors in them. Items 5 and 8 transmit the power and receive the data.

I found this page that shows a sketch that does what I wanted.

Thanks for you help guys.

I will of course need to put the sensors in order from lowest address to highest ( or do that via code) but that is not an issue.

http://www.vwlowen.co.uk/arduino/ds18b20/ds18b20.htm

I have a project that will ultimately have 5 ( or more) DS18b20  sensors on each of 2 pins.

The issue is that these 5 sensors may change from time to time. eg I will have 3 sensor arrays (A,B and C) and any one of these may be on pin0 while one other may be on pin1 while the third will not be in use.

What I would like to do is have the sketch read the address of the sensors in each sensor array then use "RequestTemperaturebyAddress" as opposed to "RequestTemperatureByIndex"

I have read the "One Wire Address Finder Sketch" but I cant figure out how to read an address, store the address then read from it later.

Can anyone help?

I have an underwater scooter Cuda 650....  http://www.dive-xtras.com/pages/products/cuda650.asp
that uses a BFA42-2d-200 motor http://www.magmotor.com/brushless/bfa-ba42.pdf
Battery pack is a 34 serial 14 ah NiMh pack (41v nominal)


 What is involved in making a new contoller for it based on Arduino?

As it is the controler has a 7 speed contol. It starts off in 3rd and a double click on the triger will increase speed while a single click will decrease speed.

What I would like to see is perhaps a change in speed options, a soft start, low battery warning and speed memory. These dont seem too difficult to implement being PWM, and voltage reading functions. But I have no idea on whats involved in running these types of higher voltage motors.

Thanks. I will try digitalwrite pin low after display().

As it is I turn the MOSFET on before anything else and turn it off after every thing else. But I wonder if it does it fast enough.

I am using a Newhaven 16x2 OLED parallel display ( 3.3v) on my Sanguino project running on a single Li Ion battery
I had the OLED powered all the time even when the sanguino was alseep. I turned the display off via code.
This worked fine but I was concerned with the battery drain ( 5ma for OLED when turned off via code).

So I now have the sangino switching a pin high that operates a transistor  that operates a MOSFET to supply power to the OLED.

First time I powered it up the OLED did not work even though it was getting nearly full battery voltage to it (4.10/4.15 or so).
I tried putting project to sleep and waking up and it still didnt work.
I then removed battery and reconnected and it worked. After that it would turn on and off when in sleep mode.

Then this morning the display would not turn on when woken from sleep mode. I removed and replaced the battery and it all powered up fine and worked when put in and out of sleep mode.

I have checked the voltage at the OLED and this is turning on and off as expected.

Any ideas on what could be the issue? Do I need a delay between powering up OLED and turning it on via code?

Another problem that may or not be related is that the pin that drives D7 on the OLED remains high when display is turned off via code and power is turned off via MOSFET. Shouldt all pins be driven low when display is turned off (  noDisplay()  )

Well I give up!
I went back to trying my laptop which didnt work in the past due to COM port in use issues. That now works.

Still like to get it sorted on PC though.

Still not having any luck.
I tried using ERW 1.01 but same issue.

My PC crashed and dies last week so I got a new one running Windows 7

I just downloaded Arduino 10.1 and it runs OK until I try and compile. It hands for 5 minutes or so then gives error messages.

Example. I compiled "Bare minimum" and got... 
cclplus.exe: error: BareMinimum.cpp: No such file or directory


I then tried "Blink"
It hung for 10 minutes but compiled, although it didnt in a earlier attempt.


Any ideas?

I have a project that uses a OLED 16 x 2 Newhaven OLED, a piezo switch and I would like to add a TMP36 temperature sensor.
The problem is these are remote from the Sanguino and the cable that connects them does not have a spare wire for the temp sense output.

Can I just hook it up to a wire shared with the OLED and read it when the OLED is not been writen to?
If so which is the best pin to use?  RS, E or one of the 4 data pins?

Or perhaps its better to use the piezo switch output connected up to the OLED pin's and have the TMP36 on its own pin.

There is room..... 2 x AAA cell sized room. Plus if I remove the flash I could mount it where the flash goes.


The  waterproofness  for the main unit is not an issue. I have made plenty of dive lights / cannister lights. That part of it is 50% complete+.
When I said IR I mean buliding a reciever to trigger the camera via the USB not via any built in IR reciever ( which it does not have).

No the front LED's are not required for focusing unless the ambient light is very low. Not an issue for my requirements. Plus focusing will be set manually for the time lapse.
IR light will not penetrate water very well at all but my plan was to have the IR LED hard up against the housing so it wouldnt need to travel through any water as such.

Thanks for the links!

http://dx.com/p/fsk-433mhz-wireless-remote-control-for-olympus-sp-590uz-sp-570uz-sp-550uz-e520-digital-cameras-58191

If this fits ( after taking it out of its casing) and transmits through 100mm of water, it should fit the bill.