Sort of a bump to the thread.

I have some perforated circuit board material coming - Vectorboard #169P44WEC1 which is copper clad on 1 side with .042 holes spaced every 0.1". Saves having to drill my sample boards. I have generated a board layout using AutoCAD and will be spending the next couple days drawing the resist pattern on the board and then etching it with Radio Shack Ferric Chloride etchant. Have spent that last couple weeks going over the design and that helped me spot an error in the schematic. I sort of had a schematic, but this was a project where the schematic followed the breadboard build and I found out I had drawn it  with the signals to the wrong pins... Oh well, slide them over and the schematic matches the working parts...

Salvaged some terminals and now I just have to get the materials in hand to try it out.

1000 RPM is rather fast. As I stated earlier, the faster you go, the less torque you produce. It would appear that this is some sort of mobile application so you are trying to work with the power you have. For full steps you might look into a simple transistor based driver with less intelligence, though you might have to make provision for current limit when not moving to avid heating your motors. For that you might need a motor with a lower voltage rating, but 12V or lower rated steppers is not anything rare.

The idea of PWM is fine for a heater, but the Arduino time base is way off. Becasue of the thermal mass of the liquid you are heating you on and off times will be much longer. By using a triac based device you will get what is called Zero Crossing Turnoff as the triac will turn off when the sine wave is close to zero volts. Reduces the amount of heat the device has to dissipate during the time when it is turning off.

You might want to look into a small temperature controller with PID built in to control the temperature. Either that or you will ruin a few batches until you get the control algorithm all figured out.

Are teh fuse bits set for /8 clock? they will run rather slow then.

You need to have a chip with a bootloader in it. You can use your Arduino (using ArduinoISP) to 'burn' the bootloader. There are a couple things you need to do to load the bootloader in to a 328 as compared to a 328P but once you have the UNO bootloader installed you then can install it in your Arduino board and program it as an UNO.

Because I have played with both in the un programmed state I added entries to the necesary AVRDude files so I can work with either.

Are you switching an inductive load or a resistive load? Inductive loads require a higher rating because of inrush current and possible arcing on release. Resistive loads have little or low inrush and thus don't need to be as heavy for a given load. Often on relays there are 2 ratings, one for motors (inductive) and a resistive rating. If you are switching a 5A motor you want a relay that is rated for 5 A inductive, or 10 A resistive. If you are switching the motor on and off rapidly you might want to go higher as the average load might then be much higher.

As far as voltage rating. Get the nominal voltage rating for the supply. 120VAC is used for switching line voltage that is nominally 120VAC. Can run from 110VAC to 136VAC and is still considerred 120VAC for specification purposes. If you are switching nominal 240 volts then get a relay with that rating.

Also - If you declare a global, and then inside a function declare another variable with the same name the local gets used and not the global. Have seen a couple times where a noob did that thinking it was the same variable. The local worked, but it didn't have the global value...
 and then when the function exited the global value was unchanged...

You need the time. Velocity is displacement over time. What is the timing between pulses.      ( Curr Disp - Prev Disp ) / delta time.

Is the variable temp getting changed somewhere else? temp is really a lousy name in this case because it is really being used as a constant. Better name would be something like hundred or cent.

Measure it. You will probably find that it has the necesary internal pull downs. Hook it up and test it.

I would throw out the boost converter and get a real power supply. Not knowing the rating on the boost converter, and how it limits current I would say this is the first place I would start. Second - How fast are you trying to run the motor? Are you using any acceleration? The faster you run a stepper motor, the less torque it has. SO - if you are trying to start the motion without any acceleration, the motor is not able to develop enough torque to overcome inertia.

#1 - get a real power supply with a high enough current rating and test it that way. A boost converter is not the way to go. The boost converter would need to have sever times the current rating of you motor/drive to function. That means even higher currents at your low voltage supply.

What voltages are you using? What motor RPM are you looking for?

His meter is probably reading 15 Ohms per phase with yellow as the common.

Was it on the English side, or on a more specific language side?

One thing that is a turn off is when a newby writes in such a manner that it would they would appear to be expecting someone here to drop everything and solve their problem for them. Or the question they ask is so vague that one really has little clue what is being asked for.

The other thing that can happen is that they posted on a busy day and dropped to page 2 of that topics threads. I don't often look past page 1 unless I am looking for a specific topic. When I have posted the topic has generally stayed on page 1 for a couple days and by the time it has dropped off page 1 I pretty much have an answer.

If your friend didn't post the info on the data sheet he might have gotten ignored because those posts tend to look like someone trying to get the forum to do his homework, and after a while posts that look that way are easier to ignore. May not be their case, but I know that that is how I think.

Need to let them know that they need to do the research work for us. Kind of like the poster needs to do the background work to "earn" other folks time helping them.

A 12V device like that might work OK with a simple voltage divider. Just make sure the grounds are tied together.

One reason I can think of for doing this is that much of this old knowledge is no longer available in a form that can be accessed. There is a lot of information that we have lost. Sometimes it can be very valuable to not only see what was done, but also how it was done. In this day of fast processors and huge memory and storage devices some of the methods and tricks they used can be very informative. We may be faster, but we are also much less efficient. They had to make things work without the benefit of small die sizes and our more modern manufacturing methods.

They might also be able to explain why the 6502 had to have the feature that if certain operations happened right on a 256 Byte page boundry the code would wrap around to the start of that 256 Byte block instead of going to the next 256 byte page. - the 6502 was truly an 8 bit machine...-

You might look into Anderson Power Pole connectors. They are fairly inexpensive and work very well. You can purchase them in specail power strips, or make your own. They are easy to assemble and they are easy to assemble so they are polarized so you don't hook them up wrong. You can generally get 25 pairs (black and red shells) for about $25 US. Other color shells are alos available so you can color code 5V 12V and other possible combinations. Used to use Red/Black on RC car batteries and Green/Orange on the motors. They also take up little space so you can have a lot of access points in a small area.

Check them out here - http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/15-amp-red-black-anderson-powerpole-sets.html

I have used them for RC Cars, Ham Radio, DC power distribution in a house with only solar power.