Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 104
1  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Strings or woodwinds? on: September 15, 2014, 10:22:01 pm
I know this  is in NOT the proper  place to talk business, but I figured as long as I won't talk about “blinking LED's”  I may get away with it.

Life long experience has taught me to express myself as precise, accurately as feasible; 
Here, you wander into the brass section. It's called 'blowing your own trumpet'.  smiley-grin
2  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Who hasn't accidentally touched a mains voltage once or twice? on: September 15, 2014, 10:13:53 pm
Many times. The worst was when I was moving a lighting circuit from an old fusebox to the new one. I pulled the fuse for the downstairs lights and disconnected the cable from the old fusebox. There couldn't be any current on it...but there was. Someone had crossed the wires in an upstairs/downstairs switch so that both circuits were live with only one of the fuses in place. I was stuck on the 250V AC cable for a couple of minutes, until the other 5A fuse blew. I don't want to repeat that!
3  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Soldering problem on: September 15, 2014, 09:19:34 pm
Lead free does'nt seem to be a problem, just needs more heat! 320+
oF, oC or oK?
4  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: To Arduino or not to Arduino - Model Railways on: September 15, 2014, 08:02:33 pm
Hi Jim

you might be interested in the attached as a variation on the script i wrote

Can we have a schematic for this, please?
5  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Newby that wants to build an agv on: September 15, 2014, 07:02:56 pm
Sounds like a standard line following robot, which is a well-traveled field, but leaving the line to avoid an obstacle and then re-acquiring the line is much more difficult! In addition to sensing and positioning yourself on the line, you have to do some dead reckoning when you leave the line.
There's also a problem when returning to the line. If you hit it at 90o, which way do you turn?
6  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Servo agitating water? on: September 12, 2014, 09:19:14 pm
Shouldn't be too difficult to make one yourself and, as there are no moving parts (apart from the magnet) in contact with the water, it should be long lasting. The stirring magnet should be coated with silicon rubber to protect it.

I want one to stir my Iced tea !
Do it yourself!   smiley-razz  smiley-mr-green
7  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Lead free solder on: September 11, 2014, 09:52:07 pm
The last primary lead smelting operation in the US closed its doors at the end of 2013 (Doe Run, in Missouri) because, in part, the EPA was going to force them to store their ore in enclosed buildings. So, yeah, lead sheltering would have made it look like a freshly bathed puppy smiley-wink

Smelting lead ore isn't inherently dangerous; it's the airborne dust from handling the ore that's a problem. Lead melts around 600F and you have to get it around 1600F for vapor to become a problem.
1600oF is about 870oC. That's about the same temperature waste incineration furnaces work at, so incinerating lead would be a problem. Finding suitable landfill sites in the UK is a major problem. Incineration is one alternative.
8  Community / Bar Sport / Re: [RPI ?] Wiringpi, Bash, and PWM on: September 11, 2014, 09:40:38 pm
This is not code I'm using, ...

Not the code, eh?

I found, even though it has headers, it's nothing like an Arduino!

Yes, then this is the wrong forum, sorry. May as well ask about a Chevrolet on a Ford forum.

Did Google massively misfire?
I'm wondering if he goes to a plumber for medical advice...
9  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Servo agitating water? on: September 11, 2014, 08:54:18 pm
The title is basically all that I'm asking. How would I go about constructing this to make sure it doesn't break down?
If you just want the water stirred you could use a magnetic stirrer, as used in laboratories.
Shouldn't be too difficult to make one yourself and, as there are no moving parts (apart from the magnet) in contact with the water, it should be long lasting. The stirring magnet should be coated with silicon rubber to protect it.
10  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Need ideas for a College Project with Arduino Boards on: September 11, 2014, 08:32:03 pm
A beer keg weight measuring system so you know when its getting low. Add a calibration system & display to estimate & show how manu mugs/steins/plastic cups of beer is left.

I love this but I can't bring a beer keg to school to display the example smiley-sad
Not even an empty one?  Fill it with water when you get there. You've only got to show that the idea works.
11  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: How to raise a component from a circuit board on: September 09, 2014, 11:22:36 pm
Thanks for the reply (god knows what I'm doing up at this time...)
Whereabouts are you? Sounds like you're in the UK.
It's an I2c display so only 4 pins in a single row.

My problem is that I can't find varying height sockets. Are such things commonly found?
You can't get shorter than a low profile socket, but different manufacturers have different heights for 'low profile'.
12  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: How to alter a analog signal on: September 09, 2014, 10:58:53 pm
HI , im after a way to alter the output of a potentiometer and this to be controlled by the arduino .
I have a potentiometer that is being used as a position sensor it normally reads between 1 and 4 v , When activated by the arduino
How is your Arduino 'activating' a pot?
i want the output of this to be altered to 3.5v 
The output of what? If you mean the pot, use a fixed resistor in series with it. If you had told us the value of the pot, we could have told you the value of resistor to use.
if this is higher than the pots own value , ( the higher value will always be the one output ) . This seemed easy to me at first and tried a second pot in parallel  switching the signal wire  but i then realised  the 2 voltage dividers will interact with each other and  when the 3.5 v applied if the position sensor goes to its 4 v position the output will be well over 4v .
I think i can figure out some ways to do this using the analog write and a filter but id like to know how this can be done with just components  so than when the arduino put out the 5v high the components sort out the rest .
None of that made any sense. A diagram may have helped.
13  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Mysterious "ghost definition" of a user-defined function on: September 09, 2014, 10:43:07 pm
Hardly worth using a function for.
I disagree. IsDead() clearly suggests some meaning that analogRead(0) <= 675 does not.
A clear and concise comment would suggest exactly the same.
E.g. //Is it dead?
14  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Tracking the state of pin 12 on: September 09, 2014, 10:30:51 pm
yes, except digitalRead() will return only a one or a zero... so programmers write your block like this:

void loop() {
  if(digitalRead(12) = LOW){
  digitalWrite(LED, HIGH);
  else // since the answer is zero or one... the second expression is redundant...
  digitalWrite(LED, LOW);

and we like to use the keywords HIGH and LOW will be recognized by arduino's editor and highlighted in your code!
And it can all be done in one line of code:
 digitalWrite(LED, !(digitalRead(12)));
15  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: millis() time problems. on: September 09, 2014, 10:11:26 pm
void DownSecuenceOn(){ 
for (int thisPin2 =A2; thisPin2 >= 2; thisPin2--) {       
digitalWrite(thisPin2, HIGH);
pirState2 = HIGH; }
Why not use the same type loop to turn them off?
void DownSecuenceOff(){ 
for (int thisPin2 =A2; thisPin2 >= 2; thisPin2--) {       
digitalWrite(thisPin2, LOW);
pirState2 = HIGH; }
Or better still:
void DownSecuence(boolean OffOn){ 
for (int thisPin2 =A2; thisPin2 >= 2; thisPin2--) {       
digitalWrite(thisPin2, OffOn);
pirState2 = HIGH; }
Just one function to do both actions.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 104