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361  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Post your code on: May 11, 2014, 12:38:01 am
I only just came across this thread. Good job Mike. Although there are a few "knockers" I do not see anybody else plugging in their cardoid to show us how it'd done  smiley-grin Come on step up to the plate fellas. I'll make it easy here is a backing track on YouTube
If I 'sing', the whole forum will be closed down!
362  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Idiotic Table - A periodic table for idiots on: May 11, 2014, 12:29:54 am

Chupacabra but no Jackalope?  I am terribly disappointed.

Oh wait.  I guess the Jackalope is real...
But where's the Crockoduck?
363  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Code line interpretation HELP on: May 10, 2014, 11:40:23 pm
And if possible, can someone show me a way to improve the code in order to switch the display from rpm's to km/h ?
Speed = RPM * wheel circumference or speed = RPM * Pi * wheel diameter. That will give you inches/minute, which can easily be converted into MPH.
Divide by inches in a mile (63360) and multiply by minutes in an hour (60) or just divide by 1056 (60/63360 = 1/1056)
364  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: how to send Alert and avoid doing it second time (loop)? on: May 10, 2014, 10:55:26 pm
You have to set threshold as the number of milliseconds you want to delay sending the second SMS. You've set it as 0, so there won't be any delay! I suggest you set it to 10,000 to give a 10 second delay.
365  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: To Arduino or not to Arduino - Model Railways on: May 10, 2014, 10:42:31 pm
You do realise that the crossover (2 points) you've shown above can be operated with just one servo and one relay. The servo has to be linked to both tie bars (or use two servos wired in parallel) and the relay (to switch the frog polarity) has to be a DPDT type (one pole for each frog). The two points would never, IRL, be moved independently. Both would be set to straight or both would be set to curved. That will halve the number of Arduino pins you'll need for each crossover and reduce your wiring.
366  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Starting Das Blinken Project need help with mini FET wiring on: May 10, 2014, 10:05:57 pm
Not your fault, but a tutorial without a circuit diagram and without a sketch ain't much use!  smiley-mad

The output you've shown looks as if your baud rates in the sketch and on the serial monitor are not the same.

The grounds on everything should be connected together, but it doesn't matter where.
367  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Detecting a stepper motor position after a power cut / setting a home position? on: May 10, 2014, 09:46:32 pm
Another way I suppose I could do this is have the stepper motors return to their "home" positions on startup and then move it forward to the correct time.
This is the way to do it.
May be have your home position at 12, i.e. one limit switch per hand.
You could have several 'home' positions, as long as you have sufficient spare pins on your Arduino. If you had them at 3, 6, 9 and 12 your hand would only have to turn through (max) 90o before its position is detected.

If there is sufficient space on your hands to fix a small magnet, you could use Hall sensors as home switches.
368  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Turning off a high voltage circuit with D3, HIGH on: May 10, 2014, 09:27:36 pm
Yeah, I can pull enough current to light a red LED,
Through what? From where?
so that's got to be close to  150mA.
A standard red LED will shine quite brightly on 1/10th of that and melt on 1/5th of that.
I was thinking an NPN transistor for the switch control. I'm trying to learn more about them. The trigger uses a simple push button, similar to the Arduino Uno reset button. I think I could patch my transistor between the push button and the motor.
Pictures and diagrams would help.
I'm waiting for the carbon brush to arrive by mail,
We're all waiting on some definite information, so that we don't have to guess what you're trying to do.
369  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: Blink without "delay()" - stepping up. on: May 09, 2014, 09:43:05 pm
Instead of:
 // Act if the latter time (ms) has now passed on this particular counter,
  if (timeout(&count1, 500UL )) {
    if (led1State == LOW) {
      led1State = HIGH;
    else {
      led1State = LOW;
    digitalWrite(led1Pin, led1State);
I'd use:
if (timeout(&count1, 500UL )) { //has the timing period ended?
 led1State = !led1State;//Invert Led1State, HIGH becomes LOW and LOW becomes HIGH.
 digitalWrite(led1Pin, led1State);//turn LED on or off, as defined by led1State.

I'd also add an explanation that, although this code only blinks LEDs, the principle can be use to time anything.
370  Community / Bar Sport / Re: This community sucks on: May 09, 2014, 08:45:13 pm
Go up one forum and find this page.
That was started yesterday, and finished today in a link to a $ 50,- indigogo project.
I'm not interested in it or any other of his projects, certainly not after OP's rant today (which wasn't the first time i saw comments like this from him).
As there are no answers to the aforementioned thread, and one comment that seems to be invisible on indigogo, there's no way of telling what set OP to his ranting rampage.
It appears that his rage was caused by there being no answers to his thread. The poor thing doesn't like being ignored. He should get over it.
371  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Post your code on: May 09, 2014, 08:14:31 pm
Suggest making a sticky out of wildbill's post, with Grumpy Mike's 2nd recording.
If we do that, they'll be demanding royalties.    smiley-money
372  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Post your code on: May 08, 2014, 11:41:30 pm
Having read one too many post today where this would have been handy, and following in the foorsteps of write in C. I give you, post your code:
Excellent, Wildbill, but I do have a suggestion for one verse.

The weeja board has failed us,
and the crystal ball's in overload.
There will be an answer, post your code....

The seers have all left this place,
and they've taken to the open road.
Whisper words of wisdom, post your code...
373  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Post your code on: May 08, 2014, 10:52:11 pm
OK - finally got round to doing a remix, hope you find it better.
Better on the balance, Mike, but the 'middle 8' was still the best bit.  smiley-grin
374  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Problem powering a Yun and a Mega on: May 08, 2014, 08:44:01 pm
I am working on a home automation project in which I have a Mega (2560) and a Yun.  I am powering the Mega USB input from a Kara Mobile regulated switching 5v supply with a hacked USB cable (+/- 5v only - no data).  I saw no discussion about the USB shield so I also connected the hacked USB cable connector shield/shell to the minus 5v line of the supply.  All seems OK to this point.  I  powered the Yun “Vin” from the Mega’s 5 volt buss.  This also seems to work OK but my problem is the large amount of current the Yun will be pulling and hence total power coming into the Mega. 
It seems that I could create 2 hacked USB cables in parallel on the regulated supply output to separately feed the two controllers.  Question: if doing this, should the the USB connector shield/shell be connected to the supply minus 5 volt line in both hacked cables?  Should there also be an additional ground between the Yun and Mega, since I hope to have them communicating in the future?
Alternately, it seems I could directly wire the regulated 5v to the Mega’s 5v buss and also to the “Vin” on the Yun with the Grounds connected together.  However, this would bypass any internal fuse/protection that the USB input would provide.  Any recommendations would be most appreciated.
You also have to remember that a USB 2 port can only output 500mA. Running the two from one port may overload the port. I understand that USB 3 ports (the blue ones) can output 1A.
375  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Using an Arduino in Vacuum on: May 08, 2014, 08:24:42 pm
The only way to be sure is to draw a vacuum on some examples. If it survives once, it should be good.
The expression that comes to mind is "Suck it and see."    smiley-grin
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