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61  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: LT1867 ADC - What pin is the unit8_t cs pin actually referring too ? on: August 30, 2014, 10:02:32 pm
It's uint8_t (unsigned 8 bit integer), not unit8_t.
I've found it makes things much easier to find if you're looking for the correct thing.  smiley
62  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: "Group purchase" of electronic components on: August 28, 2014, 11:21:28 pm
Also note that many of the members of this forum do not live in the USA.
63  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Okay to mount Arduino to Styrene? on: August 27, 2014, 10:19:28 pm
I've used 1.5mm styrene sheet to mount my Arduinos inside a metal case without any problems. As long as you've nothing rubbing the styrene, like a wheel or motor part, I think you'd have no problem. How else would you get static build-up?
64  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Urgent, Please help fix compiling code error on: August 27, 2014, 09:27:23 pm
Try this:
int check()
  if (Serial.available() > 0)    //Check for data on the serial lines.
    dataIn =;  //Get the character sent by the phone and store it in 'dataIn'.

        if ((dataIn >47) && (dataIn <58)){ //is it a number? See ASCII codes.
              velocity = (dataIn -48) *25;  //if so, set velocity.
         else{  //not a number
              return dataIn;
65  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to power the Arduino from a UK light switch on: August 27, 2014, 08:40:47 pm

I think we can agree that no one knows what is in the wall. 

site visit (licensed electrician)
if (neutral exists)
  add receptacle
 run wire for new receptacle
 add receptcle
That could be very expensive!
You've put it in a loop so, as soon as the electrician leaves, he'll be called back again....and again...and again...and will crash when there are no more light switches to add receptacles to.   smiley-slim
66  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to power the Arduino from a UK light switch on: August 26, 2014, 08:36:29 pm
One problem atm is imported chinese wall warts.
They have ho earth pin and do not trip rcd.
They just catch fire.
Don't blame just the Chinese, even genuine Nokia chargers have no earth connection.
But anything that's double insulated doesn't require an earth connection.
67  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Etch-resistant thermometer. on: August 26, 2014, 08:04:38 pm
Use a piece of heat shrink tubing at least three times as long as the depth of etchant. Place the sensor in the middle and shrink that area down. Bend the tube in two, hold both ends together with some insulating tape, adhesive or a short length of wider heat shrink. Both ends of the heat shrink can now be kept out of the etchant while the centre (sensor) is immersed. You can also seal the open ends to be extra sure no etchant gets in.
68  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: USB power jack needed on: August 25, 2014, 09:58:49 pm
I got a USB panel mounting B socket to USB line B plug extension lead from China. I believe Adafruit also sell something similar. The socket is about 1.5" (35mm) deep, inside the enclosure. I imagine a mini or micro B socket, if you can get a panel mounting one, would be smaller but might not carry sufficient current.
69  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: 240vac Aussie Plug Wiring. on: August 25, 2014, 09:36:00 pm
Since Europlugs can be inserted either way round, it doesn't matter which way you wire them.

It'll usually be wrong, whatever you do.  smiley-mr-green smiley-grin
70  Community / Bar Sport / Re: Why Q for transistors? on: August 24, 2014, 09:16:48 pm
Hi, yes quite a few characters had it in for the poor Bluebottle,   "He's fallen in the water."

Tom.... smiley
"You deaded me!"
Bluebottle appears to have been 'deaded' in almost every episode.
71  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Looking for Ideas for multiple conditions / Best way to proceed. on: August 24, 2014, 08:21:28 pm
I want to:
1) watch the input of the level switch ( if low Green LED is on)
2)when level switch goes high, A)  Turn on an output for the motor (For a specified amount of time like 10 minutes)
                                                              B) turn off Green LED
3)after time has passed, turn off motor
4) Check Level switch again, if Still high A) Sound an alarm
                                                                              B) Do not allow Pump to turn back on until Alarm is acknowledged(See other ideas)
                                                                              C) Turn on Red LED 

Thats about it.
You've virtually written your program there.
Look up State Machine and the Switch-Case construct in the Learning pages of this site.
I'd define your states as:
1) if level switch indicates low, green LED on, else change to state 2.
2)Start timer and turn on motor, turn off green LED change to state 3
 (you may want to turn on a different LED to indicate the motor is on)
3)If time is up turn off motor ( and motor indicator LED) change to state 4
4)If level switch indicates low, change to state 1,  else sound alarm and turn on red LED, change to state 5
5)if alarm is acknowledged, silence alarm...What then?

72  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Another multiples LEDs blinking question on: August 24, 2014, 07:31:33 pm
So far... I'm not unhappy with what I've found (sketch below) and thanks to all of you for pointing me out where I should looking for. Array seems to be the solution.  It still abstract tho ...
Now, I like this sequence I've got but is it possible to add another sequence following this one and make them in loop ?
Only if you get rid of the delay()s.
I was hoping that copied the same code with different values would work but it didn't !
Any help would be appreciated.
But you haven't paid any attention to the help you've already been given.
Get rid of the delay()s and use the 'blink without delay' method instead. That's the ONLY way to achieve what you want.
73  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to power the Arduino from a UK light switch on: August 24, 2014, 07:10:28 pm
All the circuits, including the lighting, in my house run through a leakage breaker in the fuse box. Damned annoying if it tripped after dark, until I installed a battery emergency lighting system.
That is precicely the reason that lighting circuits should be left off the circuit breaker , as should freezers and grannies iron lung be fed seperatley.
How does one do that when the  circuit breaker is part of the fusebox main switch, the one that's connected directly to the Supply Company's meter?
Anyway, I'd sooner the food in the freezer defrosted than someone was electrocuted.  The food can be replaced, people can't.
Granny no longer needs an iron lung as she's 6ft under.  smiley-cry
74  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Closing external circuits (Xbox one controllers) on: August 24, 2014, 06:49:27 pm

I had found a few resource that said I would need an optocoupler (which Im still not 100% of what its used/required for). - but for the sake of space if it can be avoided that would be cool.
An optocoupler, also known as an optoisolator, is a device with a LED and phototransistor inside. These are completely electrically isolated, the only 'connection' between them is the light.  When the LED is on, the phototransistor conducts. They are fairly small, the surface mount type are tiny.
75  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: chess on an arduino uno on: August 24, 2014, 06:09:04 pm
Would the Arduino be required to physically move the pieces around the board or just notify a human what move it wants to make?
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