Hi!
Basically my scheme looks like this
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/6505/ds13070sm4.gif
with the pullup resistors.

During the last hour, things started to work. Looks like...
I have the system in test because is running by one hour, and I am continuosly detaching the current and keep working.

I have added an electrolitic capacitor, 10uF 25v beetween the vcc and gnd of the ds1307 and now looks like working. Don't know exactly WHY, by the way. I tested just because I was without any other idea, and looks like a solution. (Well, if this keep working)

Can't understand why...

I have tried everything and I can't understand this. I have a ds1307 rtc, the right crystal and a battery. Everything apparently works fine.

When I try the battery, to see if everything works,  I detach the VCC cable from the pin8 on the ds1307 and when I attach it again I see that the battery works, because the time is exact.

Looks like ok BUT.. When I detach the +5 cable from the arduino (meaning that breaks the connection with pin 8 VCC, 5 SDA,6 SCL) and I attach it again, most of the times (but not every time) the RTC hangs and show always the time when i gave again the +5. (Looks like hanging in the exact moment that I put the +5)

I am working on this from many hours, without understanding why it stop working...

Thank you for help!

I haven't tried the leds from seed studio, but I had this problem with RGB leds when there was not enaugh power. Try to give more power to the led!

FANTASTIC!!!
I like it a lot!
Do you have extra pics of the work in progress??
Fede

Can I ask you a thing about the futaba s3003? With a bit of try and error I ended that they go, in microseconds, from 500 to 2400. Have you ever tried?

Super super super cool. You are great!

Damn your motos are COOL. Mine are http://www.servocity.com/html/s3003_servo_standard.html, way more economical! I was reading this post with my brother that helps me with C code and he said "now i understand why his movements are so smooth and ours are not!" :-)

by the way, I am noticing that those s3003 servos have some jitter by thefault, this is driving me crazy because sometimes I don't understand if it's our code or it's the servo. They are ok only for testing or for limited applications...

I started to experiment because I have seen that there are not so many howto's about accelerometers and I have found that somethimes they are wrong too  : Right now I am working on the same thing but with less error in reading, hopefully less jitter and so on. Code is starting to be huge  :o
But I like that turret and could be cool on my project too. In truth I don't have any final usage, I'd wish to go into robotics but for the projects I like servos are way expensive so I was using this as a training...

Hi, nice work I like it a lot, I never used such a good structure to drive my motors During the last test with my accelerometer I shot this video

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpz7k-Sqz6s[/media]

so you can see how cool your is
I am planning to shoot another video of the same work but working with writeMicroseconds because I can have a smoother movement. I have a couple of futaba s3003 servo. With a bit of trial and error I have decided that those motors start from 500ms till 2400ms, centered in 1450, but I could be wrong. The only method I know is to try, verify and try again.

When moving in degrees or microseconds you can slow the servos by putting a delay between every step. I think that you can use up to 15milliseconds if you move in degrees or up to 2 in microseconds, but those values depens from motor to motor.

Fede

ps: wich motors / servos do you use?

video video !!

Looks like he posted in both languages!

A picture?

Ah, I get it now. It's because the 595 are just enaugh to drive the 74141, wich is right for driving ciphers from 0 to 9. But if you use the 4017 you have two spare pins for driving the point with a transistor.

I hope not to be wrong but if you have two points on each tube and if you drive two 74141 with one 4017 you can light up just one point for each tube, or not?

As I am a bit confused, would it be the same to use 74hc595 instead of the 4017?

Nixie tubes are so cool  8-) I want a couple too  :