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1066  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: measuring ON time and off Time of PWM pulse on: February 21, 2014, 09:29:31 am
What range of on and off times?
1067  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Labeling a Front Panel on: February 20, 2014, 07:59:13 pm
Very good point.
1068  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Labeling a Front Panel on: February 20, 2014, 05:31:43 pm
Nicely done!

I find CorelDraw a powerful program to do things like this. I save a lot of money on it by staying a version or two behind. I used v8 for quite a long time, now I have X3.
1069  Community / Bar Sport / Re: whats with the attitude on: February 20, 2014, 05:02:23 pm
Being on the internet means you have to cultivate a bit of a thick-skin, water-off-a-duck's-back attitude. However, if someone disagrees with you, going right to insults instead of countering their points is the wrong way to respond.

GoForSmoke, I can't really step in when I'm the target. In most other cases I've seen where it is simple name-calling, it is a moderator who is the target, so they handle it as they see fit.

I think we've got a lot higher percentage of non-NTs than the general populace, so some measure of tolerance is required. As SirNickity says, balance quirks against contributions. Just don't let yourself use that as a license to be an a-hole yourself. As one recent poster used his Asperger's as an excuse to be rude and nearly impossible to get along with.
1070  Community / Bar Sport / Re: whats with the attitude on: February 20, 2014, 04:04:50 pm
Quote
I have yet to see any time someone get abusive without being called on it and remedies taken but then I haven't read most of the threads and you seem to have seen what I have not.

I've seen and experienced name-calling, although not from any moderators, where no action was taken by anyone but the target of the name-calling.
1071  Topics / Education and Teaching / Re: New tutorial - the AREF pin on: February 20, 2014, 03:05:53 pm
Oh, and I wanted to say: Nice!

http://tronixstuff.com/2013/07/02/tutorial-arduino-and-the-ti-ads1110-16-bit-adc/

Also, if you want to know what the internal reference voltage actually is, you can measure it. When you have selected the internal reference (and I think you must do at least one analogRead), then you can just put a DMM on the Aref pin.
1072  Topics / Education and Teaching / Re: New tutorial - the AREF pin on: February 20, 2014, 03:02:46 pm
I find it distressing that they ignored Atmel's recommendation of an RC decoupling network when bringing Vcc to the AVcc pin. AVcc is the power supply to the ADC converter chip, not to be confused with Aref. Both should have bypass capacitors directly from the pin to ground to reduce noise in the ADC circuits.

The Freeduino has an empty spot to insert an 0603 chip capacitor for bypass on the AVcc pin, but no space for a series resistor as suggested by Atmel.
1073  Topics / Education and Teaching / Re: Recommend Book and Platform to teach from.... on: February 20, 2014, 02:54:35 pm
Personally, I like the Nano, or some other Arduino variant that can plug into a protoboard. You can't plug a shield right into it, but it is a lot easier to use with custom circuits. Get a large, long protoboard to go with it.
1074  Topics / Education and Teaching / Re: Recommend Book and Platform to teach from.... on: February 20, 2014, 02:51:38 pm
Take a look at the example sketches "Blink Without Delay" and "Debounce" that come with the Arduino IDE. Essentially, the program keeps track of how long it has been since a given input or output has changed state, and uses that to determine if it is time to switch an output, or to debounce an input.
1075  Topics / Education and Teaching / Re: Recommend Book and Platform to teach from.... on: February 20, 2014, 02:43:33 pm
Simon Monk's books are good.

I've reviewed a few beginning Arduino books, and I find most of them suffer from the same fault- they start with the Blink sketch and its use of delay(), and then try to teach everything using delay(). You then end up with a program that is not scalable to more events,  because nearly everything stops during a delay() event.
1076  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Controlling the rotation of brushless motor by changing polarity on: February 20, 2014, 10:24:09 am
You only need one bridge, and two diodes. Like this:

http://www.digikey.com/schemeit/#o18

No other use for bridge rectifiers? What about double balanced mixers?

At the power input, if the top pin is positive, then the Orange wire is at the same voltage as the Black wire. If the bottom power input pin is positive, then the Orange wire is at the same voltage as the Red wire.

The bridge rectifier should be rated to at least 2x the stall current of the motor. The two diodes in antiparallel can be 1N4001 or other 1A rectifier.
1077  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Programming Piezo Vibration Sensor on: February 20, 2014, 10:09:41 am
Good link.
1078  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: A little bit of code help needed *Warning I'm A Noob* on: February 20, 2014, 12:36:11 am
Um... and you need to use PWM to dim the LEDs. Which means you'll need to use analog pins and use analogWrite() to output to the LEDs.

Look in the third Example folder, Communication, for the sketch "Dimmer".
1079  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: A little bit of code help needed *Warning I'm A Noob* on: February 20, 2014, 12:26:27 am
You have to hit the "preview" button to see all the fancy formatting buttons like the code # button.

Forget that stupid "Blink" sketch. This is why I hate that they start teaching us newbies to use "delay()". Without using something like interrupts, you can't easily fade an LED during a delay().

Go into the second Examples folder, Digital, and open "Blink Without Delay".

There is a mistake in there.... Change this:

Code:
long previousMillis = 0;        // will store last time LED was updated

Into this:

Code:
unsigned long previousMillis = 0;        // will store last time LED was updated

Now what happens:

millis() is a timer that starts counting milliseconds since the Arduino was last reset. That little fix above makes it so it keeps working even when it rolls over. The variable "interval" sets the length in milliseconds between turning the LED on or off.

You'll want to modify this to your purposes. It appears you want the white LED on for 15 hours, and the blue LED on for 9 hours. Easiest but not the most convenient way to set this for a start time is to have it begin when you reset the Arduino, and just reset it when you want the white LED to start.

I've given you a start. It is late, and I am tired, and I am also a newbie at programming Arduinos.

1080  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: What's this component? on: February 20, 2014, 12:04:40 am
Polarity? Or is that a ceramic cap?
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