Solder "Slugs" or pellets are not cheap either (£27 from amazon), I guess you could make your own by melting a load of solder into a small pot.
Yes, but it takes very little. I wad up non-resin solder, and melt it in a cup made of tin foil. VERY cheap. And it takes very little. A small slug (1" diameter) will last a few months if you build alot.
I have a simple solution, and it does not involve buying the expensive Toner Transfer paper that is advertised. Here are the key steps:
1. You must have a good laser printer. Cheap ones can make the grade. I like my Samsung ML-2164 ($30 at Best Buy). If the printer has a setting for "darkness", buy it! 2. Use thick glossy magazine paper to print on. (IT WORKS BETTER than toner transfer paper). 3. Heat up the board with an iron before applying the printed toner (it will stick immediately) 4. iron HARD and everywhere with the tip for about 2 minutes. 5. Soak in water an peal off the paper 6. wash the remainder off with "Windex". 7. Tin the back as my instruction above. 8. Have fun, and if you have a failure, no money lost! (except for that centerfold playboy you used for printer paper).
Yes, solder paste works great, but this is a method for those who don't want to buy solder paste which is expensive and has a shelf life. I am just sharing some experiences for those who want to prototype on a dime. Tinnit works even better, but for the hobby builder, the price is a bit steep.
I've had boards made professionally, I've done the photo-resist method, I've even made massive circuits on Vero Board ... etc.
Here's my method with prices,
1. Cheap Samsung monotone Laser Printer - $30 (I have found Samsung gives the option of darker toner) 2. Circuit Boards from China - $12 for (10) 4" x 6" boards (be careful, alot of vendors send pitted cheap crap). 3. White Vinegar - $1 4. Hydrogen Peroxide - $3 5. Solder - Hell, I don't know, I have a crap load.
A note on the printer. I had both a Brother and a Samsung, and destroyed the Brother for parts. I found more parts than the printer was worth.
I have found another method for "tinning" the circuit board after etching. Here are the steps:
1. Clean board thoroughly 2. Brush flux on the copper surface 3. Using a file and a "solder slug", file a small layer of solder dust onto the board 4. With your soldering iron on high setting, rake it across the board
This leaves a very thin layer of solder on the entire copper surface. this protects the board from oxidizing, and makes soldering the components easier. It also builds up thickness, which I'm sure enables the traces to handle higher currents?
Plus it's a heck of alot cheaper than tinning solution, or electroplating.
I found that if you have alot of copper, it takes a LONG TIME. But, if you have a circuit design with a ground plan, i.e., not much copper to etch, it will work pretty darned fast. You have to keep wiping the "residue" off the top, but if your scared of dealing with Ferric Chloride (STAIN), or Muriatic acid, then this is the way to go.
I found this out on youtube today, and thought I'd give it a try. The ingredients for the etching solution are White Vinegar, Hydrogen Peroxide (I used a 6% from the drug store) and Salt. It takes a while, but it gave GREAT RESULTS. Here's a pic of an arduino controlled (stand alone) main board for a pickup winder I'm building again (Just moved out of country).
Very nice! I would like to know what Hammond enclosure it is. I need a similar box for a project I'm working on (headphone distribution amp) and this would definitely fit the bill if they made one a little wider but same height.
I have been running one of these to turn my spindle on and off for my CNC Router. I have been running it for 4 years with no issue. Control voltage (5V) on input and 120 AC on the output. Straight forward connection.
Just thought I'd give you some real world assurance. Also, check e-bay. Depending on where you live, you can get them much cheaper.
Technically, you could get by with a small signal diode like a 1N4148 and be just fine.
A 1N4148 will be under-rated. According to the datasheet, and part #, the solenoid has a DC resistance of 4.5 ohms. With 5 volts, it will draw 1.1 amps. A 1N4148 is only rated for 200mA continuous with a 450mA surge rating. I would stick with the 1N4001.