Take a look at this:

http://bleaklow.com/2012/12/02/driving_the_ws2811_at_800khz_with_a_16mhz_avr.html

The fact that you cannot find information about these methods on the internet should answer your question.  Do you REALLY think that something that actually WORKED would not be all over the internet?

I don't see where Bob is recommending a cheap knockoff of a Hakko, I see him telling people that HAKKO irons last a long time.  The knockoff's are NOT Hakko's and will NOT last like a Hakko.  You are just throwing away your money buying a something that LOOKS like a Hakko instead of buying an actual Hakko.   Not even a real Hakko 936 performs as well as the FX-888, and since the 936 is no longer made by Hakko, the best that you can do is buy a cheap knockoff.

With all the complaints on here about people buying knockoff Arduino's, I'm rather surprised to see someone advocating purchasing a knockoff soldering station.

Go with the Hakko FX-888. It's worth every penny!  I have never used a finer soldering station in my life.  Rapid heat up, great heat retention.  The FX-888 will make soldering a totally worry-free, hassle-free experience.  Avoid ALL the Hakko imitations.  The FX-888 performs far in excess of it's price point.  Nothing cheaper, and nothing at less than twice the price, will perform at even half the level of the FX-888.

Take a look at this post http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,100757.0.html

The DHT22 has a maximum .5 Hz sampling rate - once every two seconds.  Nothing in the library can change that.

The OP not only didn't post the code, he didn't even post a link to the code - he posted a link to an article that didn't even post a link to the code until someone asked for it in comment 32 out of 36.  I think it's a grave disservice to the people on this board that freely give their time to do the OP's work and post either the code, or a link the code for him as you did, and then expect help.  Perhaps next once of us should just catch a flight to the OP's house, buy all the components that he needs, wire it all up for him, and then fly ourselves back home.

The OP has provided NOTHING necessary to even BEGIN to answer the questions that he has not even asked yet.  The OP's contribution to this thread has been ZERO.  When he was asked about the code, he simply referred back to same article that he originally mentioned - STILL refusing to even post a link to the actual code.   

The OP deserves NOTHING from this forum until he can at least form a question and post the code that he is referring to.

The link to the code was in the 4th comment from the END of the article comments.  Even though I found the link for the code, I refuse to download it to help this person.  Come on, OP, put SOME EFFORT into asking for our help.  We WILL NOT do all the work for you.  Get the code, post it here, then ask your questions.

I have been very successful at soldering bundles of ATX wires with my Hakko FX-888, but if I were planning on soldering them frequently, I would still prefer a soldering gun.

For starters, the rainbowduino that you linked to is NOT the same as the colorduino, and does not use the same libraries as the colorduino.
If you actually have the rainbowduino, there is lots of great info here http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/Rainbowduino_v3.0

As for help getting it to work, a great place to start would be to post the code that you are using with your rainbowduino.  Click the # symbol in the menu, and paste your code between the code tags.

No single soldering iron is going to work for both large masses of wires such as from the ATX power supply as well as SMT work.  For the large masses of wires, I recommend a soldering gun such as one of the Weller guns.  For SMT work, you would be much better off with a hot air rework station such as a WEP 858D+

http://www.amazon.com/858D-Station-Soldering-Display-Nozzles/dp/B009PPRJHS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2X00B9RLPPQRA&coliid=I24ICZKG1NEEQU

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-D550PK-120-volt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B00002N7S1/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1362090290&sr=1-1&keywords=weller+soldering+gun

I presume that you are referring to pin 5 EN - the output ENable pin.  The square wave that you see in the datasheet is simply referring to a PWM input on that pin to provide dimming control.  The EN pin is totally optional unless you plan to use PWM for dimming of the output.  In your case, I believe that you would connect the EN pin to the PWM output pin on your Arduino to vary the brightness of the LED.

Seeing as this is being reported on two different Lenovo laptops, I suspect a bad system-level driver common to Lenovo.  Perhaps try making sure that all the system-level drivers are up to date.  Pay particular attention to chipset/motherboard drivers.

This is the "Project Guidance" section, so if I picked the wrong band to mess with jamming to learn from then tell me. Dont jump on my case because you dont know US laws or how the country's laws work.

A lot of you are more bent out of shape on RF bands than realizing that some home made circuit's can also outputting interference. How many of you test every circuit you build? 5% of the people on this forum actually test for that, or less?
If the FCC went around checking interference they would find appliances shorting out in homes producing interference. Your PC is one program away from being a jammer, yes its that easy!

Yes they know I have a brass set and the one is bigger then the other two.

I'll tell you what S_Flex, I DO work for the FCC as an engineer.  You think I don't know the FCC regulations?  Here's a list of our field offices. http://transition.fcc.gov/eb/rfo/FieldPhone.html I DARE you to call any one of them and tell them that your little jamming scheme is LEGAL, give them your address, and DEFY them to do something about it. 

Since I KNOW that you only "have a brass set" while you are hiding behind what you THINK is the anonymity of a forum posting and would never actually call us, for my part, I'll initiate the process to have our Special Counsel for the Spectrum Enforcement Division get your IP address from the forum moderators, use that to get your REAL name and address from your ISP, and start an investigation based upon your PUBLIC admission regarding carrying out a pre-meditated jamming operation with full knowledge that your actions are both harmful to radio communications and illegal.

I am sick of you coming on this forum and telling the good people of this forum that DO KNOW the FCC regulations, that they are wrong and engaging in your pathetic little saber-rattling tirade of superiority.

Stop wasting your time folks.  Those of us that hold several FCC licenses, myself being Amateur Extra Class as well as GROL+RADAR, as well as being a COLEM and VEC, obviously know nothing about communications regulations and the OP is the world expert on all things communications related.

FCC not enforcing jamming regulations?

http://www.fcc.gov/document/fcc-cites-online-retailers-marketing-illegal-jamming-devices  http://urgentcomm.com/policy_and_law/news/fcc-cell-jamming-enforcement-20111013  http://www.marcus-spectrum.com/Blog/files/EBjammerenf.html

Stick those in your "wiki"

As for RFID devices, the FCC regulates the RF part of the device.  They have nothing to do with whether or not someone can implant an RFID device in the human body.

The ISM bands ARE regulated under part 15 of the FCC regulations.   In the early 1990's the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) allowed using three of the ISM bands for unlicensed communication equipment.  These three ISM bands are:

902 to 928 MHz
2.400 to 2.4835 GHz
5.725 to 5.875 GHz

In the United States the use of these bands for communication purposes is regulated by part 15 of the FCC rules.  These regulations cover such things as maximum transmitter input power for mobile as well as point-to-point communications.