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31  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: 240VAC, splitting up on: February 02, 2012, 10:06:49 pm
I've already got the receptacles. I need distribution blocks.
32  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: Swagelok valve actuator on: February 02, 2012, 10:04:24 pm
I'm going to have to sell my first born if I go with the swagelok solution. Looking for something that doesn't break the bank.
33  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Swagelok valve actuator on: February 02, 2012, 08:21:31 pm
I've got some swagelok valves I'm looking to control with actuators. Each valve has multiple output positions. Any suggestions on how to approach automating these valves?
34  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: 240VAC, splitting up on: February 02, 2012, 08:09:56 pm
As of yet, I do not have the distribution terminals. I am very open to suggestions. I've been looking at mouser and grainger for something that will work, but haven't found anything that jumps out at me as being an obvious choice.
35  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: 240VAC, splitting up on: February 02, 2012, 08:04:44 pm
These are the power supplies:
It looks like they do support 208/240, in which case I should wire each with h1/h2/ground instead of h1/neutral/ground and h2/neutral/ground?
36  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: 240VAC, splitting up on: February 02, 2012, 07:49:14 pm
I was going with a 4 prong plug and receptacle, so the wires are h1, h2, neutral, and ground. That is the input to the control box. From here, I was going to wire to separate h1, h2, neutral, and ground distribution terminals (I believe you termed them a bus).
Since the receptacle is rated for 50 amps, and the max current I would pull if everything is on at once is 43.4 amps, I think I'm within the limits of what is acceptable, right?

From these distribution terminals:
h1, neutral, and ground > pump one (relay on h1 to 15 amp, 3 prong, standard 120v receptacle)
h2, neutral and ground > pump two (relay on h2 to 15 amp, 3 prong, standard 120v receptacle)
h1, h2, ground > heating element 1 (relay on h1, relay on h2 to 30 amp, 3 prong dryer receptacle)
h1, h2, ground > heating element 2 (relay h1, relay on h2 to 30 amp, 3 prong dryer receptacle)
h1, neutral, and ground > arduino power supply
h2, neutral and ground > actuator power supply

Does that look right? I would rather feed the box once, but will defer to experience if what I'm looking to do isn't going to work the way I anticipated. I want to go with two relays for each heating element so that when power is cut off, it is really cut off. If the arduino is programmed to send a signal to shut off both relays to a heating element, I assume this has to be done on separate pins.
37  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: 240VAC, splitting up on: February 02, 2012, 04:54:16 pm
United states. I accidentally left out that one power supply will be converting to 12VDC 1.8 amp. I plan on using this for the arduino. The other power supply will be 24VDC for the actuators. I'm thinking this will be closer to a 1 amp draw. Retrolefty, you got it right, I'm attempting to balance the load as best as possible. The pumps will only draw about an amp each, but for the most part aren't going to be operated at the same time. The arduino is unlikely to draw anything close to 1.8 amps, but that's what mouser electronics has that looks to fit the bill. Perhaps arduino and 1 pump on h1, actuators and other pump on h2? How much wiggle room do I have in balancing the load?

I'm assuming I can use the same ground for the 240VAC and the 120VAC, is that correct? Also, neutral wires should be able to use the same distributor block, regardless if they feed to a 120VAC or 240VAC receptacle, right?
38  Using Arduino / General Electronics / 240VAC, splitting up on: February 02, 2012, 04:13:58 pm
I've got a control box I'm building and looking for a good way to take 240VAC to two 240VAC heating elements, two 120VAC pumps, and two power supply units for the arduino and valve actuators. I was thinking about using a separate power distribution block for hot1, hot2, neutral, and ground wires. That should allow me to wire up the heating elements just fine, but I'm not sure how to approach wiring up the pumps or the switching power supplies from those blocks. One power supply will be converting  Each pump will be on it's own side of a standard 3-prong 120v outlet (tab pulled so they can be wired independently) Should I take hot1 to feed one pump while taking hot2 to feed the other?  Or should I take hot1 to both, and take hot2 to the power supply units?
39  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 31, 2012, 01:58:55 am
I'm using Opto 22's 45 amp SSRs, along with their heatsinks. I spoke with an engineer at opto and SSRs won't be working very hard, and the heatsinks will be more than enough. A little overkill, but I figure to go with something that is capable of around double the draw of the each heating element. I'm using 6 AWG wire (8 AWG for the ground) to bring juice to the control box.The receptacle to bring juice to the box can handle 50 amps and is 4 prong (2 hot, 1 ground, 1 neutral) I was planning on wiring each hot leg to it's own block for distribution with 6 AWG. Since each hot leg is 120 VAC, I should have two separate 120 VAC blocks. And then my tendency to add extra things gets in the way of me visualizing how the layout will work.

From one of the blocks, I wanted use 10 AWG to run power into a transformer/rectifier/smother/regulator to send 9V DC up the conduit to the arduino/display box. Looking on grainger and McMaster Carr, it appears that wiring up another 120VAC plug inside the box and plugging in a simple 2 prong power supply would be much much cheaper. Shame, because it doesn't really seem like an elegant solution.

I digress.

I've been thinking about incorporating some sort of emergency off switch that, if hit, would cut off the power to the heating elements and pumps (but not the arduino). Of course, I was planning on having high and low voltages in separate boxes, and to my knowledge there isn't an emergency off switch that would run on low voltage DC and be able to send a signal down the 6 feet of conduit to a pretty hefty solid state relay to cut off power to everything but the arduino. Even if I were to use such a switch, would a SSR (even one that could handle, say 50 amps) be reliable enough for this application?

Back on topic now, so I would have two separate 120VAC distribution blocks... Hook up an SSR to one, with the send going to a hot leg of the receptacle for the heating element. Then the other wire feeding the other hot leg of the receptacle would go to the other 120VAC distribution block, right? But then the element is always live, unless I added a second SSR to this hot leg coming from the other terminal block.

I'm curious what you all have to say.
40  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 30, 2012, 04:15:41 pm
Still looking for advice on actuators for the swagelok valves...

In addition, I've started the process of building the box (actually just drilling holes for the receptacles). What I've got are holes for power to the box, the two heating elements, and the 115v standard 3 prong outlet. Holes are tapped for 6-32 screws to hold the receptacles in place.
Now I'm at a point where I'm considering the next steps in the build. Since the heating elements are 240VAC, I'm thinking I need 2 SSRs for each element. Is that correct? Also, with 5500w and 3000w heating elements, I was planning on having a common terminal block for each hot wire. Would a 30 amp rated block be sufficient? Then wire from the block to the SSRs?
I've also decided on a 2nd box so the high voltage and low voltage components are seperated. What are my options for stepping the power down from 240 to 115 to power the pumps and also from 115 to 9v for the arduino?
Pointers would be greatly appreciated!
41  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 25, 2012, 02:08:36 am

Thanks for the reply. I used to live in Iowa and had a great time descending upon Dubuque for RAGBRAI a couple years back.
Yes, Swagelok valves are pretty intense, but I'm going to be sending liquid at 150+ degrees, so I wanted to go with something that wouldn't involve getting scalded. 

I'm not looking to regulate the flow at the swageloks. I'm not sure I need feedback on the flow going through the valve. If the valve is positioned correctly, there will be flow. Since wort is a low viscosity liquid, it will be turbulent flow. If it were high viscosity, and the flow were larimer I could see potential issues with no flow, in which case what you suggested might make sense.

I would like to regulate flow at the ball valve (not a swagelok, but fitted with a NPT to compression fitting) going into the boil kettle. It doesn't need to be "proportional" in a strict sense, it just needs to be adjustable so that I can match the rate at which water is being added from the HLT to the mash tun. Most everything on the setup can be done with the march ac-5d-md pump, which I'll be using to draw wort off the mash tun to the boil kettle. I'll be using a smaller pump (the march 809) to enter the coil in my heat exchanger so that the sparge water is a precise temperature. The problem here is that the water will be going through a 75 foot coil, and that is a pretty significant pressure head to overcome and have good flow. So I'll need to adjust the output of the stronger pump to match the weaker flow of the smaller pump. The only other part in which I anticipate needing to regulate any flow would be the plate chiller out. This seems like it would be pretty simple, as I'm looking to get the wort from the kettle cooled down to pitching temp. A thermocouple and relatively inexpensive solenoid controlled valve should do just fine. If the temp is too high, the valve could close a little. Remember, Since this will have gone through the plate chiller, I'm not worried about getting scalded so swagelok isn't necessary.

With all that said, I'm looking to take the handles off the swageloks and replace them with an actuator. Much of the design is oh hold because I don't know what I need in terms of space in my control box, nor voltage to control this mystery actuator. I know I'm going to be stepping down from 240vac to 9v for the arduino and switching to DC, but I don't know if I will be stepping down to another voltage (say 24) or if that voltage will need to be DC or AC.
42  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 24, 2012, 10:10:22 pm
California. Same setup as you. Ultimately, whatever is used will be a servomechanism, but i'm not going with a hobby servo from radioshack if that is what you were suggesting.

 I've been looking at the Belimo actuators. The LU24A is electric and does 360 degree rotation. If I am understanding correctly, there is an angle of rotation limiter that could be used to set the angle of rotation to 90 degrees I could simply advance the actuator or send it back to achieve the desired output of the valves. Is that correct? Anybody used one of these? Seems like a pretty simple way to get around needing feedback on where the valve is. I would just need to incorporate the correct advance or retract cycle for each step.

 It appears they are made for air control dampers, but I would imagine it could be converted to work with the swagelok valves (despite violating Belimo's rather archaic instructions that it isn't allowed to be used outside of its specified field of application nor are interfaces not expressly envisaged by Belimo to be made)

43  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 24, 2012, 07:37:39 pm
Thanks for the reply. I do have 120v where I live, but I'll be hooking the whole setup to 240v since the heating elements are 240v.

As far as the off the shelf 120v power supply, I don't really want to go with that option since the box will have 240v coming into it. Since I'm going to need to step that down anyway, I figure I might as well try to get it to the 9v DC for the arduino. It seems like a more elegant solution than stepping down to 120v and wiring up the off the shelf power supply. I looked at the tech sheet and it appears the pump will run from 240v, in which case I wouldn't need to step down to 120v at all. I would just need to wire up a different plug.

Since I'm not sure what type of actuator I'll be using, I don't really know what type of step down I would need for those. I've been looking, but have not found something that looks like it will fit the bill. Many of the actuators I've found don't seem to meet the requirement that I have a full 360 degrees to work with. Most are only 1/4 turn. The valves are swageloks (specifically the ss-45xs8 and the ss-45zf8-nd) There does not seem to be extensive documentation on people using the arduino to control valves such as these. Hopefully we can change that.

44  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 24, 2012, 03:25:33 pm
After much searching, I seem to have found a site that has more reasonable actuators. -- Now I just need to figure out what will work. Since I've got valves that have positions for multiple outputs, I'm going to need to be very precise in where the actuator takes the valve to. It seems I need a proportional actuator. Not sure what to go with.
45  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Electrical questions +servos/actuators. on: January 22, 2012, 11:50:47 pm
Hello all,

I'm in the planning stages to build a box housing controls for a home brewery and would like to know if anyone can wrap my head around some things. I need recommendations on a transformer to take the 240v ac coming into the box and convert it to 9v dc, 1 amp for the arduino. I would like to use a terminal block so the 240v can be used on 3 separate 240v ac heating elements. The heating elements are 5500w, 3000w, and 1000w. All told, the heating elements will need to be on at least a 40 amp circuit breaker. I figure with all the bells and whistles I'm going to want a 50 amp circuit breaker. I am also needing to power a 120v pump (the march ac-5d-md). I believe the pump needs about 2 amps.

Any recommendations on what to use/engineering concerns would be appreciated. I'm a little concerned about heat within the box if I've got that much juice flowing through it. (it is a 16x16x8 plastic box)

 I'll be using the arduino to act as a PID, switching relays to turn the heating elements and as a control to turn the pump on and off as it also controls actuators for the valves.

I'm not yet sure what to use to control the swagelok valves, so any reccomendations on servos/actuators would also be appreciated.
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