Hi all,

I just gambled with my new lolshield. The usual demos ran fine; then I wanted to display some text, but the shield remained dark. So I stripped down the code to display only one letter:

Code:

#include "Charliplexing.h"
#include "Font.h"
#include "Arduino.h"

void setup ()
{
    LedSign::Init ();
}

void loop ()
{
    LedSign::Clear ();
    delay (500);
    LedSign::Set (4, 4, true);
    delay (500);
    Font::Draw ('A', 0, 0);
    delay (500);
}

I expected that the letter 'A' blinks, but again the shield remained dark. If I delete the Font::Draw command, then the LED at (4,4) blinks as expected.

What am I missing here? (BTW: I'm using the IDE 1.0.1)

best regards
Andreas

Many thanks for all your replies! I think I will try a PIR or a photoresistor. Because I have tons of other things to do before christmas I move this project to the next year. Perhaps a rabbit with red glowing eyes for easter (in Germany the "easter rabbit" hides chocolate for the children on easter morning  ).

best regards and merry christmas
Andreas

Hi *,

OK - for clarification (sorry, it seems that my english got a little bit rusty )

I have attached an image of our typical office door (hope it works from my tablet  ) You can see the hallway through the window. I will put the device (perhaps a sort of star or snowflake with 24 LEDs or so) onto the inside of the window. If a colleague walks down the hallway the LEDs shall start blinking (this is the easy part, I've prepared such a thing with shiftregisters). But alas I cannot install anything on the other side of the hallway (that would lead to trouble with the boss :-().

I've thought about a camera, but it seems a little overkill for this little project.

thanks to all and best regards
Andreas

Hi *,

for a christmas project I need some advice. (OK - christmas 2013 - it's too late for this year  ) Some background: in our office we have small windows next to the doors, as high as the door and 25 cm wide. I want to create some blinking stuff, which shall start, when someone passes. An ultrasonic sensor (srf04 or so) will not work, but what's about an IR sensor? Does it work through glass?

best regards
Andreas

Insert an additional delimiter, e.g.
 
D,368,175,D,367,175,D,368,175,D,368,175,D,368,175,D,368,175,
Etc.

best regards
Andreas

It will handle - the method begin () is your friend. 

best regards
Andreas

How did you take the photos (without burning your eyes  )

I've tried to see the eclipse in germany in 1999, but I got wet - rainy, clouds, and no sun  )

best regards
Andreas

But what is byte j? Are you creating and naming a byte with that declaration or is byte j something that already exists that you are calling upon?  

Look here?

Code:

Description

A byte stores an 8-bit unsigned number, from 0 to 255.

It's a good idea to look into the reference from time to time  

This construction declares a variable named "j", which can hold values between 0 and 255 (incl.).

best regards
Andreas

In volume 2 of "Donald E. Knuth, The Art of Computer Programming" is a whole chapter about creating random numbers. Perhaps this will help you.

best regards
Andreas

I've created the version 2 of my evil spider by replacing the LED in the head with two LEDs in the eyes. You can see a video, the source code and two photos on my blog. I didn't want to put the close-up photos here, where perhaps arachnophobic people stumble over them  (the photos are at the end of the post, so you can see the video and the source code without being too feared).

best regards
Andreas

I will post the pictures of the result this evening in my little blog.

And here they are: http://danimathblog.blogspot.de/2012/04/redfly-wifi-shield.html

best regards
Andreas

Moin James,

("moin" is is a usual greeting in the northern part of germany and means "good day"  )

I like to put the header pins into a breadboard and then put the board on top of that.  Solder a single pin to orient the board and pins to 90°.  After that I solder every other pin taking 10-15 seconds between pin to allow them to cool and keep the breadboard from getting too much heat.

This way is not possible here, because the pins have to be put through the shield and soldered on the other side - so this way I had to solder between breadboard and shield. Meanwhile I did it (with trembling fingers  ) and it worked quite well. I will post the pictures of the result this evening in my little blog.

That's one way.  You can also use a shield made to be cut up like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Add-Ohms-Arduino-Wuzzler-Shield/dp/B007APUR3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335556644&sr=8-1

Exactly what I looked for! Thanks for link!

best regards
Andreas

Nur so'n Schuss ins Blaue: versorgst Du das Ganze nur über USB mit Strom, oder hast Du 'ne externe Stromversorgung? Ich hatte so einen Effekt mal, weil das ganze angeschlossen Zeugs zu viel Strom gezogen hat, und dann die Spannung zusammengebrochen ist. USB liefert nicht sooo viel.

viele Grüße
Andreas

Hi Arduinoiers,

hope this is the correct sub-forum, but this deals roughly about installation (I hope).

I've just got a Watterott Redfly shield, and I'm eager to start with it. But before I have to solder the pins. Do you have any advice how to do this, so that the shield fits afterwards onto the arduino? I'm a little afraid of askew pins (big hands, smoker, coffee ).

And the general question is: what do you do, if you use shields with pin conflicts? E.g. PWM/3 seems to be a popular pin on many shields. So do you change shields with knife and soldering iron? Or is there any other magic?

Cordialità/best regards/cordialement/viele Grüße
Andreas

Something like this http://luckylarry.co.uk/arduino-projects/arduino-processing-make-a-radar-screen-to-visualise-sensor-data-from-srf-05-part-1-setting-up-the-circuit-and-outputting-values/?