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16  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 14, 2013, 09:57:41 pm
Grounding the gate changes nothing.
There is no limiting resistor cause its a 12V LED. Its one of those you can swap with
the 12V halogen lamps in halogen systems: http://www.amazon.de/ersetzt-35Watt-Halogen-warmes-Kelvin/dp/B0076J5AHG/
They are really bright like 35Watt normal lamps and make a nice light.
The first LED i saw that really make sense when it comes to price<->power saving (amortization).

There is no CAT6 at the moment. Everything is short and on the breadboard smiley-grin

But when you talk about shielding. Would you always connect the shield to ground?
Both ends ore just one?
I use just shielded cable:
Stranded CAT.5E SF/UTP for switches and flow sensors.
Stranded CAT.6 S/STP for network.
Solid CAT.6 S/FTP AWG23 for 12V power to the LEDs and Arduinos.
Lappkabel UNITRONIC LiYCY 2x0,25mm2 where i have to spread the 12V: http://products.lappgroup.com/online-catalogue/data-communication-systems/low-frequency-data-transmission-cables/din-colour-code/unitronic-liycy.html

And i want to make a extra cable from the breaker box to my home stereo.
I want to use Lappkabel ÖLFLEX 120 CH 3x2,5mm2: http://products.lappgroup.com/online-catalogue/power-and-control-cables/various-applications/halogen-free/oelflex-120-ch.html
But i'm not sure what to to with the shield on this 220Volt cable.
17  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 14, 2013, 04:55:59 pm
The Highly Efficient thing was just a idea in the beginning when i was reading around and looking for infos.
Now i just want to get the dimming working.

Hm, a resistor at the gate? I have the 4.5Volt at the LED even with the gate not connected to the Arduino.

Source voltage? You mean the 12Volt that go to the LED? The IRLU8726PBF is made for up to 30Volt.

I can find allot 220Volt MOSFET circuits but nothing on logic level MOSFET.
From my understanding there is no need for a driver if you use a logic level MOSFET and
you can connect it directly to the micro controller.

I have just an 15 year old 2MP digital camera. No need for a new one until i have the luck to visit Disney World smiley-grin
18  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / Re: good looking DS18B20 room integration? on: February 14, 2013, 04:37:02 pm
Physical a "metal piece of art" would be the same as metal in the wall switch frame i made my switch from.
Except that the switch frame would look better in the bathroom then "metal art"  smiley-grin

Physical i think a box with some slots at bottom and top for airflow would be best.
I saw now that they have surface mount housings from my switch line: http://www.lichtchef.de/images/jung2/AS581ASW.jpg
But i think this will be overkill for the small DS18B20.
19  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / Re: good looking DS18B20 room integration? on: February 14, 2013, 06:49:21 am
But hanging a bare chip out off the wall? lol
20  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 14, 2013, 06:47:03 am
What is over-kill?

Selling the house my parents build stone by stone with there own hands - never ever smiley

I have no lux meter.
But what about the 4.5Volt i always have?
Why does the Mosfet not totally turn off?
21  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / good looking DS18B20 room integration? on: February 13, 2013, 11:55:05 pm
Hi,

i'm looking for ideas on how to mount DS18B20s on the wall.
I did the first switch for the bathroom as you can see in the picture.
Funny that you can see every fingerprint in the picture and makes it look like its scratched.
In real life its not.

Is it a good idea to mount the DS18B20 to metal for better reaction to temp changes?
Maybe the same frame like my switch and instead change the middle plate to copper and painting it black.
22  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 13, 2013, 09:47:09 pm
I did some tests now.
Just a IRLU8726PBF MOSFET: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/150000-174999/161232-da-01-en-MOSFET_IRLU8726PBF_I_PAK_IR.pdf

Is it normal that i always measure 4.5V on the LED when there is no signal on the gate?
Here is my test code:
Code:
#define hallwayLightOff 22
#define hallwayLightOn 23
#define hallwayLightPin 6

int hallwayLightPWM = 0;

void setup () {
    Serial.begin(9600);
  pinMode(hallwayLightOff, INPUT);
  digitalWrite(hallwayLightOff, HIGH);
  pinMode(hallwayLightOn, INPUT);
  digitalWrite(hallwayLightOn, HIGH);
  pinMode(hallwayLightPin, OUTPUT);
}
long hallwayLightValue = 0;

void loop() {
  hallwayLightPWM = map(hallwayLightValue, 0, 1023, 0, 255);
  if(digitalRead(hallwayLightOff) == LOW) {
    if (hallwayLightValue++ > 1023) { hallwayLightValue = 1023; } // constrain high value
  }
  if(digitalRead(hallwayLightOn) == LOW) {
    if (hallwayLightValue-- < 0) { hallwayLightValue = 0; } // constrain low value
  }
  analogWrite(hallwayLightPin, hallwayLightPWM);
  Serial.println(hallwayLightPWM);
  delay(1); // speed of change
}
The problem is that already at "PWM 50", which gives me 9.6V the LED is full bright.
If i switch from "PWM 1" to "0" it really needs long until my multimeter goes down to 4,5V.

How is that with SSRs? Do they also not turn off completely? That would mean there is always
power wasting?
23  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 10, 2013, 12:52:23 pm
I'm trying to figure out where the problem is.
I thought that:
Code:
if (justpressed[0]) {
justpressed[0] = 0;
Serial.print(i, DEC);
Serial.println(" Just pressed");
client.publish("foo/shower","0"); // Turn off Shower Light
// remember, check_switches() will CLEAR the 'just pressed' flag
}
shows me if the first button (pin 54 on the Mega) is pressed?
It's the only button that is connected at the moment.
But sometimes i get:
5 Just pressed
3 Just pressed
2 Just pressed
instead of "0 Just pressed" if i press button 0/54

The funny thing is that also if the serial monitor says for example "3 Just pressed", my button 0 code works.
24  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 08, 2013, 06:02:59 pm
The code is send over ethernet to the second arduino.
Code:
if (justreleased[0]) {
      justreleased[0] = 0;
      Serial.print(i, DEC);
      Serial.println(" Just released");
}
Sometimes shows:
5 Just released
3 Just released
2 Just released
3 Just released
in the serial Monitor.
But also if i see for example "5 Just released" i receive the code in Mosquitto until it stops working.
25  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 08, 2013, 02:36:54 pm
Ok, it must be the button naming.
Can somebody tell me where i have to change the "i" to a button number:
Code:
if (justreleased[i]) {
      justreleased[i] = 0;
      Serial.print(i, DEC);
      Serial.println(" Just released");
      client.publish("foo/shower","0"); // Turn off Shower Light
}
I don't get it.
And maybe how to make it work with "just pressed" and sending the code just one time.
26  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 07, 2013, 09:04:44 pm
Is there a way to debug this stuff to find out why it stops working after some time?
27  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 07, 2013, 07:32:11 pm
In Ladyada's code it's:
Code:
// here is where we define the buttons that we'll use. button "1" is the first, button "6" is the 6th, etc
byte buttons[] = {14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19}; // the analog 0-5 pins are also known as 14-19
So for the Mega i thought it's "54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59".
And looks like this is correct cause the button (A0) works.
28  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 07, 2013, 02:58:09 pm
I have the code now on an Mega and set:
Code:
byte buttons[] = {54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59};
But it's the same. It works and after some time stops working (also without doing anything).

In the command prompt on my windows server i receive nothing when it stops working.
If it works i see:
Code:
Client mosqsub/4868-SIREN received PUBLISH (d0, q0, r0, m0, 'foo/shower', ... (1 bytes)) 0
if Mosquitto is started with "mosquitto_sub -d -t foo/#" in the command prompt.
29  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to know if a Arduino has enough memory for a project on: February 07, 2013, 06:16:34 am
I have an old Mega and the last revision.
The reason i took the Nano for the bathroom was that i can solder him on a Stripboard.
Yes i saw there is a shield with screw terminals. But it costs money, you have to order
it and wait for another part and then i also have to solder the cables to the PCB/Stripboard
and then screw them to the shield.

Also with just plugging the cables in the shield headers (something i don't like for fixed installation)
it's a cable mess.
30  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / How to know if a Arduino has enough memory for a project on: February 06, 2013, 10:10:24 am
Hi,

I'm doing some home automation stuff and sensor reading with some Arduinos.
I bought a Nano for the bathroom and now I'm scared that the 32 KB are not enough.
I chose the Nano cause it's easy to integrate him into the PCB.

I have just the code i posted here now on it: http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,141240.msg1105074.html#msg1105074
So 14 KB are already gone.

But i want to see life data of my sensors on the web page, save data to the SD-Card and upload them to
the servers database.

This is what was planned:
D2 S0-Interface Electricity Meter Bathroom Underfloor heating
D3 S0-Interface Electricity Meter
D5 One Wire BUS (1 DS18B20)
D6 Flow Sensor Bathroom Sink Cold
D7 Flow Sensor Bathroom Sink Hot
D8 Flow Sensor Shower
D9 Flow Sensor Toilette

A0 (14) Reed Switch Bathroom Window
A1 (15) Push Switch 1 (Shower On)
A2 (16) Push Switch 2 (Shower Off)
A3 (17) Push Switch 3 (Bathroom On)
A4 (18) Push Switch 4 (Bathroom Off)
A5 (19) Push Switch 5 (Bathroom On)
A6 (20) Push Switch 6 (Bathroom Off)

The push switch stuff is send trough my Windows server with MQTT to another Arduino and
later i also want to change the code so that i can dime the lights.
Looks like 32 KB is not enough and i need a Mega?

PS:
Is it a good idea to start one thread for the whole project instead of spreading the stuff
where i need help and have problems over the forum? Cause this way all the code is
in one place and i do not need to copy it around and always need to explain what the
rest of the code does that has nothing to do with a particular thread.
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