Show Posts
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 8
16  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: what do you call the thing that connects to the spinning part of the motor? on: February 17, 2013, 08:52:14 pm
Shaft coupling
Something like this put smaller: http://www.reichelt.de/Potiknoepfe/ACHSKUPPLUNG-2/3/index.html?;ARTICLE=42133
17  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 17, 2013, 08:47:26 pm
@lax123, i thank you that you want to help me. But that is basic stuff i know.

And this calculator shows what i don't understand. Why so big and short cables for LED's?
I read stuff like 0.75mm2 - 1.5mm2 on most sides.
But if you look at eldoLED POWERdrive they write 3 meters to the LEDs.
And they write 0.2mm2 per 1 ampere.
They also wrote somewhere that 6 meters is no problem with CAT cable and also wrote that
they have customers who made up to 50 meters.

What i can't find is a answerer to PWM over longer distance.
If i have a LED driver with PWM in - how long can i make the PWM line from the Arfuino
to the driver.

There is also the option to dim analog. This would change the color temperature a little.
But i can't see in the Cree datasheets what color temperature at which ampere.
They write color temperatures from 2600 to 4300 for the XP-E High-Efficiency White LEDs.

Damn is this LED stuff complicated when it comes to dimming.
I wish i had a oscilloscope smiley-grin
18  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 16, 2013, 03:50:23 pm
0.5 Meter?
It's a house. There are 5-10 meters...
I found this driver: http://www.leds.de/out/media/KSQ.pdf
And they write to make the cable from the supply not longer then 1,5 meters.
Or is it that they assume that power cables are always unshielded?
19  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 16, 2013, 02:26:05 am
Ok, i did some measuring as you can see in the attachment.
I cant figure out the driver circuit cause its to small.
But there is a R25 and 3R00 on the PCB.
If i look at the M7201 data sheet that would mean they drive the LEDs with 0.1 / 0,25Ω = 400mA
That is close to my measurement.
If the 0.25Ω and 3Ω resistors are parallel its right: 0.1 / 0.23Ω = 430mA

If i look at the CRI and Color temperature and everything i bet they are Cree XLamp  XP-E High-Efficiency White LEDs. http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/55-2568.pdf
But if the forward voltage is 3V, why do i measure 9V?
Shouldn't it be: 12V - 3 x 3V = 3V

So from all the reading around it looks like the driver needs to be near the LEDs.
So i need a third wire for PWM?
But how about the PWM cable length?
20  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 15, 2013, 08:15:38 am
After thinking i cant open the LED without breaking it i have it open now.
The 3 LEDs are series-connected.
The electronic was sealed in some silicon.
Looks close to this ones: http://detail.china.alibaba.com/pic/914205741.html

Its a MT7201 1A LED driver: http://www.maxictech.com/en/UploadFiles/MT7201_rev1.1_EN.pdf
And the circuit is close to this one: http://www.led-treiber.de/html/getaktete_treiber.html#MIC3201
But there are some diodes in front of it as rectifier.

Looks like you can PWM control this driver.
I will try to reverse engineer the circuit/PCB to find out what the LEDs need.

If i build my own driver, is it better to
1. put the MOSFET and driver near the LED
2. put the MOSFET near the Arduino and the driver near the LED
3. put the MOSFET and the driver near to the Arduino

And sure there are dimable LEDs out there, but they are not cheap and this have a really
good Colour Rendering Index and Color temperature.
21  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 15, 2013, 05:31:50 am
As a german i know what it means smiley-grin

But i think its there cause there are to many factors with transformers and dimmers.
I have a 12 volt halogen electronic transformer that is dim able with "reverse phase control dimmer" and
"phase control dimmer". But here the dimmer is in front of the transformer and its AC.
I was thinking DC and PWM the whole time - maybe there is another way.
I mean if i feed less volt to the LED its darker.
Maybe AC instead of DC...

Edit:
Just found this:

So i need to do more research and use other words in google.
Was looking the whole time for PWM stuff.
22  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 15, 2013, 03:27:14 am
God damn. After removing the LED i still had 12Volt.
From 10 Mosfets i picket a broken one smiley-mad

So i did some testing now and the electronic in the LED makes problems.
Here are some measurement:
Monitor PWM: 1, Pin 6 Volts: 0.03
D6 = 0.02 Volt
LED = 0.00 Volt (lights up)
LED turned = 0.21 Volt (lights up)
no LED = 11.3 Volt

Monitor PWM: 36, Pin 6 Volts: 0.72
D6 = 0.71 Volt
LED = 2.85 Volt (lights up)
LED turned = 2.85 Volt (lights up)
no LED = 11.5 Volt

If i connect the LED directly to the 12 Volt power supply i have 12 Volt at the LED.
In the PWM circuit i have the funniest volts.

There are allot PWM circuits out there but PWM is what the Arduino does.
Maybe a LED driver?
I found this: http://www.led-treiber.de/html/leds_grundlagen.html#PWM-Dimmer
and they write it works with all there LED drivers: http://www.led-treiber.de/html/getaktete_treiber.html

How about a power supply for all the LEDs and a "reverse phase control dimmer" in front of them
who is controllable with the Arduino?

There must be a way to dim those LEDs with some kind of circuit :-(
23  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 14, 2013, 09:57:41 pm
Grounding the gate changes nothing.
There is no limiting resistor cause its a 12V LED. Its one of those you can swap with
the 12V halogen lamps in halogen systems: http://www.amazon.de/ersetzt-35Watt-Halogen-warmes-Kelvin/dp/B0076J5AHG/
They are really bright like 35Watt normal lamps and make a nice light.
The first LED i saw that really make sense when it comes to price<->power saving (amortization).

There is no CAT6 at the moment. Everything is short and on the breadboard smiley-grin

But when you talk about shielding. Would you always connect the shield to ground?
Both ends ore just one?
I use just shielded cable:
Stranded CAT.5E SF/UTP for switches and flow sensors.
Stranded CAT.6 S/STP for network.
Solid CAT.6 S/FTP AWG23 for 12V power to the LEDs and Arduinos.
Lappkabel UNITRONIC LiYCY 2x0,25mm2 where i have to spread the 12V: http://products.lappgroup.com/online-catalogue/data-communication-systems/low-frequency-data-transmission-cables/din-colour-code/unitronic-liycy.html

And i want to make a extra cable from the breaker box to my home stereo.
I want to use Lappkabel ÖLFLEX 120 CH 3x2,5mm2: http://products.lappgroup.com/online-catalogue/power-and-control-cables/various-applications/halogen-free/oelflex-120-ch.html
But i'm not sure what to to with the shield on this 220Volt cable.
24  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 14, 2013, 04:55:59 pm
The Highly Efficient thing was just a idea in the beginning when i was reading around and looking for infos.
Now i just want to get the dimming working.

Hm, a resistor at the gate? I have the 4.5Volt at the LED even with the gate not connected to the Arduino.

Source voltage? You mean the 12Volt that go to the LED? The IRLU8726PBF is made for up to 30Volt.

I can find allot 220Volt MOSFET circuits but nothing on logic level MOSFET.
From my understanding there is no need for a driver if you use a logic level MOSFET and
you can connect it directly to the micro controller.

I have just an 15 year old 2MP digital camera. No need for a new one until i have the luck to visit Disney World smiley-grin
25  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / Re: good looking DS18B20 room integration? on: February 14, 2013, 04:37:02 pm
Physical a "metal piece of art" would be the same as metal in the wall switch frame i made my switch from.
Except that the switch frame would look better in the bathroom then "metal art"  smiley-grin

Physical i think a box with some slots at bottom and top for airflow would be best.
I saw now that they have surface mount housings from my switch line: http://www.lichtchef.de/images/jung2/AS581ASW.jpg
But i think this will be overkill for the small DS18B20.
26  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / Re: good looking DS18B20 room integration? on: February 14, 2013, 06:49:21 am
But hanging a bare chip out off the wall? lol
27  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 14, 2013, 06:47:03 am
What is over-kill?

Selling the house my parents build stone by stone with there own hands - never ever smiley

I have no lux meter.
But what about the 4.5Volt i always have?
Why does the Mosfet not totally turn off?
28  Topics / Home Automation and Networked Objects / good looking DS18B20 room integration? on: February 13, 2013, 11:55:05 pm
Hi,

i'm looking for ideas on how to mount DS18B20s on the wall.
I did the first switch for the bathroom as you can see in the picture.
Funny that you can see every fingerprint in the picture and makes it look like its scratched.
In real life its not.

Is it a good idea to mount the DS18B20 to metal for better reaction to temp changes?
Maybe the same frame like my switch and instead change the middle plate to copper and painting it black.
29  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Clean and energy efficient LED dimming on: February 13, 2013, 09:47:09 pm
I did some tests now.
Just a IRLU8726PBF MOSFET: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/150000-174999/161232-da-01-en-MOSFET_IRLU8726PBF_I_PAK_IR.pdf

Is it normal that i always measure 4.5V on the LED when there is no signal on the gate?
Here is my test code:
Code:
#define hallwayLightOff 22
#define hallwayLightOn 23
#define hallwayLightPin 6

int hallwayLightPWM = 0;

void setup () {
    Serial.begin(9600);
  pinMode(hallwayLightOff, INPUT);
  digitalWrite(hallwayLightOff, HIGH);
  pinMode(hallwayLightOn, INPUT);
  digitalWrite(hallwayLightOn, HIGH);
  pinMode(hallwayLightPin, OUTPUT);
}
long hallwayLightValue = 0;

void loop() {
  hallwayLightPWM = map(hallwayLightValue, 0, 1023, 0, 255);
  if(digitalRead(hallwayLightOff) == LOW) {
    if (hallwayLightValue++ > 1023) { hallwayLightValue = 1023; } // constrain high value
  }
  if(digitalRead(hallwayLightOn) == LOW) {
    if (hallwayLightValue-- < 0) { hallwayLightValue = 0; } // constrain low value
  }
  analogWrite(hallwayLightPin, hallwayLightPWM);
  Serial.println(hallwayLightPWM);
  delay(1); // speed of change
}
The problem is that already at "PWM 50", which gives me 9.6V the LED is full bright.
If i switch from "PWM 1" to "0" it really needs long until my multimeter goes down to 4,5V.

How is that with SSRs? Do they also not turn off completely? That would mean there is always
power wasting?
30  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Ladyada's multi-button checker - how to? on: February 10, 2013, 12:52:23 pm
I'm trying to figure out where the problem is.
I thought that:
Code:
if (justpressed[0]) {
justpressed[0] = 0;
Serial.print(i, DEC);
Serial.println(" Just pressed");
client.publish("foo/shower","0"); // Turn off Shower Light
// remember, check_switches() will CLEAR the 'just pressed' flag
}
shows me if the first button (pin 54 on the Mega) is pressed?
It's the only button that is connected at the moment.
But sometimes i get:
5 Just pressed
3 Just pressed
2 Just pressed
instead of "0 Just pressed" if i press button 0/54

The funny thing is that also if the serial monitor says for example "3 Just pressed", my button 0 code works.
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 8