"Board on fire", code 0x15.

Seriously: negative voltages on the inputs can damage your Arduino.  There are techniques to transform the voltage into something Arduino can use; search the forums for "level shifting" for one approach.

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The web server does not have to be on the internet.  It can be on the phone, or a PC, on your local network.

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The problem is the file:// url.  There is a great difference between http:// and file:// urls.  The main issue here is that a file:// url is only valid on the device where the resource named by the url lives.

To fetch a resource like an image across the network, it needs to be on an http:// server and the referring HTML code needs to use the appropriate http:// url to fetch it.

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Your SD card is probably formatted with a FAT file system, which cannot handle .html as a normal extension, since normal extensions back when FAT was invented were limited to 3 characters.  Files with more than 8 characters in the filename or three characters in the extension get this special treatment.

I'm guessing the tilde thing isn't happening to files that fit the 8.3 limit. 

You could name your file .htm and see if it helps.

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The reason you are seeing .html files treated as plain text is because the code tells the browser that is what it wants:

Code:

          client.println("HTTP/1.1 200 OK");
          client.println("Content-Type: text/plain");
          client.println();

I believe you'll find Content-Type: text/html will make the browser render the html the way you want.

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Yes.

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Code:

if (PAN1 == 0 & PAN2 == 0) {Serial.write("[BAD ADRESS]"); }   

Think I see a bug, but it may not matter.  What happens if you use && in the if test?

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Go with the simplest thing that works.  If you have time margins that permit round-robin scheduling, go with it.  It's easier to debug and more deterministic.

Bear in mind that you already have interrupt-driven _output_ in play if you end up using Serial.print to send your control output.

A lot will depend on understanding the timing requirements.

Good luck with your project,

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http://bitlash.net

If a virtual joystick is acceptable, Bitlash Commander does this pretty much out of the box.  I believe you could extend it to read your joystick if the physical hardware is important.

You need a program on the PC to send commands to the Arduino, and another program on the Arduino to interpret them and set the PWM values.  Bitlash Commander handles the PC part, and send commands to Bitlash, which you install on the Arduino.



https://github.com/billroy/bitlash-commander

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http://bitlash.net

The main example for the Run library, available here: https://github.com/billroy/run shows how to blink two LEDs at different rates using the Run library.  You could extend that example, but of course it's best if you understand what's going on by studying the BlinkWithoutDelay example.

You've got three little tasks, each with its own timeline.  You can't use delay in any of them because it disrupts the scheduling for all of them.  Each light needs its own scheduled time for the next thing to happen.

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This is the point where I suggest you hit the search engines.

Best,

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Yes, there is a property you can specify on the control that controls whether or not an XY slider returns to center.

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If what you are after is SNMP information from the printer, why not write an Arduino SNMP client for the ethernet shield to go grab it over the network?  Google shows a lot of hits for "arduino snmp".  You might find some code that would make a good starting point.

I don't understand how sniffing the printer traffic was going to get you SNMP data anyway.  But getting even one of those protocols right would be a sizable project.

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What you are apparently trying to do is quite difficult on Arduino.  Any one of those transports would be a fairly big job even for someone experienced on the platform.

If you want to see the ethernet traffic being sent to the printer, you can do it without any hardware using Wireshark on the PC doing the printing.

It would motivate more (and better) help if you could be more transparent about your objectives.  You want us to help you build a hardware printer man-in-the-middle attack?

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If it's still working, and you have the cover, try gluing it on.

If not, sorry to say, you are probably faced with replacing the nano.

If you have hot air equipment and rework skills, replacing a surface mount part like that is only a little bit tricky.  If you haven't used hot air equipment before, replacing a single part in a tightly populated board is probably not the best place to start.

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