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16  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to power the Arduino from a UK light switch on: August 23, 2014, 08:50:11 pm
Absolutley not.

Lightswitches in uk no not have a neutral.

If you use the earth the very best situation would be you trip a leakage breaker if you have one.
They are not connected to lighting circuits in domestic situations any way.

Worst case various electrical devices in home will suddenly become live wrt local earth, FATAL.

So they just break the hot and don't bring the neutral in the box. There is ways of doing this but I wouldn't want some one with
no idea of whats in the switch box putting his hand in there they use higher voltage over there.
17  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Obstacle Avoiding Robot Help on: August 23, 2014, 01:55:35 pm
You got a lot of problems going on here. First off how are you driving the wheels ?
If your using two motors to move forward one side turns CW and one turns CCW  but that can be fixed in the wiring of the motor.
Or handled in code.
 Next thing you need to figure is ok im moving forward at high speed going to hit a wall how long does it take to stop before that happens.
We have to act on that to do one of two things low down or stop then figure new path to take in your case stop looks like what you want.
Then figure new path.

To help with the code need to see how you have it wired..
18  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: R5 on LCD broken? on: August 20, 2014, 09:34:12 pm
Two of mine are marked 222 for R5
19  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: R5 on LCD broken? on: August 20, 2014, 09:09:30 pm
Sorry your talking about the resistors on the back should of looked at your pic sure thats not part of the back light.
20  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Setting up an arduino controlled relay causes main short circuit on: August 28, 2013, 06:12:11 pm
Pictures always help
21  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Uno3 and Uno2 on: August 22, 2013, 10:47:53 pm
Maybe you've got a bad part then.
If you swap the 328s between the 2 boards, does the R2 work and R3 not work?

That was next on my list I'm looking for the tube of 328 I have to swap one and see.
My uno rev3 has had the chip pulled so much i've about broke the pins off lol.

Well I couldn't find the tube of 328s I have so I pulled chip and swaped them they both work now maybe the chip wasn't seated good or something on the Rev2 I guess

22  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Uno3 and Uno2 on: August 22, 2013, 10:38:06 pm
It works on the uno rev3 but the uno2 it doesn't work on. I found the sch for a Rev2 and it doesn't even show any SDA or SCL lines.
but there both ATmega328 So it looks like they should be the same.

It's hooked up like this on both
23  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Uno3 and Uno2 on: August 22, 2013, 09:30:32 pm
I have a uno3 and the uno2.
Here the deal I uploaded the ArduinoNunchuk example code in the Uno2 and it doesn't work it's like the SDA and SCL are not hooked up.
So pull out the Uno3 and and load the same code and it works fine.

So is not the SDA SCL lines in the same place on both I found this
Revision 3 of the board has the following new features:
1.0 pinout: added SDA and SCL pins that are near to the AREF pin and two other new pins placed near to the RESET pin, the IOREF that allow the shields to adapt to the voltage provided from the board. In future, shields will be compatible with both the board that uses the AVR, which operates with 5V and with the Arduino Due that operates with 3.3V. The second one is a not connected pin, that is reserved for future purposes.
24  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: new electronics hobbyist on: August 17, 2013, 11:12:05 pm
I figure this would help
2.5 Analog Versus Digital Meters.

There are some who might say that the analog meter is on its way out, but they would be wrong. As mentioned earlier, the analog meter is almost immune to EMI (electromagnetic interference). In addition to this it is very good for showing changes in electrical quantities.
There are many cases in which an adjustment must be made for maximum or minimum current or voltage. While it is possible to use a digital readout for such an adjustment, an analog meter makes it much easier.

Suppose you are adjusting a control for a minimum current. When using an analog meter you do not actually read the scale of the meter. You watch the pointer moving to the left as you turn the control. When the pointer starts moving to the right, you reverse direction on the control and bring the pointer back to its left-most position. It is a matter of eye-hand coordination.

On the other, hand if you are using a digital readout to make the same adjustment, you do have to read the number on the display. As you make the adjustment you continuously read the number and do a comparison to the previous one. It's no longer a matter of eye-hand coordination; now the mind must remember a number and do calculations of sorts: "Is this number larger than or smaller than the other one?" This remembering and calculating takes more time and requires more mental effort than does eye-hand coordination.

"But wait a minute" I hear some of you saying. "What about bar graph displays?" Bar graph displays usually have ten elements which gives only 10% resolution. In tuning the output circuit of a radio transmitter the capacitor is adjusted for minimum amplifier current. This setting gives maximum power output and maximum efficiency of the amplifier. If a bar graph were used for this purpose the amplifier current would have to change by 10% of full-scale before any change could be detected by the operator. If a transmitter's output stage is operated 10% "off the dip" the output could be down by as much as 30% and the output amplifier could even be damaged.

This is but one example; there are many others in the field of electronics. It can be argued that there is no reason why a bar graph must be limited to ten elements. There is a reason, money. To match the resolution of an analog meter a bar graph would have to have at least 50 elements and 100 would be preferred. At the present state of the art, a 50 or 100 element bar graph readout is so costly as to be unfeasible. And don't forget that matter of EMI. Analog meter readouts will be with us for many years to come.

In service work there are many service adjustments which require making an adjustment for zero, minimum or maximum voltage or current. That is one of the strongest arguments for keeping a VOM on the service bench.

Back to top.

A nice site to get the op up and going
25  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Run motor from rc helicopter through Arduino on: August 11, 2013, 08:49:01 pm
You dont like your uno do you you can't run the motor from a pin off the uno
You need more power or even volts that the pin can output 40ma 5 volt max that motor may us over a AMP.

You'll need a transistor as switch
26  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Solder does not stick to iron after cleaning on: August 06, 2013, 02:09:09 pm
Lol these aren't a $12 iron and the kind of dimmer.
How can any said whats what and not have one
Guess I guess lol I know what mine does it over heats the
Tip not now and I'm happy with the set up
27  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Solder does not stick to iron after cleaning on: August 05, 2013, 05:36:10 pm
Just for the road it's not a Rheostat dimmer they are big and wast power as heat and are not stable for this.

Im using a Thyristor dimmer
Thyristor (and briefly, thyratron) dimmers were introduced to solve some of these problems. Thyristor dimmers switch on at an adjustable time (phase angle) after the start of each alternating current half-cycle, thereby altering the voltage waveform applied to lamps and so changing its RMS effective value. Because they switch instead of absorbing part of the voltage supplied, there is very little wasted power. Dimming can be almost instantaneous and is easily controlled by remote electronics.
28  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Solder does not stick to iron after cleaning on: August 05, 2013, 11:57:09 am
The iron the OP has I'm sure it's the same as I posted It's a very well made but like the OP has found out it gets to dam hot to fast.

I've used a lot of irons in the last 40 years there all been usable some better then the rest but still usable big stuff big iron.
But the one were talking about is able to over heat way to fast and make the tip hard to clean. But like any thing if you learn your tools they become usable.

I slapped a dimmer on mine and its ten times better then any I've used  over the years I think they under rated it it's hotter then a 40 watt I use on grounds. And it can handle the same jobs easy.

I first got mine just because it was on sale for half price and had a nice case for my tool box on the truck. It solder two 12 gauge wires like butter till it sat in the holder then you had to clean it with tip cleaner.  I pull out a work box and a outlet and dimmer from my part box and made a cheap controller for it after a hour and two kinds of solder I tamed her down. It's better then a weller at work that cost over $400 and I have $24 in it. 
29  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Solder does not stick to iron after cleaning on: August 04, 2013, 10:16:46 pm
I'd say you have one of these it's a great iron put a $5.00 dollar dimmer on it and you'll Love it.
30  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Solder does not stick to iron after cleaning on: August 04, 2013, 09:54:44 pm
It's a dimmer 1500 watt triac dimmer
Here the Lowes page

You'd wire it up close to that
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