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1  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Turn your face tanner into a pcb UV lamp on: February 23, 2014, 11:44:10 pm
Hello all,

well, there is nothing new about using solarium lamps for photopositive coated pcbs and I wanted to do the same. So I bought me a used face tanner even with built-in time switch. In the tests it turned out that the steps of the time switch (one minute) were too coarse for my application as the lamp is very strong.

So I hacked it and put in a ATmega328P and a salvaged 16x2 LCD display. The lamp is switched with a solid state relay. What I like on this hack is that it's all just plain standard: power supply, ATmega controller, LCD display and libraries. Even the display fits perfectly into the original case with a small modification. Now I can adjust exposition time in steps of one second. And if I need additional functions it will be easy to add them.

If interested look here:

2  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems trying to solder ATMEGA1284p onto protoboard on: January 16, 2014, 12:33:20 pm
The flux will make you problems in the future. You can try to clean the board e. g. with alcohol. When all your connections are ok everything's fine at the moment.

3  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: New solar project: Minimalistic system on: January 16, 2014, 11:20:39 am
Hello all,

after some experiments with 1F of capacity for my minimalistic system I got back to 0.1F. This is the point where different configurations of a "real life" system can be compared to see which one is the best. So this would be the starting point to set up your individual hardware and try it out. If interested, look at:

To me, this project is a educational one and I learned a lot! The next steps would be connecting other memories like e. g. a SD card and bringing data out of the system to make it useable. At the moment I will stop at this point and perhaps continue at a later time...

4  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems trying to solder ATMEGA1284p onto protoboard on: January 16, 2014, 10:57:37 am

DON'T use it for electronics!!! This one is for plumbing. Although sold as acid-free it will produce acid during soldering. This will kill your circuit over time!

For soldering electronic parts take a SnPB60/40 electronic solder. It has flux inside. Normally, no additional flux is needed when you have through-hole components.

My soldering iron runs at 340 degrees Celsius. It depends on the tip you have.

When you have your circuit done connect it to power (with no chip in the socket) and check with the multimeter if all supply voltage connections are good (voltage appears on the pins it should and not on the neighbour pins). The disconnect power and insert the chip. After reconnecting power measure supply current. It should be around 8 to 15mA.

5  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: problems trying to solder ATMEGA1284p onto protoboard on: January 16, 2014, 10:16:07 am
First of all, I would  take a socket for the chip. This makes testing and replacing much easier. When you have checked all connections and they are ok please also check if you have connections you don't want to, e. g. bridging two pins with solder. A magnifying lens is very appreciated for finding soldering errors.

How did you check the connections?

6  Using Arduino / Storage / 512KB EEPROM for your arduino on: January 10, 2014, 06:09:11 am
Hello all,

during my minimalistic solar driven datalogging project (see here) I had to add additional EEPROM. Here is what I think is somehow the limit: four 24AA1025 I2C EEPROMs giving a total of 512KB memory space. This post in my blog shows the hardware setup and the way the memory is addressed through different I2C addresses. For having it more comfortably I added some code snipplets that show how to make one big chunk of memory with a linear address range out of it. Now addresses go continuously from 0 to 524,287  smiley

If interested, have a look at:

7  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: New solar project: Minimalistic system on: January 08, 2014, 02:45:39 pm
Hello all,

now I've changed my capacitors to a 1F supercap. Now uptime is really long  smiley  smiley So I had to increase the memory size a lot. With a total of 256KB it is still way too short to keep all the data that are generated while logging data. To see what is happening you can have a look at:

Tests are going on, more news will follow!

8  Using Arduino / Microcontrollers / Re: analog input on: January 03, 2014, 09:23:13 am
Which pir sensor do you use?

What is your question?

9  Community / Exhibition / Gallery / Re: New solar project: Minimalistic system on: December 27, 2013, 02:33:27 pm
Hello all,

now I've gone one step further with my project. Now it's going towards real life. I began with changing the logging interval. This shows the influence of both the consumption while running and sleeping. The next step is to take a supercap as energy source. The first part of the post is already online. If interested, look at:

10  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Bootloader to Atmega 328A (40 pins) from mega adk. on: December 27, 2013, 01:18:55 pm
This is what I thought. The 32A is not the same as the 328. I burned the bootloader to a standalone 328P and 1284P. with a Uno R3 board as programmer. You can look at:

Arduino homepage:

Nick Gammon's pages:

and also in my blog:

For the  ATmega1284P you can look here:

There you see how it works for non-standard chips. You will need the appropriate bootloader and some other files for your chip. I don't have any experience with the 32A. To use the arduino board as programmer strictly follow the instructions. Also be sure to always select the right board in the Arduino IDE. When you load the "ArduinoISP" sketch to your board you need to select the board you use (as programmer). To burn the bootloader into your target chip select the board type with this chip.

You could look in this forum for the 32A.

11  Using Arduino / Installation & Troubleshooting / Re: Bootloader to Atmega 328A (40 pins) from mega adk. on: December 27, 2013, 11:09:38 am
Hello webaddic,

welcome to the forum!

I suppose very much that you don't have a ATmega328A but another chip. On the Atmel list there isn't a ATmega328A. The ATmega328P (the chip from the Uno R3 board) has 28 pins when in DIP case (suitable for breadboard). The ATmega1284P has 40 pins when it is in DIP case.

So, which chip do you really have?

12  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Mosfet drain-source voltage on: December 21, 2013, 11:33:53 am
What is your supply voltage?

13  Topics / Science and Measurement / Re: float and rotary encoder arduino project on: December 19, 2013, 06:32:03 pm
You can also look at some posts in my blog about rotary encoders. In the past I was working on making your own encoder (hardware and software).

Simple rotary encoder:

Quadrature encoder:

This is a very basic example for reading an encoder:

14  Development / Other Software Development / New library for timer1 and timer3 of the ATmega1284P on: December 18, 2013, 09:13:31 am
This is my very first library project:

The TimerOne library makes use of the 16-bit timer1 of the ATmega328P (Uno R3 chip). As I changed my RGB-LED project to the ATmega1284P because I wanted higher PWM solution I tried the TimerOne library. Unfortunately it doesn't run on the ATmega1284P beacuse the pin settings are somewhat hard-coded in the lib. So I changed the pin settings and then my timer1 was working.

Now the 1284P also has a timer3 (this was the reason why I switched to this controller). The TimerThree library at didn't work and so I simply doubled the code of the TimerOne lib and adapted the register and pin settings, accordingly.

You can find a short description with all the links in my blog:

The lib is at:

In my IDE (1.0.5) everything works good, hopefully this is the same on other 1.0 versions of the IDE.

So I'm not a skilled programmer but am publishing now this lib hoping that everything works and some others find it useful.

15  International / Deutsch / Re: Minimal Arduino 8Mhz on: December 17, 2013, 03:48:41 am
Der ATmega328P läuft im Auslieferungszustand (also ohne Bootloader, direkt vom Hersteller) mit dem internen Taktgeber. Deshalb kann man ihm standalone den Bootloader verpassen. Abhängig davon, welchen Bootloader man nimmt braucht man danach einen Quarz für den Takt oder eben nicht. Das wird u. a. durch die Fuses festgelegt, die man auch direkt auslesen und setzen kann (Vorsicht, damit kann man den Chip auch in einen unbrauchbaren Zustand versetzen!). Siehe hier:

Viele Grüße

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