I agree with John that by making prev static, you will be mixing up the usage of the two calls to timer.
You are thinking that each timer call has its "own" copy of prev that is not reset. but actually, both timer calls are using the same prev variable.

when you say "use my library in separate classes", if you meant converting your timer function by wrapping it in a class that contains timer function and creating two instances of the class, then yes it will work, as each class instance will keep its own copy of prev. The Routine class you posted does exactly that.

This is a case of knowing enough to be dangerous

I think OP (original poster) should have just admitted a clear mistake and moved on, but instead tried to find some things to blame.
the fact that the question was even asked tells us the level of knowledge the OP has, and people here are helpful and responded instead f ignoring the question.

you're making it harder than it is. it's labelled right there on the board.

make sure your connections to pins 50-53 are correct. I had mistakenly connected to the last position (which is connected to GND) on the header a few times.

another option to try is to connect to ICSP spi lines.

your successful burn was selecting
Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3V, 8 MHz) w/ ATmega328
but only using 5v without connecting 3.3v?

I think that is all you need, since the fuse setting for that board is for external 8mhz crystal.
the bootloader file itself is the same for 5v and 3.3v.

your'e right. I just measured my lcd (20x4 with mcp23017 i2c circuit) and it only consumes 6.5ma with full backlight on.
I think your plan is fine.

ok, if anyone else got the ethernet shield from the seller from NJ that does not allow uploading without pressing the reset button (or not upload at all with mega), the solution is to remove R1 and C3.

See my post here
http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,103802.0.html

I just removed R1 and C3 and now I can upload sketch without removing the ethernet shield or pressing reset right before the upload.

you can follow this video on how to remove smt resistor. just alternate the soldering iron tip between the two ends of R1 (and C3) until it comes off.
http://youtu.be/6XyrNjNXSo8

The manufacturer simply followed the published schematic as-is.  There is a disclaimer to the schematic saying it is subject to change without notice. ;^)

you are implying because
client.println("GET / HTTP/1.0\r\nHost: www.eeteam.net\r\n\r\n");
sends one packet, it won't work?

the w3c spec gives a more "authoritative" explanation on why sending the extra \r\n is needed. It has nothing to do with packets.

you are correct with the 3.3v supply of the nano.
you need to really have a separate 3.3v supply (using 78L33 voltage regulator) to power the ethernet circuit.
the LCD backlight itself would require up to 200ma from your 5v supply.

referring to http w3c protocol spec (RFC2616),
http://www.w3.org/Protocols/rfc2616/rfc2616-sec5.html

at the end of each request line, you need a CRLF, then between the request line and message body, you need a blank line CRLF.

it has nothing to do with packet.

sending
client.println("GET / HTTP/1.0\r\nHost: www.eeteam.net\r\n\r\n");
would work just fine and complies with http protocol specs.

ok this got me curious.
if the camera you described is TTL serial, then why you need another SPI chip select pin? I would think you just need rx,tx and gnd.

you are referring to this camera right?
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10061

I did this research before.

when choosing, always go with the most popular/widely used. And that appears to be wifly.

get the wifly on xbee footprint. like this
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10822
or this
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10822
I think it is exactly the same as your first link. UK prices seems really high.

For the adapter, make sure you get one with actual level converter (5v to 3.3v) chip, like this
https://www.adafruit.com/products/126

some just use a resistor voltage divider to convert 5v to 3.3v.

Anyway, I ended up not using wifi for ethernet, because cost becomes prohibitively high.
You can get a decent ethernet shield on ebay for as low as $15 shipped. Then just add a wireless router like this for $24 shipped.
http://www.tp-link.us/products/details/?categoryid=241&model=TL-WR702N

your html page must be configured to do http post when send button is clicked.
you then need to handle POST request on the webserver code in Arduino.
Most examples floating around are just cover simplistic GET handler.
It is not that hard to handle POST requests. I'm sure you can find plenty of code examples by doing a search.

I got confirmation from Massimo.
Gotta love the Arduino team.
Thanks!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ping

I doubt it can be done.

I think he meant this
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Ping

Ping != Ping)))