"I have tried using a Vin of 3.5v to 10v after uploading the above code to the microcontroller!"

IS the regulator connected to the Vin? 

but yeah using a cap to block DC is a lot easier - i'll give it a go, i only have 1 of these IC's anyway it's just been gathering dust.

A preamp would be more useful as I can read in the signal to Arduino or to a power transistor to drive a speaker.

it's 1am here, just something i had in mind to do tomorrow (at last lol)

I understand where you're coming from, i started off programming in GFA BASIC - an old german written interpreter in BASIC ,i then graduated to Pascal (Object Pascal/Delphi) where I lived for a long time..

but...

Sometimes you have to accept 1 language does not fit/do all you'll pick up the language in no time.

Hmmmm..

Opening closing sockets like that every second is asking for trouble esp if your connection is lagged and can't keep up.

Personally, i'd open a socket on the server and keep it alive, and just send the data every second to a constantly open socket rather than close it, to do this i'd probably opt for a server side script eg php or if it's your own server, write a small server to deal with the arduino.

about 4 years ago (i know i know) I bought an what I thought was a 8 pin dip, Audio Amplifier, when i got home and looked it up..

it was a "LM833N Dual Audio Operational Amplifier"

and that's what that circuit uses uses (above picture) so I need a 2nd voltage rail? to pull off an audio amplifier?

Never used one before ever, always stuck to transistors to do most jobs.




Am i right in assuming this circuit will indeed amplify an audio signal?

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm

if you look at the attached image, you can see how swapping the LDR around you can get 2 different things happening "on when dark" or "on when Light"

the 1k resistor is to simply limit the current, the LDR (Light Diode Resistor) is also acting as a resistor, the difference is, the 1k resistor will always be 1k, while the LDR can vary from a few Ohms in bright light or a 100K - into the Millions depending on the manufacturer.

As the LDR gets less light (more resistance), the more of a voltage drop across the LDR (higher the analog in read value to the Arduino).

swap the 1k and LDR around, and you'll have the opposite happens... (in an analog circuit, you'd have it go to a transistor to switch an LED on, in which case swapping around would simply mean having the transistor switch on with a LOW light level or the other way round, have the transistor switch on when it's Bright.

Ohms law will explain this.

I really don't get what all the fuss is about...

Simply connect a resistor to your pin out (280ohm or there abouts), remove the transistor,  connect it straight to the LED via the resistor, then connect gnd,

it will work fine, and breathe in and out, just dimly is all but this will rule out a problem with the Transistor.

years ago from dicksmiths here in aus... one of the circuits used a unijunction transistor to switch on > 3 volts.... i need to buy some sometime...

ah finally i understand a use for a schmitt trigger!

i shall check it out thanks

without resorting to an IC or an MCU.. or even a unijunction..


how would you make a standard 3 pin turn on.. for example using an ldr or a voltage divider...

as the voltage rises on the base c/e start conducting... is there a way via discrete components to only trigger off digitally.. now it's on now it's off.. nothing inbetween

the pro's and cons....


 http://justanotherlanguage.org/book/export/html/164

It does sound like 2 things.

1. not enough current?
2. the voltage spikes produced from the magnetic fields of the coil may be causing you the issue.

Instead of using VIN, increase your voltage out to about 7.5volts on your regulator, feed it into the DC barrel jack, it will then regulate the voltage down to 5v also with it's smoothing capacitors there, you might just get away with it...


Thing with inverters and relays and generators, they create a lot of  EMI noise, add a couple of caps, use an inductor, keep the power source to the Arduino as clean as possible..

To anyone else here, could optocouplers help?

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/fairchild/IRF540N.pdf

Threshold Gate Charge Qg(TH) VGS = 0V to 2V

if it requires 10v to switch on, what's a "threshold" value?