1 single 4.2v (Fully Charged) lithium battery will supply max brightness (in the flashlight world they say "direct drive", most would say a short i guess lol) ...

BUT, that 4.2v soon becomes 4.1...3.8 in less than a few seconds, your current as a consequent drops... the best way is to keep that current up is to build a driver, sadly most people in the electronics
think of super bright LED's as anything under 30ma lol... i'm dealing with 5watt and 10watt RGB and 15watt white LED's which all run fine at 4.2volts without a resistor (except for the 12/24vdc LED's)

but you need a resistor if you wish the arduino to power it (unless you want to damage the pin/processor). if you wish to power you need a suitable power supply, a power transistor or a mosfet and a big heatsink, also you may prefer to use a PWM pin and use analogWrite on it with say a power transistor and gradually dim/light it (as i do with a 12watt 4.2v LED/TIP31,for that, i run it at around 0.9amps or Full 1.3amps, but i use a 300 ohm resistor on base to protect the pin on the arduino, i could go a lot higher with another method)

your power supply you plug into the wall does not deliver like a battery, chances are give it 4.7volts and you will see smoke, batters can only supply 4.2v, this is why manufacture specifications are important.

There's a very sarcastic undertone which runs deep through the staff here, for me it's live and learn, and a question's always a good question... but when they put next to no effort into even formulating just the wording to something so very vague.... i see it as fair, as long as it does not turn into ridicule or hatred, at most a tease and no more... I see no harm in how this site is mod and run, if anything one could say staff are ocassionally picky and sarcastic (With often good reason) so why not, they don't get paid to answer morons but they do anyway (so yay for them!)

I used to run a forum (never wanted it, never made it, just my followers decided to do so add me then make me admin?!)

I soon worked out being mod/admin is actual real work, work in the real world people get paid to do... i let anyone argue bicker, i let anyone challenge me and I honestly believed being open and honest would be the best way but people who used the rival software would get on and flame and cause wars and i'd never delete just challenge their views and opinions and when you've exhausted all avenues they lie, i never met so many pathological liars in my life!

So kudos to the mod/admins, nobody else would do real work without being paid

Well i just bought one....

I'll make a board like that, plug it in, load in the binaries (in chinese i think lol, this should be fun!) and upload to the attiny85 without the need of an arduino!

Fun :-s lol

ahhhh got it, thanks for the info always wondered how it worked ....

no, the question is, can i, how do i? is it possible to be able to read keyboard input from other USB keyboards on the computer a leonardo is plugged into?

Also if you're still wondering what the hell i'm on about.

http://codeandlife.com/2012/03/03/diy-usb-password-generator/

I want to build that - just waiting on the Resistors and Diodes and 2 ATTiny85's and the proto boards, so i can build one myself, but it's all from HK 2 weeks is now 3 weeks.

anyway, how about hacking the atmel chip or library to read input from usb not just send?

not actually bought one lol... just wondering where and how ... so the ribbon cable simply goes to the correct places on the attiny85? got it...

Since i have a rule about buying products online when i know i can buy them from an electronics shop...

Sooo i was at jaycar, so i bought a LeoStick, basically, it's identical to how the real board works, same pins and everything only it comes with a speaker and an RGB SMD LED fun to play with for all of 5 minutes.

so then.. I tried the keyboard example, it worked. bored

Then i remember to a guy on youtube making an attiny85 act as a virtual usb host a HID. - now he made his attiny85 able to get keyboard input as well as control/send, how come this is not implemented in the custom library? or is there a reason? or is there a hack to make it readable of other keyboards and mice.

I want to read the keys if i get a tab key (from real keyboard on usb) then it records a macro, >>> mypassword [enter]  then when he plugged it in, it would simply type his password and login, he pulled the usb stick out and back in his pocket it went until next time he got a new password (tab tab) and i thought hell that's fun to try so i ordered all the parts required but it's 2 weeks later still not arrived so what the hell! i bought a leostick.

so anyway of reading in an actual keyboard's USB data? or is that a no go, wait for my bloody 63 ohm resistors and my 4.6v diodes you say.... well i thought i could do all this measily $2.85 chip but for $29! but i guess no.. but still very fun to play with - supports all the normal pins infact i'll take a picture



quickly hooked up a light diode and fed it to serial on it.


..



but this thing is tiny as and very fun..

but if you can't read other usb keyboards with it, waste of money really, i'll wait 2 more yawn weeks for the attiny and use v-hub

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-ISP-ASP-Programmer-ATMEL-AVR-ATMega-ATTiny-51-Development-Board-/270998585847?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f18c641f7

This claims to program them, but where's that cable go to? the ISP header on an Arduino? or do i just push in an ATTiny85 into the out of that ribbon cable and program it like that?

OR  i shall just stick to the ISP arduino sketch and upload like that... :-s

Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UafkD-TvfXQ

It goes brighter but my power supply was maxing out at 5 amps at 5v :O

How's this for a project, 2 DC brushless motors, a mounted solar panel on top of the trash/rubbish bin, tucked away somewhere a 12v small 7A/h battery which the solar panel charges, right then, the hard part
a metal rail, depending on how far you wish to go, embedded into concrete..


The bin has an Ardino, it knows what the time and date is, and when it's the bins time to need to be emptied, it turns on it's motors and slowly goes down the rail to the path to the side of the road, a latch relay triggers off and pulls a pin out allowing the rubbish truck to pick up the bin (either using a tilt sensor or accelerometer, or simply select a time you know it will be empty by 9am, 12pm, or once it gets picked up into the air and placed back down again ...

The other tricky part is guiding the bin back onto the rail if the pickup truck does not place it back exactly how it should be....maybe some kind of hall sensor, 2 of them to detect where it needs to move to so it can lock in and guide it's way back to base bin station lol... bluetooth/wifi support, place it out on demand, wet, rain, whatever, never miss it! give it an IP address and check to see if your bin got emptied lol

So then who want's to build one?

Why settle for a ford mondeo when for an extra few bucks you could buy a ford GT ..

is it not better to "have" than have not?

Zoomkat, fair enough and how many Watt rating is that?

5v * 1amp = 5watt power supply
vs
20-50W Max (so i'll reflect the min/max)
10-11v (after rectifier DC output and cap)

20W/11.5v = 1.73amps
50W/11.5 =  4.34 amps

20W/(11.5v > Regulator > 7V) (Recommended regulator voltage , which drops it down to 3/5v for the board) = 2.8amps
50W/(11.5v > Regulator > 5V) (not so good, as it stresses the regulator out) = 10 amps

?? 10 amps?  am i doing this right..

20w/7v = 2.8?
50w/5v = 10amps.

sounds kinda right, but that's a lot of power for AU $2.19 (Free postage)

Have you tried a felt / marker type pen?


"Ok, how do I print "0" or "1" if the button on pin 53"

pin 53? if (digitalRead(53)==true)
 {
    Serial.println("Pin 53 is true");
 //sort of, is it printlin or writeln, i can never remember unless front of the IDE.
}

12v is a lot more managable, I think the regulator of a standard arduino accepts up to 17v's so a 12v supply would be perfect as it would then supply you both
your 3v 5v rails and 5v logic pins.. but, you also have a high power source 12v with a high current you can use the lower 3-5v to switch on and off with power mosfets
and Power Transistors.

[edit] just noticed it's an AC out, even better, use 2 diodes to rectifiy the signal to dc, and you'll have something more like 9-10volts DC out, almost perfect voltage for a typical
arduino board (2 diodes, 20cents each..)

Any voltage you need, just buy a regulator for that voltage?...

Or am i missing it?