No THAT WON'T WORK. It Might not self destruct but it certainly wot work as you really wan't. The only thing that keeps both transistors from destruction is the value of the NPN base resistor it prevents the PNP from drawing enough base current to destroy irself. You are missing the base current limiting resistor for the PNP transistor and the base resistor for the NPN is too big by 2 orders of magnitude. Make the PNP base resistor 470R leave the 10K in place and change the NPN base resistor to 1K. You may very well have problems with the PNP as It is really the wrong package and device, read my previous post carefully. I gave you the results of 6 month's of research and experimentation with both  2 wire and 3 wire solenoids.

Doc

No I've enclosed a data sheet for the MMBT2907 and although the Ic for both the leadded part and the SMT part are the same the Pd of the MMBT part is only 325 mW. there are some high gain non darlington devices made by Zetex that would work better. Choose one in a TO-223 or bigger package. You might also consider andding add a snubber across the coil, I used a 330nF capacitor in series with a 4R7 ohm resistor. The Snubber's purpose is to safely absorb both the positive and negative spikes created when the magnetic field in the solenoid collapses. The field will return about 90% of the energy put into it and it will wing several hundred volts negative them about 1/3 of that back positive so use a high voltage transistor capable of at least 2 watts (the TO-39 case is preferred the TO-18 is IMO too Small and again IMO the TO-39 is ok for 300 mA and the TO-18 100 mA) You Might also consider a Pch Mosfet with a  < 1 ohm Rds_on in an SO-8 or SOT-223 style case. Post your final circuit. before you start to commit to board. Perhaps you might get some advice that you can use to insure your design is as good as it can be, many of us here have some to a lot of experience in this area...

Doc

Not really possible because yu have to keep track of original sync time/phase and switch when the orignating synch/time becomes  lost/unusable...

Doc
 

Producing a "Blue Screen" is a complex undertaking, For plain Video, NTSC or Computer> for NTSC (Never the Same Color... twice) you only need to generate the horiz and vert sync signals and the color signal necessary for blue. That's easy,,, the trick is to re-insert the signals in place of the other "Crashed" one and do so in the same EXACT PHASE as the ones that created the original video signal that you are trying to "recover" without that you will totally corrupt the existing signal, which is corrupted already and why the picture is "Pixelated". It is time determinant and possible but nearly impossible in practice without studio type gear. Which is network time determinate already since now most major video feeds are locked to a standard atomic time clock. Good Luck in the Contest...

Doc

Analog values, different value resistors. Yes it can easily be done... But for a different reason, Why? are you trying for AI... to beat the game?

Doc

It is also a good idea to do some real research first... before asking for help, Just so you can "Properly" frame the questions, like the abilities of an Arduino, It's ability to write to an SD card is a limit but so is the sd card for real time video work. there is also the thought that it is the same technology as the EEPROM in the Arduino and thus write time limited which is likely to be an issue.

Doc

The SUMP Project... the rest are thieves or opportunists... Although $50.00 doesn't sound extravagant to me... I just hope it is an accurate copy......

Doc

At that point the charger IC 'flips' from CC mode to CV mode to limit the max voltage the battery will see from the charger. Kinda a float charge.

Doc

Both, the voltage is limited to the max charged value and the current is limited to the max possible without heating the battery beyond a set point which is determined by the battery physically and the chemistry... Look at your cell phone battery terminals the third lead is either connected to a monitor circuit or a diode. The Monitor can tell the charger what kind of battery as well as the other required information temp, voltage and log it's performance as well. Some monitors are just simple thermistors or PN junctions, BE junction of a transistor or a plain SI diode...

Doc

They'res a a whole bunch of Gas Gauge chips for Li-Po batteries... about 136000 results in .35 seconds (I have a slow internet connection) Here is one.
TEXAS INSTRUMENTS - BQ27210DRKRG4 - IC, BATTERY GAS GAUGE, LI-ION, VSON-10 From Newark and I am wondering why re-invent a wheel that is already invented.
Take the results from any of these IC's and set a lower limit for warning.

Doc

I agree with you BUT the subject was a simple Switcher... Not a fully orchestrated project. In "Shopping" I take the information offered and use it later when it is available. Some don't offer data until you buy the product unfortunately. One of my big issues is learning, You Never know when something might be valuable.   IMO

Doc

No sadly I would have done it differently. In production you bend everything to fit together, choices are and and changed as conditions require rather than deciding to address the connectors after the board is finished. If you expect the wires to move in use then provide for the movement by using one or more of the methods I mentioned. You can buy wire with as many conductors as required If you have a situation that requires that kind of wire then you might re-think what you are doing or order a "custom" cable (expensive for a "One of" type of device or product). The ferrules are very nice but in  the long run rather expensive as you must have some kind of crimper to use them or worse tin the wires in production. Soldering or "Tinning" the wire ends is ok IF you have a situation where the wires don't move (Wire clamps) but effectively makes solid wire and worse IF you have "Nicked" a wire or two in stripping the wire you have started the breaking process. I am totally spoiled as I have used strippers that are nick free all my life (They strip Teflon as well as Kevlar easily too) but they are expensive as they are used to strip wires intended for aircraft production... I don't think that the ferrules are the final answer as they only provide an "Interface" rather than a direct solution. If you can immobilize the wires, use the ferrules... they look real nice but they add little to the integrity of the job.

Doc

The shielded wire is a must but unless those wires are twisted together you don't really have cross-talk issues. The voltages you report don't make sense unless signal and ground wires are transposed on your drawing. I seriously doubt that you connected the piezo's together and then twisted all the wires together. the "normal" ones I an used to have shielded cables from the factory (Piezo's for car burglar alarm's) and those don't cross talk at all. Spacings of a half inch or 12 - 3 mm would drop the levels by 10 db and I don't see in the data anything that resembles cross-talk in your measurements at all.

Doc

You can buy cheap crimpers for those JST or Hirose connectors in the low $80.00 range. there are several drawbacks to that connector including the fact that they are really used for assembled modules and NOT as a readily and easily removable, robust device for the experimenter as they are rather fragile as well. They were meant to plug and essentially forget type of connector... IMO
I used them once in the devices I made and only because it would have cost more to replace them with the connectors "normally" used in my production devices. They were a pain to use as well.

Doc

So does the whole SUMP Project... follow the links and read... This really looks the Bomb... I'm flat impressed there's a lot of bang for $50.00

Doc