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1831  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: My first PCB design with ATmega328P-PU, will this work? on: September 05, 2012, 11:31:13 pm
The way it should be done. Now what's this 4.85V under full load... The No Load voltage is?...  3% regulation now. (Vnl/Vl - 1 = .0309 or 3.09 % dern good Sir.
Did you occasion to put a scope on the Vcc Line to see if it was clean?
Great Work

Doc
1832  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Eagle question - How do I fix pins in a symbol in place? on: September 05, 2012, 07:20:03 pm
After 20 years with Protel... From Ver 3 to 9... Eagle leaves something to be desired... After 20 minutes with that Program I know less than when I started.
Protel has a set of sheets from A to E for schematics. PCB's are easy too... Draw an outline of the board on the keep out layer and one on the top legend layer and then import the netlist...
The sheets are customizable with company name a graphic or logo, Engineer or Draftsman, Ver... I couldn't find anything similar in Eagle.
I can understand the popularity of the program... Eagle Standard @ $820.00 for a single user or eagle light @ 62 Euro's... But in 20 minutes I couldn't figure how to place a simple sheet compared to 10 seconds...
I guess I am just dumb... however I can make a schematic in Autocad easier than Eagle. I guess it's just what you are familiar with... Think I'll stick with Altium.

Doc
 
1833  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Basic Capacitor Question on: September 04, 2012, 11:11:12 pm
After all is said... The only thing that flows through an Electrolytic... Is AC. With DC once equilibrium is reached the only current that flows is leakage current.

Doc
1834  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Speaker or line-out jack... on: September 04, 2012, 12:14:45 pm
Yeah, I caught that the first time through. However it doesn't fit with his original goals, to provide a line output function that could be switched by plugging something into a newly made lone out jack.

Doc
1835  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Speaker or line-out jack... on: September 03, 2012, 11:30:58 pm
Lefty.. there is a small issue there... what happens if some genius plugs a real AC adapter into the connector... some times it is best to start with the right hardware to begin. That was why I kept hammering the switched 'low level' audio. someone suggested putting some current through the jack so it could be "sensed", the major issue with that is in "Sensing" when the speaker was plugged in... the sense current would need to be an appreciable part of the main audio signal. I am of the opinion that it is usually bad work to try to save a few pennies or Worse... Time by these types of "Methods". In the time we have spent trying to solve the issue he could have the right installed and on to the next job.

Doc
1836  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Arduino Uno R3 doesn't work, XP, error on: September 03, 2012, 11:13:41 pm
Comm 2 is a 'regular' serial port (3E8?)... he needs to open up that yellow flagged entry and fix it, XP hasn't installed the correct driver. 're install the driver, point it to the drivers in the main Arduino folder... Worked for me... win 7, 86 & 64....

Doc
1837  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: int as a variable, not a pin on: September 03, 2012, 10:45:53 pm
Well int 'usually' refer to numbers... see Any numbers there?

Doc
1838  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: .pde to .ino, what replaces BYTE on: September 03, 2012, 12:08:10 pm
Lefty, that is exactly the way I learned. I got/get comparatively little from what I read relative to the Arduino. I however do have a Renassas low power Dev Kit, a STM32 dev kit and one of those Motorola MSP430 dev kits, I was hoping to learn the language from the Arduino so as to have an "easy" jump start to a more "complete" language set. Instead I fear I''ve just painted myself into an interesting corner, A corner nevertheless.
What of the "New" Arduino... my understanding so far is that it will support a more complete language set, certainly a different programming environment than an Uno Or a Mega (An UNO on steroids?). What import will the "Xmega" chips have on this scenario and is there any thought of comparability from the new "Arduino" to the products that exist now. What of the IDE, 1.01 is in some ways better BUT it still lacks a great deal.
All in all it will be an entertaining year but I don't see spending my time on anything as crippled as the Arduino. It is my impression that the Arduino was intended more as a teaser to get the young interested in computer science... however the money spent on the Arduino isn't trivial and for the most part IMO not the best investment a youngster could make. Only the bare essential peripherals are really re-usable and for a lot of them, why bother because with a better MCU the parts become as they were before the Arduino Craze,,, Stagnant Surplus with little market. Who would want to pay $139.00 for a 4.3" 4D Systems GLCD when the real full sized item is available for pennies on the dollar as NOS today. It is only the market that has placed any value on the junk we buy today and when a new market jumps up there will be a NEW Gold Rush... The Gold Rushing from our pockets.
Then too there are the things like the Raspberry Pi. There were a lot of people I should think that now regret poking fun at that device... Not because it has any merit but because of the Money Potential involved...
It will be for me more what I cam do with a more versatile device. The Pi unfortunately and it's educational potential will always get second billing...
While I realize that my learning time isn't entirely wasted... Its a mighty limited intro into a complex language and little of what I learn is truly portable or really useful when applied to any of the "Bigger and newer" processors and their hardware/language sets. Witness the Basic Stamps... GREAT for recreation But hardly a package that EVER became popular because of the Electronics Learning end... Same here with Arduino.
I routinely run into people who would rather use an 18 pin IC to replace 2 transistors... Mainly because the package doesn't appear to be as difficult to use as the two parts... Never mind that it might have 6 other inputs that must be dealt with... It seems to be the learning or at least this is my experience in answering questions in General Electronics that comes so hard. Given a schematic diagram and the reasons why the method is easier... 70% of them will opt for an IC rather than do simple things like learn Ohm's Law.... Code engineers are a set apart from Electronics engineers.
Well Another Day in Paradise... Is upon us.

Doc
1839  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Dry Tip Cleaner on: September 03, 2012, 01:37:42 am
Both Weller (for the TCP series) and Hakko recommend against filing the tips as it removes the plating that will take solder (tinnable plating) I wonder if the abrasive does the same thing.
That being said I will try the Ersin product.
They, in my not so humble opinion make the best lead tin solder (really the flux I think) I have ever used (it was also the first solder I used...
When I was 14 I passed my Mil Spec soldering test and that was the solder used so more likely than anything else it is a sentimental thing.
 As to the "Brass" cleaner by Hakko, one came with the iron and I love it, I have both and distilled water for the sponge as well (prevents lime from building up on the sponge and they last about 5 times as long).
 The "Brass Cleaner" seems to do as good a job as the sponge and it 'keeps' the residue trapped... no solder balls and crumbs to be cleaned from the work place.

Doc
1840  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Jumper Wires For Finished Project on: September 03, 2012, 01:10:37 am
The easiest method I have EVER found is to VERY carefully pry off the pin separator and them heat each pin to melt the solder and  I usually just bang them against my left leg. The pin is knocked out and usually most of the solder.
 I do it this way because that causes the pin and hole to be heated the least amount. If I really need the hole clean, I have an old towel I put on my leg and heat a second time to melt the solder and it will 9 of 10 times completely clean the hole.
The exception being pins soldered to the ground plane even with thermal relief's... are harder to clean. The other method I use is to again remove the pin separator and heat the pin and with a pair of needle nose pliers pull the pin and then use a solder sucker or wick to clean the hole, Either way you don't have the pin heated for more than 3 or 4 seconds for both the pin removal and the subsequent solder removal.
This is compared to as much as 15 seconds to heat both the pin and the solder wick or to re-heat the pin if the solder sucker or wick doesn't work the first time.
Speaking of solder wick I sometimes "make" my own.
A very useful thing to have on the bench is a soldering flux sold by Radio Shack Part# 64-022. It is make by Kester and packaged for Radio Shack. It is a rosin flux in a petroleum jelly base.
Perfect for SMT components (it's purpose, I think) I've used the commercial product from Kester and the Radio Shack product and there is no difference.
Great for "dipping" an SMT part into (With Tweezers) as it is Very messy if you let it get away from you... Dip the part and solder it to one pre-tinned pad then solder the other one.
The shield from RG174 or '316 co-ax is perfect for solder wick on the cheap. Dip a piece of shield braid into the flux and go remove solder. It is also great for solder rework/removal.
I recently bought a 220Vac Hakko soldering iron from Electrodragom. A discontinued 936 to replace my severely aging 926 and it is a great iron. I made the purchase because I had a 110 to 220 V step up transformer in my junk bin and I don''t think it would take much at all to convert it to 120Vac. The iron cost me $50.00, a "New Hakko 888 is $85.00+ and that yellow/purple colored case looks horrible.
I would rather work with the nice black and gold 936 case than the new 888... regardless of the price... it even uses the same parts as (Mostly) the 926/36 (iron and controller)
I am sure I can buy an appropriate transformer for $10-$15.00.
Bosity (Ebay) or Uxwell has 900/26/36 series tips @ $1.00 ea (10 for $9.95 Free Shipping).
They are a great assortment for conventional SMT, Repair and Production.
The kit contains several tips fine enough for MSOP a 'knife blade' for flicking SMT resistors and caps off the board as well as the conical chisel types that are best for production (better heat flow) and they are Identical to the $6 - $7.00 tips sold in the United States.

Doc
1841  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: .pde to .ino, what replaces BYTE on: September 02, 2012, 11:47:39 pm
Yeah it IS... I have Prata's books on C & C++ and "A Book on C" and I get so confused I sometimes just want to quit reading anything. Beyond the real basics, precedence and basic rules of syntax and "grammar" they are more confusing than they were really worth. For all the good I got from "A Book..."
 I could have checked it out of the library and been done with it in a week... Instead of paying $18.++ for a really used book.
 cout << "I Quit" << end1; ...  printf(%s.... REALLY useful stuff. Struct's Unions and Enumerators... Pointers...
I finally realized they were a LOT more complicated than values and addresses...
Still makes me "Slightly Crazy" and I force myself to read 2 hours a day... Too.
I now know slightly more C & C++ than could be legibly engraved on the head of a Pin... And as was pointed out I learned 95% of it in the forum and a couple of Arduino specific books.

Doc
1842  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Goertzel or FFT for reliable DTMF Decoding on: September 02, 2012, 06:54:37 pm
 A Mitel MT8870 will give you 4 bit binary outputs and a data ready signal. The device contains the filters for the high and kw frequencies and decode @ < 100mV. I included thee data sheet and I've seen them on Ebay for $3 - $4.00. Much easier than devoting such a large piece of the code space for decoding... another note is that there are DTMF generators that use the same crystal... If you choose another time base only you could easily decode them. This was a common method for semi secure radio based remote control. I used it when building my first amateur radio repeater for shut down and phone patch control.

Doc
1843  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Speaker or line-out jack... on: September 01, 2012, 04:04:40 pm
I stand corrected and I apologize for misleading you, I ASSUMED you meant stereo audio. A single circuit switch jack will do what you want to do for a monaural source. The suggestions about sensing when something is plugged in won't work as the sense signal... becomes part of the audio signal too. This idea has no merit...
From Magician: "Continuity testing usually works by passing a small amount of current throw 'through' a load"...
The "Load" is the Audio Amplifier input, not a place where you would want anything but Audio.
Re-read the post from me that begins "Quick one word answer NO. You have 4  2 wires that need to go to the jack...
The connection  methods would be the same however, just two wires less. Trying to use the speaker audio presents another issue as what "Switches" off the speakers when the Line In plug is inserted?.

Doc
1844  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: Turbo charger controller advice. on: September 01, 2012, 03:34:35 pm
I intended you to filter the 12V supply well and clamp it so that noise wouldn't be as severe as without the suggestions. and as I mentioned place a small capacitor "You have a source follower for the RPM data input... try a 1nF cap to ground from the source" (missing "across the 10K source resistor"). I did now (Finally) see a major mistake. In any control sutuation the grounding method should follow a star topology, that is all grounds must radiate or start at one common point and I don't see that done on your drawing nor do I see where the Arduino ground is connected... to anything. I am led to believe it must be the power connector on the board because you just don't show it. You don't show how the Arduino is powered at all and this point might well be central to the whole issue
Any spikes present on the gate of the Mosfet Must be transferred to the source circuit. Even though the Drain is tied to +5V it won't be dumped into the 5V source (the only place it can go except the input to the Arduino). A .1uF cap right at the drain lead, physically close to the drain. The issue comes back to the original design of the Arduino, It was meant to be a teaching device... Not a general purpose "Brick" for any control operation required... So when attempting to use it as a brick the user must be knowledgeable enough about the environment it is used in so as to be able to compensate or correct the "interface" between the Arduino and it's working environment. An Opto isolator is a solution. replace the 10K resistor with a 1K resistor and the opto... connect the transistor (collector) side of it from Vcc to a 10 K resistor and then to the Arduino input. You will have the same circuit as before. Presently when the gate of the 'fet is high so is it's source and thus the led in the opto will be on turning on the 5V source to the Arduino input. The other thing I don't see is any kind of a circuit that indicated any planning or fore-knowledge of an automobile's operating environment. Your drawing is more a statement of present conditions than it is a guide to a well thought out plan of action (Lack of power source for the Arduino, lack of any conditioning of the 12V source connected to the elements controlled by the Arduino. Primary side Sloane Kettering ignitions (Points and coil not electronic) versions can and DO have spikes many thousands of volts in intensity. There are Electronic ignitions that place 200 to 600V on the coil primary (Capacitor Discharge types). The Electronic ignitions use a magnetic sensor that produces a pulse that drives the controller to fire the spark plugs. That pullse can be upwards of 100V. Remember the points are now 4 6 or 8 "Lobes" on a shaft... causes a change  in the magnetic path when each "lobe" is adjacent the sensor coil. I've never seen a distributor that had TTL level outputs for engine RPM.
Since I don't see any formalization of plan and scope of this project I can only think you are creating it as you go along.
Good engineering Starts with an accurate plan... The instructions for building the device and when you deviate from the plan then you are working without planning exactly what you wish to achieve.There is an old design maxim... "Plan your Work, then Work your plan". IMO

Doc
1845  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: How would I Set and Clear on: September 01, 2012, 12:41:31 pm
I fixed it...
I just threw it away as a bad receiver

Doc
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