Uploading with upload.verbose on:
-v -v -pm168 -cstk500v1 -P\\.\COM4 -b19200 -D -Uflash:w:C:\Users\Andrew\Documents\Arduino\test_blink\applet\test_blink.hex:i



avrdude: Version 5.4-arduino, compiled on Oct 11 2007 at 19:12:32
         Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/

         System wide configuration file is "C:\dev\arduino\arduino-0012\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf"

         Using Port            : \\.\COM4
         Using Programmer      : stk500v1
         Overriding Baud Rate  : 19200
avrdude: ser_open(): setting dtr
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Send: 0 [30]   [20]
avrdude: Recv:
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: Send: Q [51]   [20]
avrdude: Recv:
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

avrdude done.  Thank you.
-----------
Sounds like same issue as "Re: avrdude: not in sync again"
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Swapped ATMEGA168, downloaded and got some error message.

[Arduino Diecimila with Vista]

IDE reports:
Binary sketch size: 1124 bytes (of a 14336 byte maximum)

avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

---------
Arduino IDE is 0012 Alpha.

Uploading works properly with a diecimila. I have two and can just swap them.

LED lights with both boards follow:

Arduino Diecimila with Vista
On power up, the PWR LED goes green. The L LED blinks irregularly for about 3 seconds, goes on for about 1/2 second and then executes the previously loaded sketch.

Blinks 3 times rapidly, goes dark for about 15 seconds, resumes the last loaded sketch.

Arduino Duemilanove with Vista
On power up, the PWR LED goes green.
The L LED
 blinks once quickly
 is off for about 1 second
 blinks 3 times, 3 times, 3 times, 2 times over about 3 seconds
 goes dark for about 1/2 second
 blinks rapidly forever.
The TX and RX lights blink 3 times.

Pressing reset causes the L LED to blink rapidly forever.
The TX and RX lights stay dark.

I'm guessing the rapid blinking is the last uploaded sketch running.
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Does the rapid blinking of the LED on reset indicate a problem with the bootlegger?

I've used my Arduino Diecimila for several weeks, but now it won't download a sketch from my Vista PC.

Here is what happens"
1) On power up:
    power led goes on.
    tx and rx blink for a couple of seconds, then go dark
2) On upload sketch:
 tx and rx blink for 10-20 seconds, then go dark
 L blinks
 No errors on PC, but nothing works.
3) Upload again,
 L continues to blink
PC reports "Problem uploading board"
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

How is this debugged? Should board be replaced or bootloader reprogrammed? Is it worth replacing ATMEGA168 chip rather than whole board?

Look at the pic: http://www.ladyada.net/images/spokepov/make/cutled.jpg

The row of LEDs facing down has been inserted. You can't see the LEDs, but you can see the leads which are ready to be soldered and clipped. The row of LEDs facing up go in the top row of circles.

And the parts lists says 60 high intensity LEDs. Each row has 30.

This also answers your question about row positioning. It apparently does not matter if you shift the row parallel to the spoke.

The horrible one I made was visible during daylight, but much more dramatic at night. The pics of SpokesPOV look light dusk and dark.

I'm sure AdaFruit spent some time seeing which LEDs mounted at which angles worked best. I think she put 2 rows of leds, one facing right and one facing left: http://www.ladyada.net/make/spokepov/make.html

This has less info, but sounds like the same general idea:
http://www.hokeyspokes.com/faquestions.htm

Are you making a pcb? Do you make them yourself or send them out?

Right, but it's $99 a wheel. That's $400 just for my kids bikes.

An arduino with 8 LEDs is easy. The hard part of doing a project like SpokePOV or Hokey Spokes is supporting more LEDs and synchronizing multiple spokes.

Synchronizing multiple spokes is needed to obtain persistance without spinning so fast. Supporting 25-30 LEDs is difficult because of the wiring. How do you wire an atMega, 4 8-bit latches and ~30 leds without a PCB? The wiring gets a bit messy.

And you can't ignore cost. With three spokes per wheel, you are looking at 6 spokes per bike. I've got 4 bikes.

Some kind of open source pcb, group buy is needed...

codeRobo,

What are you thinking of making? A friend of mine was thinking of making a simulator for bee attacks.

Encoders or dead reckoning should prove accurate to 20%. The big disadvantage is that slippage won't be picked up. You might consider something like this for direction (but not distance): http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/701 I don't think there is a cheap solution. :-[

It sounds like your home built Arduino is working properly. I assume it does something like send serial diagnostics to your computer or lights an led to confirm this?

Make sure you have the right pin. It's easy to mess up the mappings when they are not labeled on the pcb. You could connect an led and download a sketch to blink it real quick. I'd also try another pin just in case their is an issue with that one and check connectivity on all lcd connections with voltmeter.

But to answer your question about bread board wiring, we really need a picture of it (or a schematic). Can you post a pic?

Infrared can work 30 ft plus. Try a better led and receiver. For 360 degree support, you may want multiple leds and receivers. There are several threads on this forum discussing this.

Have you made any progress on the ultrasound portion? What parts were you thinking of using?

The bot goes 1 meter/second. That sounds pretty quick. Is that right?

Here are some Vishay ICs for IrDA: http://www.mouser.com/Vishay/_/N-1z0zls5Zscv7Zlls6?Keyword=IrDA The data sheets explain their usage.

Here is a general description from Vishay: http://www.vishay.com/docs/82513/physical.pdf

I didn't realize RF was so sensitive. Over what range does RF RSSI work?

I had the wrong diagram referenced, but I see you have the right one now. The same comments still hold: First get the h-bridge to work without the Arduino or motor. Apply fixed voltages to bridge inputs and measure the output with a voltmeter. Then connect it to the motors and see if you can make it spin. When you test in this way its much easier to understand what is going on and troubleshoot.