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11896  Community / Website and Forum / Re: [SOLVED] Can I attach pics into my post? on: January 30, 2011, 06:03:06 pm
Testing for direct attachments: Look closely, click on thumbnail, making pies!

That should be worth a good Karma or two.  smiley-grin

11897  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: arduino mega + 2x SM-s4303R Servos problem on: January 30, 2011, 05:39:24 pm
Hi i would like the servos to move the legs of the spider back and forth please see image link. In stationary mode the servos are at 90 degrees. When the spider moves one leg goes forward (180 from 90) and one leg goes backward (0 from 90) to create motion.

http://postimage.org/image/j7crzmjo/

Thanks

Then you have the wrong servos for that job. Your servos have been modified for continous rotation and because of that they are not now using their internal pot as a position feedback sensor and will not perform as you want. The ones you have are designed to continously rotate at a desired speed, in either direction, or stopped.

Your application requires standard unmodified servos.

Lefty

11898  Using Arduino / General Electronics / Re: New switching regulator on it's way on: January 30, 2011, 05:31:31 pm
I've ordered from Satistronics in the past and they have been quite good. I even have two of the aforementioned DC-DC switching power supplies, if you buy directly from Satistronics, you pay about $3 less each.

Have you been happy with the supplies? Do they seem to meet all the specs given?

11899  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Power outage sensor solution on: January 30, 2011, 02:27:51 pm
Quote
You're going to need a resistor on that red LED.


How did I miss that, me being the resistor Czar and all.  smiley-lol

Yes, please add a series resistor to your red led immediately, 200-500 ohms. As it is your poor output pin 13 is screaming in agony anytime you turn it on and you will soon lose all functionality of that pin.

Lefty
11900  Community / Website and Forum / Re: Karma on: January 30, 2011, 02:21:41 pm
Quote
This is a nerd/geek forum, if a female was brave enough to post a question, Im sure there would be 100+ answers   


And knowing this group, she would just end up giving them all negative Karma and leave, never to return.  smiley-lol
11901  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problem using a "Hall switch" on: January 30, 2011, 02:11:07 pm
Quote
If you still have yours available could you let me know what markings it had on it?


 I bought my Allegro hall effect sensors about a year ago from an E-bay seller. I bought both 5 each of their analog sensor and switch sensor. Part number and device markings are:

Allegro analog hall sensor part # A1323LUA-T  Device marking = 23L

Allegro digital switch sensor part # A3213EWA Device marking = 13E


Lefty         
11902  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problem using a "Hall switch" on: January 30, 2011, 01:46:30 pm
I can't explain all the wavy hands and proximity stuff you are seeing. I have used that same sensor and it just worked as expected.

Perhaps you should add a bypass filter capacitor of .1ufd (or larger) between the hall effects Vcc pin and ground pin. I don't see anything wrong with your sketch.

Quote
Edit: You might try using a diffenet output pin for the led and change your code to match as maybe you damaged the pin 13.

Lefty
 
11903  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Power outage sensor solution on: January 30, 2011, 01:39:05 pm
Your proposal sounds reasonable to me.

 Another method would be to use a simple 120ac coil relay. Wire the relay coil to your 120vac power and then wire the contact common terminal to arduino ground and the normally open contact to a input pin. Enable the internal pull-up for the input pin. Then when the AC power is removed the pin will read as a HIGH and if AC power is avalible the pin will read as a LOW.

Lefty
 



11904  Using Arduino / Programming Questions / Re: Communication between Arduino and PC on: January 30, 2011, 01:31:01 pm
Can't say anything on the PC side as I'm not that good at PC programming. However on your Arduino side your code seems to wait for a '1' character and turns on the led. It will then stay on forever no matter what other characters you receive. Was that your intentions? Perhaps a else clause added to the second if statement to turn off the led if any character other then a '1' is received?

Lefty
11905  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problem using a "Hall switch" on: January 30, 2011, 01:23:30 pm
I also don't see a series resistor wired to your led going to pin 13? You should either remove the led and just watch the on-board pin 13 led, or wire in a series with a resistor of say 200-500 ohms. You are in danger of destroying your output pin 13 as it is screaming in pain every time you turn it on.

Lefty
11906  Community / Website and Forum / Re: Karma on: January 30, 2011, 01:08:33 pm
Again I still think just eliminating the negative karma count is all that is required. It will just add too much noise to the postings and start arguments and ill feelings all around at worst. The positive karma is OK, as it's a simple way for new comers to say 'thank you' if they wish. If you really want to convert to a single karma count as a algebraic sum of negative and positive karma counts, that too would be an improvement to what we have today.

Displaying negative Karma is just asking for problems. Or put another way what problem are we trying to solve where displaying negative Karma counts is the proper solution?

Lefty
11907  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Decoding thermistor characteristics table on: January 30, 2011, 12:51:37 pm
Thermistor are available with either negative temperature coefficient or positive temperature coefficient factors. The NTC is a negative variety. How the thermistor is wired in the voltage divider (either top of bottom element) also effects the direction of voltage change Vs temperature change.

Lefty
11908  Using Arduino / Sensors / Re: Problem using a "Hall switch" on: January 30, 2011, 12:41:25 pm
Ok I think you have two problems:

1. Remove that resistor and wire your +5vdc breadboard voltage directly to the Vcc pin of the hall sensor.
    Why did you think you needed a series resistor? Perhaps you meant to wire the resistor as a pull-up by
    wiring it between the sensor signal and Vcc pins. But you have it in series with +5vdc?

2. The signal output from the sensor is a open drain type output, meaning that there is a pull-up resistor  
    required. The easist way to implement it is to just enable the internal pull-up for your input pin. Or you could  
    wire the removed resistor above and wire it correctly between signal and Vcc pins.

So in your setup function you have a:

           pinMode(hallpin, INPUT);                  //Declare Hall pin as input
Add this after that command:  
          digitalWrite(hallpin, HIGH) // turn on internal pull-up

Try those two changes and get back to us if it's working or not.

Lefty
11909  Using Arduino / Motors, Mechanics, and Power / Re: arduino mega + 2x SM-s4303R Servos problem on: January 30, 2011, 12:24:35 pm
Your servo is a modified servo (http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1248) and the modification results in it becoming a bidirectional variable speed motor, it really is no longer a servo, even though you control it with the servo library. It's best called a continous rotating servo not a 360 degree servo.

 Because of the modification you can no longer control where the servo will stop, just that you can make it stop. After a few control moves you will find that your modified servo will have no idea where it is in it's rotation. This modification is designed to use the servo as a direct drive wheel for moving about.

So there is a possiblity that this modified servo will not do what you want it to do. Can you explain what the servo is suppost to do in your project and maybe we can figure out something.

Lefty
11910  Development / Other Software Development / Re: bootloading with UNO and Arduino as ISP on: January 29, 2011, 11:17:13 pm
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I have also lowered the speed on the sketch to 2400

That won't help anything because the Arduino IDE will still try and talk to the Arduino as ISP board at 19200 baud, so that will prevent it from working all by itself, regardless of what else might be wrong with your setup.

Lefty
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