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1  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Help with a submarine on: Today at 01:10:19 am
May I just add that that thing looks wicked?
2  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: How to update 1000's of ardunio's on: September 17, 2014, 11:36:03 am
You can order preprogrammed Atmel chips from Atmel directly.
http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-42215-Production-Programming-of-Atmel-Microcontroller_AP-Note_AT06015.pdf

From the PDF:
Quote
Note that preprogramming services may require orders of a certain size.
Thousands could very well fit the description of "certain size", but you should obviously check it.
3  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: delay/wait loop vs using 555 timer? on: September 11, 2014, 01:18:55 am
You could always send the chip to sleep.
Nick Gammon has a nice overview of different modes on his page, including the wake up timer.
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11497
4  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Coding multiple led high low quickly on: September 07, 2014, 01:32:48 am
For fading you can use a for loop to get the transitions, but for the rest of the sequence, that really depends on the sequence itself.
If it is something regular and repetitive, then simple blink without delay approach for each LED will do just fine.
If it is something irregular, you'll need to tell the code what this irregularity looks like, so yes, each step for LED has to be defined.

This is the code I use to drive shift registers with some LEDs. The idea is to simulate turn signals on three cars. I didn't want the blinking to be synced so I introduced a slightly different periods for them to turn on and off. Those values are in an array. Addresses of shift register outputs are in another array. The for loop quickly goes through setting these three outputs to whatever they need to be and moves on to other parts of the code where it sets different pins according to some other logic.

Code:
#define numberOfBlinkers 3
int blinkers [] = {
  14, 16, 77};  

int blinkersTime [] = {
  500, 523, 549};  

void setBlinkers(){
  if (running == true)
  {  
    for (int i = 0; i < numberOfBlinkers; i++)
    {
      if (blinkersMillis[i] + blinkersTime[i] < millis() )
      {
        blinkersMillis[i] = millis();
        if (blinkersState [i] == LOW)
        {
          shifter.setPin (blinkers [i], HIGH);
        }
        else if (blinkersState [i] == HIGH)
        {
          shifter.setPin (blinkers [i], LOW);
        }
      }
    }
  }

5  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: RC plane project. on: September 05, 2014, 03:21:49 pm
>1km does not mean it doesn't work at closer ranges.

I would look at good quality brand name servos (Futaba, Graupner...) for anything that is flying.
For the radio, I'd go with standard radio control.
What do you want to do with the information from gyro and altimeter?
6  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Sensor Hall - Analog Read on: August 28, 2014, 04:59:12 pm
Unfortunately not.
The sensor itself outputs only high or low.

Take a look at the Figure 1 on the bottom of page 7.
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/1101/1101.pdf
7  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: how to use sleep function to save power on: August 28, 2014, 04:31:33 pm
Nick Gammon has a nice overview of various levels of sleep
http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11497.
8  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Powering LED Modules on: August 28, 2014, 12:53:16 am
A colleague of mine took care of PCB design itself and arranging the manufacturing. He piggybacked it on his larger project, so I'm not sure which company he used, but they were made locally (Croatia).
9  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: first DIY project: Building Archery chronograph and choosing parts on: August 26, 2014, 04:52:10 pm
Take a look at Chrony http://www.shootingchrony.com
10  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Powering LED Modules on: August 26, 2014, 04:34:37 pm
Just in case you're wondering, these are two of my modules connected.
The driving board connects on the left (not pictured), more can be chained on the right.
Power conducting pins are doubled. In my case, I'm using 12V (but can be anything up to 50V), so two pins are 12V, two are GND, one is 5V for logic and three are for data, clock and stuff.
Two 10 pin connectors are outputs - 8 drains per chip, one pin is 12V; one of the pins (top right in the picture) is blocked so the connector can't be inserted the wrong way.
Three big circles are mounting holes. There are brass tubes on the other side to lift the boards from the surface.
The big empty rectangular place in the middle top is for voltage regulator (78xx) so that each board can have different output voltage, however I later realized that this is not needed so input and output are bricker with a jumper.
11  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Etch-resistant thermometer. on: August 26, 2014, 10:33:41 am
Take a very small test tube (or other glass tube) fill it with etch resistant epoxy or silicone, stuff the thermal sensor in the still soft epoxy, fill up with more epoxy as needed to cover the leads and wire insulation. Drop the entire thing in the tank.
12  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: arduino box design for outdoor? on: August 26, 2014, 05:48:14 am
Depending on the material and manufacturing process, custom enclosures are quite expensive. If you need one box, probably a 3D printing service would be the cheapest, but I'm not sure about the quality of the materials you can get.
Injection molding is usually used for plastic boxes, but initial cost for the tools is quite high and setting up the production is usually done for tens or hundreds of thousands of units.
You could probably find a machine shop that would be able to make it out of sheet metal, if the shape of the box you want is doable.

The most reasonable way is to go to ebay and find an existing box and modify it to your needs.
13  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Non-contact electrodes for body fat measurements on: August 25, 2014, 12:51:16 pm
For capacitive sensor you can use any Arduino and don't need any kit.
All you need is one resistor, a piece of wire and a metal object that is being touched.
http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor?from=Main.CapSense
14  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Powering LED Modules on: August 25, 2014, 05:46:02 am
TPIC is a shift register, so no, you don't need 74HC. You drive it the same way as 74HC. The main difference is that TPIC can handle significantly higher currents.
15  Using Arduino / Project Guidance / Re: Powering LED Modules on: August 24, 2014, 03:50:42 pm
I'm using TPIC6B595 in what appears to be similar scenario to yours.
I have little boards with two 595s and connectors for each output. Boards also have connectors so that they can be connected one into another, as many as I need. I believe the most I chained was around 10 or 12 boards (20-24 registers). I have no problems.
There is no multiplexing, though.
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