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 1 
 on: Today at 04:24:17 pm 
Started by mister_dvc - Last post by Peter_n
I think there is something in your code that causes it.
Serial.print does not translate it to a string, and -'0' should make a binary number out of a digit in a string.
That are already two things that should be different than your result.

 2 
 on: Today at 04:24:00 pm 
Started by wcb98 - Last post by wcb98
thank you!

 3 
 on: Today at 04:23:40 pm 
Started by Magnanimo - Last post by Magnanimo
Bueno, tras una larga espera ya me llegó el Arduino Pro Mini y los demás módulos smiley-grin. Os cuento:

1.- Conecto el Arduino Pro Mini, ESTE, con el conversor usb, un C2102, ESTE, y luego al pc. Se enciende el LED POW del conversor usb y el LED rojo de la placa Arduino (he visto en otras placas que es verde) y otro LED marcado como L parpadeando cada 1 segundo.

Code:
Esquema de conexión:
DTR - DTR
TX0 - RX
RX1 - TX
VCC - 3.3v
GND - GND

2.- Descargo los drivers de http://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/pages/usbtouartbridgevcpdrivers.aspx  porque Win7 no los encuentra. Descomprimo e instalo 'CP210xVCPInstaller_x86.exe' al ser mi máquina de 32bits.
3.- Abro el IDE de Arduino 1.0.5-r2 y configuro los parámetros, en mi caso Tarjeta > Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3,3v, 8 MHz) w/ ATMega328 y Puerto serial > COM6.
4.- Cargo el sketch Blink (Archivo > Ejemplos > 01.Basics > Blink) y modifico los delays del LED a 5000.

Code:
/*
  Blink
  Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, repeatedly.
 
  This example code is in the public domain.
 */
 
// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards.
// give it a name:
int led = 13;

// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:
void setup() {               
  // initialize the digital pin as an output.
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT);     
}

// the loop routine runs over and over again forever:
void loop() {
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(5000);               // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(led, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
  delay(5000);               // wait for a second
}

5.- Pulso el botón 'Reset' de la placa arduino y sin soltar hago click en 'Cargar' del IDE Arduino mientras se ejecuta la compilación y suelto el botón cuando aparece 'Cargando...'

6.- A los 2 segundos más o menos el led TXD del conversor parpadea 3 veces, pasan sobre 7 segundos y me arroja esto el IDE:

Quote
Tamaño binario del Sketch: 1.108 bytes (de un máximo de 30.720 bytes)
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00

He probado al invertir el RX1 - TX y TX0 - RX1 a RX y TX0 - TX y sigue igual.

 4 
 on: Today at 04:21:27 pm 
Started by LastSamurai - Last post by skorpi08
Beziehungsweise was benutzt ihr denn, wenn ihr Kabel nicht fest verlöten wollt?

Die hier oder ähnliche:
http://www.musikding.de/Feder-Klemmleiste-3-polig-RM25

 5 
 on: Today at 04:20:58 pm 
Started by wcb98 - Last post by wcb98
I know its bad to use duct tape, but I hacked a usb cord so I can use it on a 2.5mm barrel. The wires will have 5v 2.1A running through them, will this melt the duct tape if I tape it with them? If so, then what else can I use to join the wires besides electrical tape?

 6 
 on: Today at 04:20:55 pm 
Started by twelch - Last post by twelch
You guys are awesome, I just spent the better part of my day trying to write the code for the three sensors. It seemed right logically and simple at first. But I realized that the program was moving way to fast for real world application. I started trying to figure it all out with debouncing the inputs and waiting for motion and everything else and now my head hurts. The more I tried to figure it out the more complex the code got and eventually it got away from me and turned into an undecipherable mess.
I deleted it all and  will start fresh in the morning.

BTW - the "tachometer" is working perfectly, measures RPM's up to 600 after that either the arduino or the sensor can't keep up not sure which but the adults aren't getting over 330, let alone the kids so all is good. 

 7 
 on: Today at 04:20:42 pm 
Started by BaBBuino - Last post by uwefed
@ lock; flameman, Carlo P., legacy, alollea ecc

Sia coerente a quello che dice oppure devo pensare che metá di quello che Lei dice sono bugié. Non ha scritto che ha recuperato i PM che Le servivano? Perché si ripresenti e scrive il contrario?

Perché scrive che non vuole piú avere a che fare con noi e poi Lei cercha la nostra vicinanza ritornando sul forum??? Vuole l' uno o l'altro???

Cosa fai Lei con un ospite da Lei non gradito? Immagino che lo invita a lasciare casa Sua. E se l' ospite ritorna con un altro vestito cosa fai? Gli da il benvenuto come niente fosse?

Quote
- smetto di fare pubblicita' e/o propaganda ad arduino, di qualsiasi "prodotto" arduino, in qualsiasi centro educativo e/o lavoro, ivi comprensivo scelte a catalogo e/o forniture

Per favore non lo faccia; Arduino ha proprio bisogno del Suo supporto; senza di Lei e la Sua attiva pubblicitá andrebbe subito in fallimento.

Non voglio piú leggerLa su questo forum. Per favore rispetti la mia richiesta.
Grazie Uwe

 8 
 on: Today at 04:19:23 pm 
Started by AgentNoise - Last post by AgentNoise
Yeah, definitely some lessons to learn from this and I think it will be great knowledge for the community given the popularity of the HC-0X line of bluetooth modems.  hopefully I can hammer it all out and get it working.  What really blows mine mind is some characters like L work just fine but only if they are in caps.

I though getting them to autopair was going to be the hard part, though that was a cake walk compared to this.

 9 
 on: Today at 04:16:41 pm 
Started by LastSamurai - Last post by Serenifly
Wird am durchgeknipsten Ende nicht besonders schön, aber funktioniert problemlos.
Eine Feile nehmen und glatt feilen smiley

 10 
 on: Today at 04:15:11 pm 
Started by RejsenDan - Last post by mellertson
I think I'm having the exact same issue, also from a Mac (Mac Mini).  I posted about it here: 
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=234020.0

Is this similar to your problem?

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