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Topic: TP4056 18650 Charging Board... Series Out? (Read 6304 times) previous topic - next topic

Noobian

#15
Dec 10, 2016, 04:25 am Last Edit: Dec 10, 2016, 04:29 am by Noobian
Maybe I've missed something, but I don't think this is correct.  The TP4056 is a charge only device.
Actually you did miss something ;), did you not see the DW01A IC and the FS8205A dual MOSFET in OPs picture? The second version of TP4056 modules comes with these protection chips.

Julian Ilett has done a good review on these modules.


Dont beleive you.

The output of the TP4056 module connects direct to the battery and the load is connected across the same connections as well.

As the load does not go through the TP4056 module even if the TP4056 module were to shut down, the battery is still connected to the load.
Wrong, you're talking about these first version of the TP4056 modules, OP has posted the second version with battery protection features. Please read the Original post before replying to any of the later posts. :P

Circuit for the second version.


srnet

Wrong, you're talking about these first version of the TP4056 modules, OP has posted the second version with battery protection features. Please read the Original post before replying to any of the later posts. :P
Fair point, although the original post has now been edited.

However, a cut of voltage of 2.5V is way too low. Not a good idea to let the batteries discharge that low on a regular basis.

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Noobian

Fair point, although the original post has now been edited.

However, a cut of voltage of 2.5V is way too low. Not a good idea to let the batteries discharge that low on a regular basis.


That depends on the battery. Usual 18650s has a discharge cut-off voltage at 2.75 volts but since the OP said he might use them Panasonic 3400s, which has a discharge cut-off at 2.5v.

Anyways these cheap modules are only providing this feature as a last line of defense for cheap unprotected cells. Good 18650s have their own built-in protection chip anyway.

Regularly discharging cheap cells to 2.5 volts will destroy them like you said but the OPs project will not use that much power to completely drain a 18650, unless he is planning to use an Ultrafire 10,000mAH crap.:D

onesojourner

Fair point, although the original post has now been edited.


I have never changed the picture. the only Edit of the first post was to re-explain that I was using a charging board for each battery.

onesojourner

You can use a small photoresistor to get the lights to turn on when it gets dark and turn off when it's not.

The TP4056 module has a discharge cutoff function that stops the battery from providing power when it's charge is too low to prevent any damage to the battery.

Well, why didn't you say this before. You don't really need 3 batteries for that.
A single 2600mAH 18650 has about 9.3WH so it can power you 0.6W LED for about 13-15 hours = more than enough to power your light from for a dusk to dawn.
Them Panasonic 3400s will give you well above a 20 hour runtime.

You just have to boost your battery voltage to attain  12V


Just use 1x 5V (2.5W) solar panel for the setup I suggested. 500mA is more than enough to charge a single 18650 cell. At optimum conditions your panel will fully charge a 2600mAH cell within 6 hours.

You don't really need MOSFETs for a 0.6W LED, Transistors will do the job. Just connect that photoresistor to the Transistor.

Watch this example --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEBMTpxdPiE

My plan was to let the solar panel act as the photoresistor.

So a couple things related to battery capacity. I have some cheapo cells that I would like to use if possible. I am guessing those will be somewhere around 1000mah. With that said I may need significantly more capacity to get through a couple of cloudy winter days.

I have the mosfet in the plan just because that is what I have on hand. I can get something else if it won't do the job though.

Noobian

#20
Dec 11, 2016, 07:12 pm Last Edit: Dec 11, 2016, 07:14 pm by Noobian
My plan was to let the solar panel act as the photoresistor.
That would work if your project is only meant for outdoors. :)

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I may need significantly more capacity to get through a couple of cloudy winter days.
I would suggest you use a USB power bank kit as it can both safely charge multiple batteries and also can output at a steady voltage.

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I can get something else if it won't do the job though.
Try to get a regular straw hat LED with 3.5V 150mA rating and you don't need to worry about batteries in series or a voltage booster.

onesojourner

This is indeed meant for the outdoors. I need it to be a set it and forget it kind of thing. I am ok with the battery bank idea, but I am not sure I have seen one that will stay on all the time. They usually require a button press to turn on after charging. If you know of one that is different let me know and I will check it out.

I have a few straw hat LEDs that I pulled from a busted headlamp. So that is an option. When the batteries are fully charged would that damage these LEDs?

That would work if your project is only meant for outdoors. :)

I would suggest you use a USB power bank kit as it can both safely charge multiple batteries and also can output at a steady voltage.

Try to get a regular straw hat LED with 3.5V 150mA rating and you don't need to worry about batteries in series or a voltage booster.

Noobian

#22
Dec 12, 2016, 05:51 pm Last Edit: Dec 12, 2016, 05:54 pm by Noobian
This is indeed meant for the outdoors. I need it to be a set it and forget it kind of thing.
Ok cool, you don't need a photo resistor for the outdoor project.

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I am ok with the battery bank idea, but I am not sure I have seen one that will stay on all the time. They usually require a button press to turn on after charging. If you know of one that is different let me know and I will check it out.
Actually there are models that outputs without a button press. Like this one.

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I have a few straw hat LEDs that I pulled from a busted headlamp. So that is an option. When the batteries are fully charged would that damage these LEDs?
Even if the batteries are not at full charge your LEDs will be damaged. You need to add a simple resistor to prevent that from happening. Here, this site will help you choose the right resistor value. Just make sure you set the source voltage to 5 volts since the power bank always outputs at 5v. :)

onesojourner

Ok cool, you don't need a photo resistor for the outdoor project.

Actually there are models that outputs without a button press. Like this one.

Even if the batteries are not at full charge your LEDs will be damaged. You need to add a simple resistor to prevent that from happening. Here, this site will help you choose the right resistor value. Just make sure you set the source voltage to 5 volts since the power bank always outputs at 5v. :)
Perfect. I will get one ordered. I love aliexpress.

Noobian

Perfect. I will get one ordered. I love aliexpress.
don't forget to add a resistor. ;)

onesojourner

Where does the resistor need to be, and why? I am new to electronics and resistors still have me confused.

Noobian

#26
Dec 14, 2016, 06:15 pm Last Edit: Dec 14, 2016, 06:15 pm by Noobian
Where does the resistor need to be
Like this in your circuit

replace the 9v battery from the picture with your usb power bank. :)

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and why? I am new to electronics and resistors still have me confused.
To limit the current that goes into your led so that it doesn't get damaged.

This site will help you determine the value of resistor you need.
LED RESISTOR CALCULATOR




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