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Topic: Arduino to control Sybian or other Sex Machine (Read 25879 times) previous topic - next topic



If I hold a card up saying " Zoomkat makes me Horny " will you elaborate this
project for me ? lolll

Candy xxx



If I hold a card up saying " Zoomkat makes me Horny " will you elaborate this
project for me ? lolll

Candy xxx

Yup, I think a new profile pic with you and a sign saying Zoomkat would just about put him on the hook for solving your problem! I'm a believer.



If that's all that it takes !!! You guy's gotta admit that my idea is good... Then
i'll try to incorporate a trigger to set off a electric dog collar.... Probabably lotsa
" viewers " screwed up enough to actually pay to inflict electrical discharges loll



Yup, I think a new profile pic with you and a sign saying Zoomkat would just about put him on the hook for solving your problem! I'm a believer.

Internet easy again. the hairy eastern euro guy could do the same.

If I hold a card up saying " Zoomkat makes me Horny " will you elaborate this
project for me ? lolll

That would probably get the job done!  ;)

There could be a cottage industry making/selling client side arduino based internet gizmos to operate various toys on the client end. Many years ago I tried to get a friend interested in being an internet dominatrix while I developed the client side toys/devices. Probably a lot easier now with many different video conference applications and web enabled devices.
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Why I like my 2005 Rio Yellow Honda S2000  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWjMvrkUqX0


I figure that it's overcomplicating something really simple lolllll

Straight forward... Can the arduino be turned into a 5k Potentiometer?

If so can the resistance be software controlled?

Candy xx

Greetings Candy and others reading,

I'd like to urge caution before substituting digitally-controlled potentiometers into the Sybian's motor-control circuit.  I wouldn't want harm coming to your Sybian, your PC, your Arduino or -- most importantly, you!   :smiley-eek:

A circuit that involves house current is IMHO a risky first electronics project.  If you possibly can, I suggest you find somebody nearby who has some elecronics experience to assist. 

Before trying to substitute in digiPots, I'd measure the voltage across the existing pots and check that against the datasheet.  A scope would be better than a meter to make those measurements, because the max.  voltage may differ significantly from the average voltage (what a voltmeter would read), especially if the motors are  AC powered. 

Don't assume you can  connect  your PC, Arduino and (especially) your Sybian's motor controler safely, without some sort of signal/ground isolation.  The PC's signal ground is tied to Earth ground (at least it is on all PCs I've ever checked.)  The Sybian's motor-controller is probably not earth ground referenced.  Connecting two imcompatibly referenced circuits is a recipe for sparks and damage!

Not all 5K potentiometers are equvalent. 
The digitally-controlled pots I've looked at all have significant limitations on voltages and currents -- limitations  that make them problematic in typical AC speed-control circuits.  Here http://www.circuitstoday.com/modified-lamp-dimmer-circuit is a typical dimmer circuit.  Most AC motor speed controls would be basically similar.  From the datasheet of the DB3202, the 100K pot in that circuit is seeing voltages of approx +/-30 volts, referred to the AC neutral line, not to earth ground.  The digital pots mentioned so far can't handle such voltages. 

My intent isn't to discourage.  My intent is to offer cautions that might prevent damage or injury.  Where there's a will, there's a way -- although it may involve dealing with some necessary  "complications."


Hi PiJoy,

Bf took the Sybian appart, compared it to what we will be using...

Bodine 24a series 90v Dc motor Connected to kbic-120
Bodine 24a series 130v Dc motor Connected to kbwd-13

http://goo.gl/NPjsa <----- Kbic-120 Controller
http://goo.gl/jwt15 <----- Kbwd-13 Controller
http://goo.gl/EHql7 <----- Bodine motor spec

The Pots are regular 5k ( supplied with controllers ) The arduino setup would be interfacing
with a controller before the Dc Motor, and the only thing in the remote are 2 pots and 2 12v lighted switches.

But thank you for your concerns :)

Candy xxx

Ps: Zoomcat, I havent forgotten you .... loll


The KBWD-13 manual shows how to substitute a PWM output for the pot.  See Figure 5c.  This would likely be a better choice than the digital pot.

I wonder if the same thing would work for the KBIC-120.
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Good work getting the motor and controller part numbers and especially locating the manuals for the controller boards!  They're both DC motors, so controlling them is easier, circuit wise.

As I suspected, both controller manuals say that isolation is REQUIRED!

Section 9.4 in the KBIC-120 Manual says the pot-substitute voltage must be isolated from AC_hot, AC_neutral *and* AC_earth ground.  The other controller's manual says (see pages 8 and 10, especially figure 5C) says that you can control the speed with either an isolated analog voltag or an isolated PWM signal.  Whatever is controlling the first controller in place of its potentiometer probably also needs to be electrically isolated from whatever is controlling the other one.  That's the safe way to bet.  PWM stands for pulse width modulation, basically turning a digital signal on/off very fast, and making the ratio of on time/off time vary from 0 -- 100%.  Arduinos can output PWM signals without added circuitry, and isolating a PWM signal is easier than isolating a variable (analog) voltage.

You may be able "steal" suitable power from the controller boards themselves, via their P1 and P3 pins.  Doing so would greatly simplify things.  Figure 5C shows a way to do this, for that controller.  That basic circuit may also work for the other Bodine controller.  (You might contact Bodine and ask them about doing so.  Nothing to lose, easier to do if correct.)

Here are some notes on the circuit in Figure 5C, from the bottom up:

The goal for circuit 5C is that the output (connected to P2) should reach at least (VoltageAtP3 - 0.7 volts ) when the LED is full on and no more than 0.7 volts when the LED is off.

The LED in the opto-isolator needs a resistor in series to limit the current.  For the 4N37, http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/4N37M/4N37MFS-ND/400353 , that's 10mA.  So for an Arduino (nominally 5volt outputs), the series resistor would be about  (5V - 1.5V {for LED})/0.010 = 350 Ohms.  330 ohms is fine.  There are many other opto-isolators, including two-channel ones available in through-hole packages.

The 22K resistor may need to be changed, depending on the  opto-isolator and transistors used.  You might substitue a 100K pot, if you don't want to try a bunch of different resistors.  (If you do, start with it at its mid-point, and never set it to provide less than about 1K ohms (or else you might burn  out the opto-isolator.)

The two transistors above the 560K resistor are complementary, not identical.  If the P1 -- P3 voltage is no more than 30 volts, I'd suggest trying 2N3904 for NPN and 2N3906 for PNP.

The 4.7K resistor and the 4.7uFd cap form a low-pass filter, needed if you drive the LED with a PWM signal.  I recommend using PWM, because there are simple Arduino commands to create a PWM output. 

Using PWM + circuit 5C means you don't even need digital pots.

Hope this helps! 


After some research, I think I found something that fits my bill a little better... what
do you guy's think..?

Frankly, that last post scared the hell out of me, and got me really lost loll


Candy xxx


That is functionally identical to the "Arduino + Digital Pot" solution that has been discussed. PiJoy's post still applies here; the digital potentiometer chips on that board are capable of 5V and 1 millamp max.


True, I'll give them a call tomorrow... 'cause from a girls point of
vue that has limited experience in electronics, this look easier....

Candy xxx


After some research, I think I found something that fits my bill a little better... what
do you guy's think..?

Frankly, that last post scared the hell out of me, and got me really lost loll


Candy xxx

Candy and others reading,

It wasn't my intent to scare you, but the need for isolated inputs when substituting for the existing potentiometers isn't just guesswork; it's clearly stated in the manuals for the Bodine controllers -- and isn't going to go away.  Since electrical isolation is harder than direct connection, I seriously doubt Bodine stated that isolation is required unless it really is necessary -- necessary as in necessary to avoid blowing out electronics!

The device you linked to (quoted above) uses digital pots (with the voltage and current limitations already mentioned) and they are not isolated.  If you were to connect that board to your motor-controllers and your PC, you are almost sure to damage your PC, the Bodine controllers, both and/or you.  Sorry, but that's the reality.

I'd like to be able to offer you a super simple solution that's safe, but I seriously doubt that the digital-pot solutions (either bought or built) will work.  I think trying those won't work and will cause damage or injury.

Using the circuit in Figure 5C is the way I'd go.  It's a pretty simple circuit: just a handful of parts, all of which are available (e.g from Digikey.com, which sells in Canada) in through-hole packages.  So, it'd be easy (and not very expensive) to try it out by plugging those few parts and a handful of wires into a solderless breadboard, and not much more effort afterwards to solder it together on a little piece of perfboard (with 0.1" holes) for long-term use.  I'll bet you can find somebody local to you who can help build and test that circuit and then clone it for the second motor.  Connect up your Arduino to the 5c circuits; pull up a PWM sketch from the many Arduino examples online, and you're 90% of the way to done.

For a plan B, the servo-turning-the-existing-pots solution may seem like a hack, but it would be electrically safe, especially if you ensure that the servo-to-pot mechanical connection doesn't conduct electricity (namely make the connections out of plastic, including hot-melt glue.)

Hope this helps.


My friend is a programmer and already made a TSR ...

Well, I see that I'm already late to the party, and the idea of personal assistance has already surfaced. And since you folks have already hashed out the electronics part of it, I'm left with ...

TSR? Really? As in "Terminate and Stay Resident"? Holy cats, it's been years ... years, since I heard anyone talk about one of those things.  :smiley-surprise:

Oh, and I guess I'd be a bit surprised that something like this 'pay for play' model isn't already part of the teledildonics industry. Well, maybe that stuff is still a bit too new, and there either isn't an off-the-shelf interface, or it's prohibitively expensive.  :smiley-eek:
... it is poor civic hygiene to install technologies that could someday
facilitate a police state. -- Bruce Schneier


in all fairness that crap next to your clock or in the background in windows is technically a TSR, though they go by the name of process now

theres no good reason to toss out an idea just cause its old, just change its name... for example it used to be time shared mainframe, now its "the cloud" 


I wonder if replacing the 5k potmeter with a 5k LDR and make a optical connection with a led wouldnt result in the same thing but be more safe
in something like that a led would be dimmed by the arduino using analog output pin, by some simple program that monitors serial port.
if the led is dim the resistance would be large, if its bright it would be small.
Since light itself doesnt conduct electricity the arduino would be seperated from your sybian.
You only need to make kind of black box around each LDR and LED combination,(so outside light wont interfere) keep enough distance between the LDR and LED for safety keeping both electronic circuits disconnected.

oh a LDR looks like this just google for a 5k version (or 10k if it goes to fast)
enlarged :

well i gues you will enjoy your arduino build

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