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Topic: Prototyping Part II - Beyond The Breadboard. Suggestions? (Read 2 times) previous topic - next topic

JoeN

Jul 18, 2012, 09:46 pm Last Edit: Jul 18, 2012, 09:49 pm by JoeN Reason: 1
I've got some circuits I have made on breadboards that I want to "keep" (and I want my breadboard back!) but I don't want to go full out and make or manufacture a PCB for them.  What is the best way of doing this for a circuit that will keep for years if not damaged but is also still a fairly informal process that requires simple hand equipment?

For my first circuit I used one of these "solderable breadboards":

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040Z6OYC

You put your components on it, wires on the top, use the bus strips to connect wires to components or components to components just like on a breadboard.  This works nicely but your component density is low because you are limited in placing components, like on a breadboard.  The power rails are real nice.

For my second circuit I used one of these "pad per hole" (one sided) boards:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/prototyping-board-142x74mm.html

It's hard to see but there is one copper pad per hole and solder sticks nicely to it.  These boards are super, they come individually wrapped in pastic and are nice and clean.  These are nice because you can put components anywhere.  But there is no bussing.  Wires go on the top again and you connect them to a component by bringing it through an adjacent hole and creating a solder bridge between that hole/pad and the adjacent hole/pad that the component leg is at.

Overall these seem sturdy, but I am not sure I am doing it the best way.  Suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

I've gotten suggestions to wire wrap, but I have not been able to force myself to try that yet even though I have bought some sockets, wire, and a tool.
I have only come here seeking knowledge. Things they would not teach me of in college.

abrookfield

http://www.amazon.com/ST3U-StripBoard-3U-Uncut-Strips-Sided/dp/B0040Z30R6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1342644084&sr=1-1&keywords=strip+board

You need to "drill out" the board strips to make a no-connect.. just ilke your solderable breadboard but maybe a little more flexible on item placement

zenwebb

Perfboard/stripboard is pretty much the standard way to do it. The only place to go from there is to make a PCB.

Adafruit does make some really cool 'in-between' boards that are sort of a cross between breadboard and stripboard, but are a little more pricey: https://www.adafruit.com/products/571

I prefer perfboard myself; it's relatively cheap and simple to work with - stripboard tends to trip me up from time to time, so I like the flexibility that perfboard gives you to freely wire things as you want.
Grad student, creative technologist, OSHW engineer
http://jason-webb.info

JoeN

#3
Jul 18, 2012, 11:17 pm Last Edit: Jul 18, 2012, 11:28 pm by JoeN Reason: 1
Can anyone tell me if, for non-professional projects, if I should care about Epoxy Fiber(FR4) vs. Phenolic(XPC)?  At Veroboard there is a big difference in price between otherwise similar perf/stripboards.  What is the difference between these materials?

http://www.veroboard.com/4x10-4000d-phenolic-pitch-01-254mm-p-26.html
http://www.veroboard.com/4x10-4000d-epoxy-fiber-pitch-01-254mm-p-25.html

OK, I just read the Wikipedia pages on these materials.  FR4 is superior, I can see why.  But does it really matter for an at-home, non-hostile environment project?  Does the "inferior" electrical properties of Phenolic even matter for low voltages?  Do high speed circuits operate worse on Phenolic vs FR4?
I have only come here seeking knowledge. Things they would not teach me of in college.

spcomputing

I like the Strip-Boards the best.  Perf-Boards have a tenancy to lift pads if you do not have a good iron.  Strips have all that length of copper to conduct heat and not pull from the substrate.  Also, translation from breadboard to strip-board is natural.

Just "cut" the strips with an engraver to disconnect the strip from the circuit.  Simples.

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