I think it's possible that RPN is not so much inherently "counter-intuitive" as "counter-experience", because we're English speakers who have already had a lot of exposure to algebraic notation by third grade.
There's the nub. This is not quite similar, but sorta, to learning to read left-right / top-down. We train our brains to do things in a particular way, and then there's tons of positive reinforcement of that way, because of network effects.
To a man, everyone I know who has taken the time to learn RPN has ended up preferring it. In fact, I have read explanations of RPN which make a good case that it's actually more intuitive to the way people think
about problem solving. I should try to find that, but I'm in the middle of a Charles Stross book. (Not a particularly good one, BTW. He's no Scalzi or Stephenson, but some people really like him. Well, perhaps his other works are better.)