Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« on: August 19, 2012, 07:42:39 am » |
I am, for some reason, having a problem when taking my ATMega328 chip off the UNO board. I am guessing my pinouts are wrong or I am just unsure which go where.  I am using Pins (digital pins): 4, 8, -10, -11, 13. That's it! It's a pretty simple shift register, can someone help me figure out how to place the 328 directly on the breadboard to get rid of the UNO board? Attached is the simple design. May not look pretty because I am no layout designer... but it should serve the purpose 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Massachusetts, USA
Offline
Tesla Member
Karma: 96
Posts: 6372
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2012, 01:12:23 pm » |
In addition to Power, Ground and several bypass capacitors the UNO provides a 16 MHz ceramic resonator (required) and a pull-up resistor on the Reset pin (should be optional). Did you provide a resonator or crystal when you took the ATmega328P out of the UNO?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2012, 01:27:51 pm » |
I put power and ground, but added nothing else  I thought I read that it had an internal oscillator. Can you point me to a schematic that might show this? I will have to purchase the oscillator, but have everything else. Thanks for the reply.. I was thinking that could be the case, but haven't found anything supporting that thought (probably not searching well enough)
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Global Moderator
Boston area, metrowest
Offline
Brattain Member
Karma: 247
Posts: 16526
Available for Design & Build services
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2012, 02:30:14 pm » |
Need the 16 MHz crystal/caps or resonator if the part is to be used as an Uno.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2012, 01:21:24 pm » |
Makes sense. I may have to make this my second revision  I'm running out of time! What would you suggest to wire up RGB LED's remotely? Example: I will have the RGB's 12-24 inches away from the circuit. I would LOVE to have the RGB wires pretty much covered so that I could place them in some sort of clear tube all together, but wired out one side (hope that made sense). I drew it up and attached in case it was unclear 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Global Moderator
Boston area, metrowest
Offline
Brattain Member
Karma: 247
Posts: 16526
Available for Design & Build services
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2012, 01:28:32 pm » |
Use some ribbon cable to go from shift registers over to the LEDs. 3 of these http://www.dipmicro.com/store/IDCC10few lengths of this http://www.dipmicro.com/store/WIRE28X10GRand split it up as needed to the individual LEDs
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2012, 01:41:56 pm » |
ok, that sounds easy enough on the shift register side of things. What would help on the ring side of things? I am not quite sure how to get these wired without the RGB leads touching each other inside the ring. I think that's where I am confused most after hours of searching 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Global Moderator
Boston area, metrowest
Offline
Brattain Member
Karma: 247
Posts: 16526
Available for Design & Build services
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2012, 02:09:17 pm » |
The LED leads are pretty stiff once cut short - cut them to the length needed, and solder the wires on to the pins. Can also put shrink wrap over each pin. Slide a length down each wire, solder the pins, slide shrinkwrap up & heat it up.
------------------------------------------- LED1 R ------------------------------------------- LED1 B ------------------------------------------- LED1 G ------------------------------------------- LED1 CA ---------------------------- LED2 R ---------------------------- LED2 B ---------------------------- LED2 G ---------------------------- LED CA ---------- LED3 R ---------- LED3 B next wire ---------- LED3 G ---------- LED3 CA ----- LED4 R ----- LED4 B ----- LED4 G ----- LED4 CA - LED5 R - LED5 B - LED5 B - LED5 CA
next wire, etc.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2012, 02:36:09 pm » |
Thanks! Just picked up shrinkwire, actually... only because I saw it in the store, have a heat gun, and thought to myself I can't believe I didn't figure that out already. Thanks again for all of your help!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Global Moderator
Boston area, metrowest
Offline
Brattain Member
Karma: 247
Posts: 16526
Available for Design & Build services
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2012, 02:41:01 pm » |
No problem. Post a pic when you get it working.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Dubuque, Iowa, USA
Offline
Edison Member
Karma: 13
Posts: 1540
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2012, 09:55:58 am » |
Your "off/on dip", assuming that is a switch, is wired incorrectly. You need to add a 10K resistor between pin 4 and GND so the input is not left "floating". http://arduino.cc/it/Tutorial/Button
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Global Moderator
Boston area, metrowest
Offline
Brattain Member
Karma: 247
Posts: 16526
Available for Design & Build services
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2012, 10:28:38 am » |
Enabling the internal pullup means the input will be HIGH unless the switch is pressed to make it LOW. No external resistor needed.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2012, 02:45:52 pm » |
I am so slow at this. It's a pain in the butt to solder the ribbon cable to the RGBs and then heat-shrink properly. I think I need more tools  And a magnifying glass now that I'm semi-old (42). Now I wish I would have been 'on top of' this project when I started it. I would have had a real PCB created and some connectors to make this much easier!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Global Moderator
Boston area, metrowest
Offline
Brattain Member
Karma: 247
Posts: 16526
Available for Design & Build services
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2012, 10:22:56 pm » |
Live & learn. Plan better next project.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Offline
Newbie
Karma: 0
Posts: 23
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: August 24, 2012, 08:47:25 am » |
Good advice  Question: I have soldered and wrapped all the RGB's. It is possible while soldering that i burn out RGB's? None are working, I'll have to go through the circuit again to make sure I have it wired - but wanted to check. I assume, yes. It could also be the ribbon cable as I elected to go with the plug: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10965. It doesn't clamp down well, so possible that a wire isn't properly exposed to the pins. Gotta check that too.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|