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Author Topic: Circuit Design from UNO board to ATMega328 without board  (Read 2225 times)
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I am, for some reason, having a problem when taking my ATMega328 chip off the UNO board.  I am guessing my pinouts are wrong or I am just unsure which go where.  smiley-sad  I am using Pins (digital pins): 4, 8, -10, -11, 13.  That's it!  It's a pretty simple shift register, can someone help me figure out how to place the 328 directly on the breadboard to get rid of the UNO board?

Attached is the simple design.  May not look pretty because I am no layout designer... but it should serve the purpose smiley


* arduino.jpg (150.14 KB, 800x600 - viewed 30 times.)
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In addition to Power, Ground and several bypass capacitors the UNO provides a 16 MHz ceramic resonator (required) and a pull-up resistor on the Reset pin (should be optional).  Did you provide a resonator or crystal when you took the ATmega328P out of the UNO?
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I put power and ground, but added nothing else smiley-sad  I thought I read that it had an internal oscillator.  Can you point me to a schematic that might show this?  I will have to purchase the oscillator, but have everything else.

Thanks for the reply.. I was thinking that could be the case, but haven't found anything supporting that thought (probably not searching well enough)
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Need the 16 MHz crystal/caps or resonator if the part is to be used as an Uno.


* Bare_minimum_uC2.jpg (95.34 KB, 960x720 - viewed 20 times.)
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Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
Arduino for Teens available at Amazon.com.

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Makes sense.  I may have to make this my second revision smiley  I'm running out of time!

What would you suggest to wire up RGB LED's remotely?  Example:  I will have the RGB's 12-24 inches away from the circuit.  I would LOVE to have the RGB wires pretty much covered so that I could place them in some sort of clear tube all together, but wired out one side (hope that made sense).  I drew it up and attached in case it was unclear smiley


* RGBConfig.jpg (18.25 KB, 200x200 - viewed 7 times.)
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Use some ribbon cable to go from shift registers over to the LEDs.

3 of these
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/IDCC10
few lengths of this
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/WIRE28X10GR
and split it up as needed to the individual LEDs
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Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
Arduino for Teens available at Amazon.com.

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ok, that sounds easy enough on the shift register side of things.  What would help on the ring side of things?  I am not quite sure how to get these wired without the RGB leads touching each other inside the ring.  I think that's where I am confused most after hours of searching smiley-sad
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The LED leads are pretty stiff once cut short - cut them to the length needed, and solder the wires on to the pins.
Can also put shrink wrap over each pin.
Slide a length down each wire, solder the pins, slide shrinkwrap  up & heat it up.



------------------------------------------- LED1 R
------------------------------------------- LED1 B
------------------------------------------- LED1 G
------------------------------------------- LED1 CA
---------------------------- LED2 R
---------------------------- LED2 B
---------------------------- LED2 G
---------------------------- LED CA
---------- LED3 R
---------- LED3 B
next wire
---------- LED3 G
---------- LED3 CA
----- LED4 R
----- LED4 B
----- LED4 G
----- LED4 CA
- LED5 R
- LED5 B
- LED5 B
- LED5 CA

next wire, etc.
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Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
Arduino for Teens available at Amazon.com.

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Thanks!  Just picked up shrinkwire, actually... only because I saw it in the store, have a heat gun, and thought to myself I can't believe I didn't figure that out already.  Thanks again for all of your help!
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No problem. Post a pic when you get it working.
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Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
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Your "off/on dip", assuming that is a switch, is wired incorrectly. You need to add a 10K resistor between pin 4 and GND so the input is not left "floating". http://arduino.cc/it/Tutorial/Button
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Enabling the internal pullup means the input will be HIGH unless the switch is pressed to make it LOW.
No external resistor needed.
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I am so slow at this.  It's a pain in the butt to solder the ribbon cable to the RGBs and then heat-shrink properly.  I think I need more tools smiley  And a magnifying glass now that I'm semi-old (42).  Now I wish I would have been 'on top of' this project when I started it.  I would have had a real PCB created and some connectors to make this much easier!
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Live & learn. Plan better next project.
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Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
Arduino for Teens available at Amazon.com.

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Good advice smiley

Question:  I have soldered and wrapped all the RGB's.  It is possible while soldering that i burn out RGB's?  None are working, I'll have to go through the circuit again to make sure I have it wired - but wanted to check.  I assume, yes.

It could also be the ribbon cable as I elected to go with the plug:  https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10965.  It doesn't clamp down well, so possible that a wire isn't properly exposed to the pins.  Gotta check that too.
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