You want a third hand, not a bench vice ( vise ? ). A hand is movable, by definition should just have a stable base to not move too easily or by itself... I'd rather prefer a heavy solid base, which discourages any attempt to drill mounting holes.
Get a "PV Jr" and the tray base.The PV Jr. is very versatile, genuinely useful.The tray base is about 8 inches or so diameter, won't tip, stays put, and it has rubber feet.http://www.panaviseonline.com/Panavise_Jr_Model_201_p/pv-201.htmhttp://www.panaviseonline.com/Panavise_Parts_Tray_Base_Model_312_p/pv-312.htm
Have you thought about building one?Here's a really nice one made from generic "loc-line":http://www.instructables.com/id/Third-Hand-A-multi-use-helping-hand-for-electro/Here's an interesting one which uses a PC fan as a base, to blow the soldering fumes away:http://www.instructables.com/id/Yet-another-third-hand-soldering-aid-with-some-n/...and here's a dead simple one that you could probably make from junk in your electronics stash:http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Simple-Third-Hand-Tool-done-within-30mins/All of them are very inexpensive; I think if you could somehow combine the first version with the second version, you'd have one heck of a solution there. It would be unique, while useful. Best of all, she'll always remember who made it for her, with love and attention.
Why not drill the bottom and use self threading machine screws??? Mount it to an Oak or other real Hardwood and punk it up... Steam Punk Style also if you remove all that rubber stuff in the bottom you might.. drive a couple of screws up from the bottom to use as anchors for an epoxy bond if as I suspect there is a cavity under the "Rubber Bottom". Either solution I offered is IMO permanent... So maybe someone else has another opinion... Perhaps do it right and drill and tap mounting holes on the bottom of the unit... Lotsa solutions... If the bottom is 'perfectly' flat you could even use Shu Goo. I used it to stick a diamond lap to a piece of white oak wood for my kitchen knife sharpener after JB Weld failed twice. Lotsa Idea's Bob
Sooner or later, I'm going to have to upgrade my drill (handheld drill probably bought 20 years ago) or at least the drill bits.
If you can make a "Close" fit you can use glue to hold it in the recess... Or epoxy or shu goo... or?? like I said "Punk it up", I read that thread about your camera and was totally impressed with your skills and imagination... Put 'em to Use...Bob
Quote from: MichaelMeissner on Oct 28, 2012, 05:10 amSooner or later, I'm going to have to upgrade my drill (handheld drill probably bought 20 years ago) or at least the drill bits.Get some new bits, Michael. There's no reason for a quality drill to go bad in 20 years. The chuck might get loose, but you can replace the chuck. Get a set of titanium nitride coated bits. I have some from Ryobi, and they're great. DeWalt are good as well. I'm sure that Freud, Porter-Cable, and Makita are good too. But the titanium-nitride coating makes a difference in how long the edge stays good. BTW, I used to through 3/16 bits like crazy installing melamine cabinetry, but I save the dull ones for drilling into drywall.
Yes, the bits are probably on the old-ish and probably need replacing. However, as I said, I had bought a concrete bit specifically to hang some shelves (project #823 of my undone projects) and I couldn't get it to make a hole with the new bit. So, I assume I need something with more torque. I don't know when we bought it, but I think my wife bought it primarily as a power screwdriver.