CrossRoads:
Ok, here it is, somewhat crudely drawn, have better tools at home.
Not much is really needed.
'
Thank you very much for your help, i will let you know how i do but i have one question. what do i connect the icsp pins to.
thanks
CrossRoads:
Ok, here it is, somewhat crudely drawn, have better tools at home.
Not much is really needed.
'
Thank you very much for your help, i will let you know how i do but i have one question. what do i connect the icsp pins to.
thanks
kylem:
Would i not be able to use the ATmega328 with the bootloader loaded?
Yes. You can use a Mega328 (28 pins), a Tiny2313 (20 pins), a Tiny84 (14 pins), a Tiny85 (8 pins)... whatever suits your requirements. All of them will work with no external components (although it's a good idea to put in at least a decoupling capacitor).
Bootloaders are optional. In fact I don't recommend them for bare chips, get a $12 ISP programmer instead so you can configure the chip's "fuse" options as well as upload code.
If you are only doing a one off project, have you considered just buying a teensy board?
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/
It is about as small as you can get and often for one offs, even the cost at $16
is very competitive to a DIY prototype using a perf/stripboard unless
you happen to have components laying around.
--- bill
Use pins like these for the FTDI and ICSP header.
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/HDR40X2M
and if you need some female headers
http://www.dipmicro.com/store/HDR08X1FL
Is it the functionality you want 'gone'.. or just simply a smaller footprint of the 'Arduino board/brain'?
Maybe using a different/smaller Arduino circuit will help?
something like this perhaps:
green one is a commercial kit (about $10 bucks or so).. lacks any voltage regulation..
the other one is my home made, DIY home brew/etched version..
Back in #8, you asked about ICSP: those connect to +5, Gnd, Reset, and SCK, MISO, MOSI.
Can be a header as I did, or just connect temporarily to the needed pins.
fungus:
Those are huge...try this: http://www.geocities.jp/arduino_diecimila/obaka/project-2/index_en.html
A novel approach, next step from that must be surface mount though most of the parts are already mounted on the surface of the MPU LOL
There are already some very SMALL.. all SMD Arduino boards..
femtoduino: Tiny Femtoduino, The Smallest Arduino Compatible Board | Arduino Blog
digispark: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/digistump/digispark-the-tiny-arduino-enabled-usb-dev-board
Tiny Duino: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kenburns/tinyduino-the-tiny-arduino-compatible-platform-w-s
take your pick.. Im still not clear if you want smaller 'features'? or a smaller board/footprint..??
xl97:
There are already some very SMALL.. all SMD Arduino boards..
The standard Arduino Pro Mini is pretty small, too...let's not forget it.
I think the OP went home though.
Was bored so I tried to make a tiny attiny2313 (DIP) board with ISP headers. Here is what I got:
nice!..
wher are all the other components?
I never used an ATtiny2313 before...
(still need the caps/crystal...etc?)
xl97:
nice!..wher are all the other components?
I never used an ATtiny2313 before...
(still need the caps/crystal...etc?)
There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.
Very nice. Don't you need to customize the boards.txt of the Arduino IDE for using the internal 8MHz ? I thought that meant using specific "fuse settings".
tochinet:
Very nice. Don't you need to customize the boards.txt of the Arduino IDE for using the internal 8MHz ? I thought that meant using specific "fuse settings".
I don't use the arduino IDE. But no, the attiny is not supported. If you want to use the IDE without any custom editing you could do the same board with an atmega168 and program it using "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3v, 8 MHz) w/ ATmega168".
io53:
There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.
Well, you really should have a bypass capacitor on VCC / GND and a pull-up on RESET.
It's recommended, yes. But as I said I was bored and wanted to make a minimal board (I'm not using it for anything). I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.
io53:
I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.
That's like saying "I never had an accident in my car so why does it need an airbag?"
fungus:
io53:
I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.That's like saying "I never had an accident in my car so why does it need an airbag?"
It doesn't matter of you have an airbag or not if your just standing still flashing with out headlights.