Shrinkify Arduino Project

xl97:
nice!..

wher are all the other components?

I never used an ATtiny2313 before...

(still need the caps/crystal...etc?)

There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.

Very nice. Don't you need to customize the boards.txt of the Arduino IDE for using the internal 8MHz ? I thought that meant using specific "fuse settings".

tochinet:
Very nice. Don't you need to customize the boards.txt of the Arduino IDE for using the internal 8MHz ? I thought that meant using specific "fuse settings".

I don't use the arduino IDE. But no, the attiny is not supported. If you want to use the IDE without any custom editing you could do the same board with an atmega168 and program it using "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3v, 8 MHz) w/ ATmega168".

io53:
There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.

Well, you really should have a bypass capacitor on VCC / GND and a pull-up on RESET.

It's recommended, yes. But as I said I was bored and wanted to make a minimal board (I'm not using it for anything). I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.

io53:
I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.

That's like saying "I never had an accident in my car so why does it need an airbag?"

fungus:

io53:
I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.

That's like saying "I never had an accident in my car so why does it need an airbag?"

It doesn't matter of you have an airbag or not if your just standing still flashing with out headlights.

CrossRoads:
What part of the Arduino functionality would you like to keep?
At a minimum you need:
the '328P
16 MHz crystral
two 22pF caps
100nF caps on VCC, AVCC pins
using analog? need 100nF cap on the Aref pin
10K reset pullup resistor
diode such as 1N4158 across the resistor (anode to reset pin, cathode to Vcc)

optional:
Header pins to connect FTDI Basic/FTDI cable, and 100nF cap to connect to Reset pin
or
header pins to connect to ICSP header for rebootloading or for installing bootloaderless sketches

place to connect 5V wallwart, or a battery, or a 5V regulator

Here's an example for a ATmega1284P type board, a '328P would use a smaller connector
This one has both FTDI and ICSP headers, but does not have the diode.
It has screw terminal for bring in 5V power from a wallwart or 4.5V from a triple-AA battery pack (I've used both)

why do we need to pull up resistor when we need to use analog ?and also the cap.

Vincent19:

CrossRoads:
What part of the Arduino functionality would you like to keep?
At a minimum you need:
the '328P
16 MHz crystral
two 22pF caps
100nF caps on VCC, AVCC pins
using analog? need 100nF cap on the Aref pin
10K reset pullup resistor
diode such as 1N4158 across the resistor (anode to reset pin, cathode to Vcc)

optional:
Header pins to connect FTDI Basic/FTDI cable, and 100nF cap to connect to Reset pin
or
header pins to connect to ICSP header for rebootloading or for installing bootloaderless sketches

place to connect 5V wallwart, or a battery, or a 5V regulator

Here's an example for a ATmega1284P type board, a '328P would use a smaller connector
This one has both FTDI and ICSP headers, but does not have the diode.
It has screw terminal for bring in 5V power from a wallwart or 4.5V from a triple-AA battery pack (I've used both)

why do we need to pull up resistor when we need to use analog ?and also the cap.

ATtiny2313 doesn't have analog input :>

io53:
I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.

In that case, I have a tiger repelling rock to sell you.

Please send it so I can try it out first. I'm pretty sure that it will work great here in Finland, but you never know. Anyway, if I ever where to use that thing I will solder a pull-up on the back to make you happy, but not a cap! Living on the edge! :%

my bad - i saw "shrinkify" only a few hours earlier did i come across "how to shrinkify your arduino" via a youtube vid, i presumed you were using an Attiny, my bad.

well, there's plenty of options, shift registers are the best way to go if all you're doing is reading a bunch of high/low signals.

xl97:
Is it the functionality you want 'gone'.. or just simply a smaller footprint of the 'Arduino board/brain'?

Maybe using a different/smaller Arduino circuit will help?

something like this perhaps:

green one is a commercial kit (about $10 bucks or so).. lacks any voltage regulation..

the other one is my home made, DIY home brew/etched version..

Please can you send me the link for these

Ardweeny is smaller.
http://www.thekanes.org/2010/04/16/ardweeny-adventures-part-one/
Lots of places carry them.

Teensy is also smaller.
My preference is for the Teensy boards.

--- bill

bperrybap:
Ardweeny is smaller.
Ardweeny adventures, part one | NovoKane
Lots of places carry them.

Teensy is also smaller.
My preference is for the Teensy boards.

--- bill

i would still like to use the standard atmega328p chip

www.solarbotics.com - the ardweeny originator?
"And Mr. Kimio Kosaka's "One-Chip-Arduino" project inspired us to develop the Ardweeny; the smallest Arduino you can solder yourself with through-hole components!"

Atmega328P-PU is the standard chip. The kind of board you put it on does not matter too much.

kylem:

xl97:
Is it the functionality you want 'gone'.. or just simply a smaller footprint of the 'Arduino board/brain'?

Maybe using a different/smaller Arduino circuit will help?

something like this perhaps:

green one is a commercial kit (about $10 bucks or so).. lacks any voltage regulation..

the other one is my home made, DIY home brew/etched version..

Please can you send me the link for these

Ideally i think this is the one that im needing

All the advice got before this is 'correct'...

the solarbotics one is pretty neat too!..

one is 'mine' (I home brew/etched it)..

the other is one by:

Anatools.com I believe..

(he used to even sell them on ebay if I recall)

**keep in mind this one has NO VOLTAGE REGULATOR **

so it can ONLY take a regulated 5v

"so it can ONLY take a regulated 5v"

Or 3 AA batteries...
Or a 3.7V LiPo battery for 3.3V/8MHz operation...