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Topic: Shrinkify Arduino Project (Read 8535 times) previous topic - next topic

Riva


Those are huge...try this: http://www.geocities.jp/arduino_diecimila/obaka/project-2/index_en.html


A novel approach, next step from that must be surface mount though most of the parts are already mounted on the surface of the MPU LOL

xl97

There are already some very SMALL.. all SMD Arduino boards..

femtoduino: http://arduino.cc/blog/2011/02/17/tiny-femtoduino-the-smallest-arduino-compatible-board/

digispark: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/digistump/digispark-the-tiny-arduino-enabled-usb-dev-board

Tiny Duino: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kenburns/tinyduino-the-tiny-arduino-compatible-platform-w-s

SMDuino: http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2012/03/20/smduino-a-surface-mountable-arduino-variant/

take your pick.. Im still not clear if you want smaller 'features'?  or a smaller board/footprint..??

CrossRoads

Don't forget my 1284 & 328  boards

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

fungus


There are already some very SMALL.. all SMD Arduino boards..


The standard Arduino Pro Mini is pretty small, too...let's not forget it.

I think the OP went home though.

No, I don't answer questions sent in private messages (but I do accept thank-you notes...)

io53

Was bored so I tried to make a tiny attiny2313 (DIP) board with ISP headers. Here is what I got:


io53


nice!..

wher are all the other components?

I never used an ATtiny2313 before...

(still need the caps/crystal...etc?)


There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.

tochinet

Very nice. Don't you need to customize the boards.txt of the Arduino IDE for using the internal 8MHz ? I thought that meant using specific "fuse settings".

io53


Very nice. Don't you need to customize the boards.txt of the Arduino IDE for using the internal 8MHz ? I thought that meant using specific "fuse settings".


I don't use the arduino IDE. But no, the attiny is not supported. If you want to use the IDE without any custom editing you could do the same board with an atmega168 and program it using "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3v, 8 MHz) w/ ATmega168".

Coding Badly

There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.


Well, you really should have a bypass capacitor on VCC / GND and a pull-up on RESET.

io53


There is no need for any external components, and no attiny/atmega dosen't even need a crystal. They (atleast all I've used) have an 8MHz internal crystal. All you need is voltage and ground.


Well, you really should have a bypass capacitor on VCC / GND and a pull-up on RESET.



It's recommended, yes. But as I said I was bored and wanted to make a minimal board (I'm not using it for anything). I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.

fungus


I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.


That's like saying "I never had an accident in my car so why does it need an airbag?"

No, I don't answer questions sent in private messages (but I do accept thank-you notes...)

io53



I've never had any problems without caps or pull-up so I left them out.


That's like saying "I never had an accident in my car so why does it need an airbag?"



It doesn't matter of you have an airbag or not if your just standing still flashing with out headlights.

Vincent19


What part of the Arduino functionality would you like to keep?
At a minimum you need:
the '328P
16 MHz crystral
two 22pF caps
100nF caps on VCC, AVCC pins
using analog? need 100nF cap on the Aref pin
10K reset pullup resistor
diode such as 1N4158 across the resistor (anode to reset pin, cathode to Vc
c)

optional:
Header pins to connect FTDI Basic/FTDI cable, and 100nF cap to connect to Reset pin
or
header pins to connect to ICSP header for rebootloading or for installing bootloaderless sketches

place to connect 5V wallwart, or a battery, or a 5V regulator

Here's an example for a ATmega1284P type board, a '328P would use a smaller connector
This one has both FTDI and ICSP headers, but does not have the diode.
It has screw terminal for bring in 5V power from a wallwart or 4.5V from a triple-AA battery pack (I've used both)



why do we need to pull up resistor when we need to use analog ?and also the cap.

io53



What part of the Arduino functionality would you like to keep?
At a minimum you need:
the '328P
16 MHz crystral
two 22pF caps
100nF caps on VCC, AVCC pins
using analog? need 100nF cap on the Aref pin
10K reset pullup resistor
diode such as 1N4158 across the resistor (anode to reset pin, cathode to Vc
c)

optional:
Header pins to connect FTDI Basic/FTDI cable, and 100nF cap to connect to Reset pin
or
header pins to connect to ICSP header for rebootloading or for installing bootloaderless sketches

place to connect 5V wallwart, or a battery, or a 5V regulator

Here's an example for a ATmega1284P type board, a '328P would use a smaller connector
This one has both FTDI and ICSP headers, but does not have the diode.
It has screw terminal for bring in 5V power from a wallwart or 4.5V from a triple-AA battery pack (I've used both)



why do we need to pull up resistor when we need to use analog ?and also the cap.


ATtiny2313 doesn't have analog input :>

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