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[on:]

Some years ago, prototypes (after breadboard trials) were built with IC sockets for both ICs and for components. Components were soldered to component carriers - into small Y forks. The carriers were then inserted into the DIP sockets. That saved space and made things flexible. However, I don't see many such solder headers available except at rather high prices from US distributors. None come from China at a much cheaper rate. Is a cheaper, more suitable alternative being used these days?

[Reply #1 on:]

Those things seemed like they'd be more useful than they actually were.
There were even a kind that had a little box to go over the DIP platform.
But the plastic used was always pretty sucky, couldn't stand the slightest suggestion of heat.
I fab modules with experimenter board, plated-thru holes or the strip-board kind, and solder SIP rail/s for plugability.

[Reply #2 on:]

http://www.jameco.com/1/3/dip-header

But like R_P says, probably less useful than thought ahead of time, and not especially
cheap, but I imagine the jameco prices are about what to expect.

[Reply #3 on:]

They were actually very useful in their time, which was when wire-wrap was in common use, for both prototypes and production equipment. I've also worked with equipment that used them as programming jumpers, phase-locked loop filters and timing components. (In sizes from 8 pin to 40 pin DIPs)

The ones with covers were often used in production equipment. Where I worked, after we got the correct values soldered in and tested, we'd fill the cover with potting compound to seal them and attach them to the header. That kept the customer from tampering with them and altering calibration. But I know that some companies just glued the covers on.

The best headers were made of fiberglass or phenolic, they handled the heat of soldering better and were much more durable. The plastic ones were a bit of a pain, easily overheated and damaged. The trick was to keep the pins cool and held rigidly in place while soldering. A socket was the easiest way; I used to have an un-etched square of double-sided circuit board with several sockets soldered to it for heat dissipation. Another method was to find a thick strip of metal 0.3 inches wide, place it between the pins and clamp the whole thing in a small vise to dissipate the heat.

I haven't used any of them in probably 10 years, haven't even seen any for sale anywhere.

I once had a job to maintain about a hundred devices which each contained  between one and four 4x4" wirewrap boards just crammed full of 7400 logic and headers. The people who built them weren't very conscientious about assembling them and bad wraps, cold solder joints  and occasional wiring errors made them a challenge to troubleshoot and repair.

I don't miss that part of my career.


Edit: These seem pretty cheap and they look like the good ones I bought years ago.
http://eolsurplus.com/Components.html
search for component carrier.

[Reply #4 on:]

I fab modules ...solder SIP rail/s for plugability.

I didn't understand that comment. I have a "PC Breadboard" (a plated board that has the size and layout out much like a solderless type). Where do you put the SIP rails - where the DIP pins would go? See the attached image.

[Reply #5 on:]

Edit: These seem pretty cheap and they look like the good ones I bought years ago.
http://eolsurplus.com/Components.html
search for component carrier.

I did look at the web page. I sent an email to see what the shipping charge is. $10 for 45 pieces is good. We'll see.

[Reply #6 on:]

Where do you put the SIP rails - where the DIP pins would go?

I get out my Dremel and cut out small sections from
experimenter board and go from there.

In this pic, I made a plug / cable lead-out, but I could have jammed
some components on it same way (without the leads), same principle:



Those fibreglas carriers look nice, I remember seeing one a long time ago.
Maybe they were all that way at first and someone said, "Hey, let's use crappy low-temp plastic instead."  (:

[Reply #7 on:]

To R_P: Now I understand what you meant. But I was talking about something different. If you saw the headers, then you know.
But thanks for your efforts anyway.

[Reply #8 on:]

I believe the OP is taking about this style: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18635

They also carry a 8 pin version.

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18626


Lefty

[Reply #9 on:]

I'm new to the forum, and hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but have a relevant question:
If I want to solder wires directly to the Arduino Uno permanently, how do I remove the headers?
Hot air desoldering tool?
Thanks!
John

[Reply #10 on:]

I'm new to the forum, and hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but have a relevant question:
If I want to solder wires directly to the Arduino Uno permanently, how do I remove the headers?
Hot air desoldering tool?
Thanks!
John

Really not worth the time consumption and risk to board damage in my opinion. Just buy some male header pin strips, break off the number of pins you wish to use. Solder your wires to the short pins of the header pins and insert the long pins into the shield header socket(s). These make very secure connections and if you use proper sized stranded wire should hold up well. Some people like to add glue (epoxy or hot glue) to the wire/short pin side of your newly made connector to add a little strength and strain relief to the solder joint.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/116?

Lefty

[Reply #11 on:]

I'm new to the forum, and hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but have a relevant question:
If I want to solder wires directly to the Arduino Uno permanently, how do I remove the headers?
Hot air desoldering tool?

If you've got one, yes. If not I'd just break them up a bit with a pair of cutters then desolder the pins.

OTOH you could buy one of these and save some time/money: http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/180

[Reply #12 on:]

Edit: These seem pretty cheap and they look like the good ones I bought years ago.
http://eolsurplus.com/Components.html
search for component carrier.

I did look at the web page. I sent an email to see what the shipping charge is. $10 for 45 pieces is good. We'll see.

No reply to my email after 3 days. No pint in pursuing this.

[Reply #13 on:]

That's the trouble with online stuff; you never know if it's been posted for a week, a month, a year...

Hope you find what you're looking for.

[Reply #14 on:]

That's the trouble with online stuff; you never know if it's been posted for a week, a month, a year...

Hope you find what you're looking for.

Well, that's the point. If these carriers are no longer in common use, then people have already found a better alternative.
Perhaps single row female headers will be better. But that would mean inserting resistor (etc) leands into the header instead of soldering them. But its a very flexible approach. You could change values and locations without soldering at all. The next step would be a custom PCB.