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Topic: I want to get into 3d printing... (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic


This guy has some pretty reasonable full kits: http://printrbot.com/shop/  What's your impression of his machines?


I think they look pretty good.  I'm one of those stubborn people who has to do everything himself.  You know, save some money and spend twice the time.  I'm a mechanical engineer by trade, so I guess it comes with the territory.  I've looked into the printerbot, I think when it was on Kickstarter.  They look like nice machines and seem to be well designed.  It depends on what size you're planning to get as to what I'd recommend.  The Jr. model looks to be a good price.  The Plus and LC models go for about the same as an assembled Prusa Mendel on Ebay.  Pick your poison, I guess.  I would do some checking around to see what kind of reviews people who have bought the Printrbot would give.  Don't get into a hurry and research well.  You'll be glad you did.  Have fun, that's the most important part, along with the learning.

Update on my machine:
I just got my smooth rods, bearings, belts, and pulleys today.  Only a few major parts left to get.  Electronics, hot end, and heated bed, plus nickel and dime stuff.  It's coming along nicely.

Ran Talbott

I would do some checking around to see what kind of reviews people who have bought the Printrbot would give.  Don't get into a hurry and research well.

This is really good advice. It's also important to watch for reviews from people doing the sorts of things you want to do with it.

As flyboy can tell you, precision costs a lot more than it would seem to the "uninitiated".  My cheap Chinese lathe looks as good as ones that cost 3 to 5 times as much, on the surface (mostly: there are some non-critical areas where, e.g.,  they didn't polish castings the way they would for a top-quality machine).  But it can't easily be turned into a CNC machine, because there's so much slop in the lead screws and other areas: if I want to make a shaft that's exactly .087 diameter, I can't just stick a piece of stock in the jaws and crank the cross-slide according to the markings on its dial.  I have to use my expensive high-precision dial caliper to measure what's being cut and "close the feedback loop".  That's fine with me, because I bought it knowing that I would have to pay for my upfront savings with additional manual work compensating for that.

A low-cost machine might be ideal for you if you want to make custom accessories for your kids' Lego minifigs, or build a robotic sculptor, but be a huge disappointment if you want to make custom gear trains for your robots.


I know someone else with a low precision x-y table who is trying to measure by screw-turns. I told him to put measuring instruments right on the bed. In his case I think that an inverted optical mouse would do, he's cutting wood.

But the principle of measuring the movement directly rather than implicitly is good. The only thing it doesn't cover is tool wear.

I find it harder to express logic in English than in Code.
Sometimes an example says more than many times as many words.

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