Recording and playback of the IR signals should work fine.
However, if you are doing stage lighting, you are going to need a lot more than 900 lumens. I've been mixing custom LED lighting into my photography lighting, particularly RGB strip lighting. It's referred to as "5050 RGB strip lighting, 60 emitters per meter". It's a really good and cheap choice- runs via 12v, current limiting built in, PWM mixing is really nice. Ton of vendors on ebay sell it, I've bought rolls from several vendors and it's all pretty much the same, probably is literally the same maker..I took an old Fluorescent four foot fixture and ripped out the ballast and such, then just mounted the LED strip (with the sticky back it comes with) in the trough. 24 watts of red, green, and blue each per 5 meters, 72 watts total for around twenty five to thirty dollars.. 300 SMD RGB LED's ready to go. In addition, because the light comes from hundreds of emitters, it acts as if it were a diffuse source rather than a spot. From any distance greater than about two feet, it acts as if it were a softbox. I'd probably just toss a diffusion silk in front of it, if the hundreds of highlights were caught in something reflective (like a model's eye). I use it for wash while still using typical PAR cans for spot and highlight. The richness of the blues and purples is amazing, and since it is emission rather than blocking, it compares with a three hundred watt halogen with a gel, in terms of the brightness delivered to the subject. In a halogen with gels, you are losing most of the light by design, it gets absorbed by the gel and turned into heat. By instead emitting the desired spectrum rather than blocking the unwanted spectrum, efficiency is much much higher than typical floods especially in the high density colors. I built a mixing and fading box around a ATMEGA168 and three MOSFETS, mainly just to do it, as they do come with the cheap IR control boxes that can do the same thing
The strip is only a half inch wide, so if I ran them tight side be side, I could probably fit ten meters of the strip (144 watts) on the Fluorescent "shop light" type fixture I "repurposed".
What's great is the purity of the color and the lack of heat, not to mention the fact there's no bulb to break or burn out- thousands of hours operating life for LED's, and LED's don't care too much if they are dropped, unlike a halogen's quartz envelope which can explode into a thousand white hot shards if mishandled. When a model is getting 2-3kw of halogen floods and spots dumped on them from four feet away, anything we can do to reduce the delivered heat is going to help. Theatrical makeup literally can melt and run under that much light!
Tip- if you do choose 12v lighting, don't waste a ton of money buying a power supply. Recycle an old PC power supply. Typically, there's a green "power good" line which needs to be grounded and after that, you have a high-output 12v DC switching power supply, and regulated 5v for any other needs, too. Never toss a good P/S!