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Hi all,

I am planning to use the MB102 Breadboard power supply module for my project, kinda stupid though, what i am in doubt is...
Is it a plug to use module?  cause when i attempt to do so, there is no voltage at the output.  is jumper wiring required to make this thing
work?

Another question is about the SM5100b GSM cellular Shield.  In order to prevent short burst, an external power supply is given to the shield at the 5v pin on the shield.  reference to http://tronixstuff.wordpress.com/2011/01/19/tutorial-arduino-and-gsm-cellular-part-one/
, however, whenever i apply the external power to the shield, i have the error code as: AVRdude not in Sync().  In the fear of burning
the Shield and  the arudino altogether.  Is there another way of connecting the external 5v 2A to the shield?

Regards,


* photo.JPG (2179.98 KB, 2592x1936 - viewed 170 times.)
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Quote
Is it a plug to use module?  cause when i attempt to do so, there is no voltage at the output.  is jumper wiring required to make this thing
work?

From what I can see there are two removable  jumper pins on each output to select whether you want 3.3 volts or 5 volts..You must select what you want.. Center position is no voltage, either left or right selects what you want.No external wiring should be needed..Just  power it with either USB or a 9volt dc walwart and you should be good to go once you do the above.
The second question I will leave to others to answer..
Goodluck,
jolphil
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Hi again!

Thank you for answering my question in the first place smiley-grin.  I have selected the voltage ( 5v ), please refer to the attachment.
There is still no power being supplied to the bread board... and the AMS1117 chips is smoking smiley-eek-blue  Is the chips being defective or its me..? the power being supplied to the Bread Board power module is from a 220VAC to 9VDC transformer.  Any help will be appreciated!  Thanks in advance! smiley-lol

Regards,


* IMG_5901.jpg (1962.9 KB, 2592x1936 - viewed 231 times.)
« Last Edit: November 27, 2012, 08:17:29 pm by camac » Logged

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Hello again,
From your attached picture it looks to me like you selected 3.3 volts not 5 volts. Second smoking chips is NOT good..I cannot tell from the picture if you have any load to the Bread board or not but assuming not..Then look at the possible problems you may have.
Hints:
Are you really feeding 9volts  DC not AC to your(MB102) power supply?Is the voltage much much higher than 9 volts? Is it the correct polarity DC? You should invest in  or borrow a  small voltmeter to determine if any of the above conditions exist.
 You do not have to have to have your bread board attached to the power supply(MB102) to test it. Detach your wall supply connector to the(MB102) and verify it is correct first..Ideally your wall supply should be somewhere around 7 volts to say 15 volts DC.
Finally, at this point if your chips smoked you may have already fried them??  Hope not..
If I forgot to mention anything others please feel free to jump in and help.

goodluck,
jolphil
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Is the chips being defective or its me..?
Sorry but it will be you.
Get a voltmeter, they are less than $10 at a thrift store, you can't do any electronics without one.
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Thank you for the tips and answers guys! i really appreciated all of your helps!  I will see what i can do and test on it! smiley-mr-green
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Hi again!

Thank you for answering my question in the first place smiley-grin.  I have selected the voltage ( 5v ), please refer to the attachment.
There is still no power being supplied to the bread board... and the AMS1117 chips is smoking smiley-eek-blue  Is the chips being defective or its me..? the power being supplied to the Bread Board power module is from a 220VAC to 9VDC transformer.  Any help will be appreciated!  Thanks in advance! smiley-lol

Regards,
Your board is defective! I received one a few weeks ago and the AMS1117-5 regulator gets hot within seconds of plugging in the barrel connector. The power adapter is the same one I use for my Arduino UNO board, so its not an input voltage problem. My tests show that there is about 185 ohms between the 5 V output and ground. But all the other connections seem to be intact. I expect its a problem within the printed circuit board layers and so it cannot be fixed.

This power module is ubiquitous - and sold by many different sellers. Keep in mind that today is Feb 6, 2013 and these defective units are still shipping. Sindya (one of many sellers on Ebay) offered gave me a partial refund. I won't buy anymore from anyone though; almost all models and versions have the same regulator chips and the same layout, and likely the same problem. I just don't know why its never been reported before. I have attached a schematic for the version that you have (and that I have). The vendor asked that I send them a manual if I find one - HAHAHAHA. Hope you have good luck. I plan to build my own.

The final joke is the USB connector. Its supposed to be a male, not a female (you're left with a female end when you connect an extension to the computer). If you have an adapter and connect it to your computer, you may find that the board uses neither the 5V nor 3.3V regulator. I just can't tell from the schematic.

* YwRobotMB102Schenatic41960.pdf (30.3 KB - downloaded 97 times.)
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If your 5V regulator is not burned up, it is damaged. You can see a burn mark on it in your picture. If it is working, it won't be soon. The fact that you have 3.3V selected and it is the 5V reg taking the hit would suggest it is something on the input to the 5V regulator (too high of a voltage) or a short after that. Connected to the 5V line are the LED, C2, C3, and the 3.3V regulator. I doubt the LED would blow it even if it shorted out since R1 would still limit current. C2 may be a crappy cap and shorted internally, or perhaps there is solder shorting out under C3. Finally, the 3.3v regulator may be shorted from Vin to GND. Unless they are using counterfit regulators, I would be surprised if the regulator is defective. I suspect the cap, C2. You could desolder it and see if things work with it removed. It is just a filtering cap and won't break the circuit with it removed (but might make the supply noisey.)
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If your 5V regulator is not burned up, it is damaged. You can see a burn mark on it in your picture. If it is working, it won't be soon. The fact that you have 3.3V selected and it is the 5V reg taking the hit would suggest it is something on the input to the 5V regulator (too high of a voltage) or a short after that. Connected to the 5V line are the LED, C2, C3, and the 3.3V regulator. I doubt the LED would blow it even if it shorted out since R1 would still limit current. C2 may be a crappy cap and shorted internally, or perhaps there is solder shorting out under C3. Finally, the 3.3v regulator may be shorted from Vin to GND. Unless they are using counterfit regulators, I would be surprised if the regulator is defective. I suspect the cap, C2. You could desolder it and see if things work with it removed. It is just a filtering cap and won't break the circuit with it removed (but might make the supply noisey.)
I removed Cap C2. There was no change. I know that the Vout of the 5v regulator goes to Vin of the 3.3 v regulator. From either of those points to ground shows a 180 ohm resistance.

Perhaps the point is that the whole thing cost about $2.50. It might be best to just scavenge the parts and build your own. It would be nice to stop the thing from being bought altogether or communicate the problem to the designers. Both seem impossible at this point.
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Yep. You can't even buy the regulators for that little. I guess I am glad I didn't order that model. I was actually just looking at those a couple weeks ago, but decided to buy mine from nkcelectronics instead which is 3.3/5V independently selectable for each rail (no on/off switch built in, though.) I like it.

https://www.nkcelectronics.com/readboard-Power-Supply-Stick-Dual-Voltage-5V-and-33V_p_374.html
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Yep. You can't even buy the regulators for that little. I guess I am glad I didn't order that model. I was actually just looking at those a couple weeks ago, but decided to buy mine from nkcelectronics instead which is 3.3/5V independently selectable for each rail (no on/off switch built in, though.) I like it.

https://www.nkcelectronics.com/readboard-Power-Supply-Stick-Dual-Voltage-5V-and-33V_p_374.html
Its a nice little board. Seems to have been designed for the MB102 breadboard even though its description doesn't say so. Its probably priced right since it comes assembled, but watch out for the shipping cost. Start a blog and let us know how it works out.
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I already have it. The only parts you have to assemble are soldering in the pin headers. I actually like that, because you could put in female headers instead if you didn't want to use it in your breadboard like it was designed.

It works wonderfully. I have no complaints about it. The only thing is that I wish it had a power switch built in, but I obviously knew it didn't when I bought it. Shipping was not crazy, either. I bought several other things there along with it.

Having the Vin header is also nice. I am actually using that directly since I have another power supply board supplying 9V to some motors. I just tapped off that and power this little board from the 9v supply.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2013, 08:04:07 pm by Retroplayer » Logged

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The AMS1117 had max voltage of only 10V, your 9V power adapter may output higher then 10V.
http://www.sz-xiangshuo.com/en/templates/default/images/AMS1117.pdf
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The AMS1117 had max voltage of only 10V, your 9V power adapter may output higher then 10V.
http://www.sz-xiangshuo.com/en/templates/default/images/AMS1117.pdf
I have a different datasheet that says the max Vin is 15V. Mine is from AMS and yours is from "HotChip". Hahaha. Which is correct? Who knows.

* ams1117.pdf (71.49 KB - downloaded 18 times.)
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The AMS1117 had max voltage of only 10V, your 9V power adapter may output higher then 10V.
http://www.sz-xiangshuo.com/en/templates/default/images/AMS1117.pdf
I have a different datasheet that says the max Vin is 15V. Mine is from AMS and yours is from "HotChip". Hahaha. Which is correct? Who knows.
These board are from china and  "HotChip" from china too, likely they used the same chips.
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