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Topic: Require assistance with LED Hula Hoop wiring, Seeeduino film, info inside... (Read 2 times) previous topic - next topic

nickem

Hey guys,

This is my first visit here, I've been gathering things for a project for my girlfriend who is very ecstatic about it.  She's very into hula hooping, and her last LED unit was rather spendy but doesn't offer a whole lot of features.  I'm aiming for a hoop that will have around 80-96 LEDs with about 2 million colors.  It should have some serious power behind it too, I'm really excited. 

I've already selected my components, but I need some help getting things right.  I'm going to start with a component list, followed by their pinouts, and also I have a link to a guy I'm essentially mimicking, with 2 main differences, who clearly knows what he's doing, unlike me.

Component list is as follows:
Seeeduino film
UarSBee for Seeeduino film
Parallax 5-position switch
Adafruit Digitally addressable LEDs x3m
Tenergy 32003 Circuit protector
Tenergy 3.7v batteries x3
USB 4.7v wall charger
Radio shack M power jack (male/female)
.6 or .75 ID HDPE tubing, enough to make 35" ID hula Hoop


I haven't decided or don't know what types of resistors I need on my switched circuit, and I also wanted to know if I need a potentiometer for raising/lowering the brightness of my LEDs or if I can use two of my outputs on my switch for this function instead.

Diagrams for components:
LED strip how-to
5-way switch diagram/how to
Basic circuit protector diagram


Here's the originator's blog post on how he did it using an Arduino pro Mini 328.  I am using a Seeeduino film to get it in  a smaller hoop:
Philihp.com
Here's his wiring diagram:
hula hoop wiring
Here is a very usefull Arduino pro mini 328 pinout with labels for converting between the two boards:
Pro Mini

The confusing part for me is how to wire up my switch so I can get an "on/off" function of the center push button using the Sleep function of the Film.  It claims its wired to PD2 on the breakout board section.   Aside from that, I just don't know how to get the wiring into and out of the board.   So far all I've come up with is the batteries, charger, and circuit protector for certain.

If anyone can help me out, I'd appreciate it.  Hopefully I laid it all out so someone can connect it all together better than me.

Nick

nickem

So, what I'm thinking here, is that I want to wire my 5-way switch to the seeeduino mainboard frame, with power/ground coming off the 3.3v 12c port, and a resistor inline the ground,  and then my three mode/sleep/color outputs to Analog 1,2,3 outputs, as is done in the Pro Mini circuit.  However, I don't know if this will give me any interrupts, as it seems the interrupts are only on the breakout frame 12c port.

Then, I was wondering where I want to pick up my Digital in and Clock In for my LED strip.  I was thinking possibly the ISP (in-system programming?) ports 11 and 13 like on the Pro Mini 328, but that doesn't seem right exactly. 

Those are my biggest concern.  Am I going to be able to get any of the sleep, mode, or color buttons to work for a sleep mode interrupt, and how do I make sure the sleep button works?  With software only?  And my other concern is I would like to get the LED strip working with Hardware SPI versus bit-banged methods as the original creator did, is this going to be possible with the Seeeduino?

Lastly, I want my switch to do the following:
press=sleep
left=brightness up
right=brightness down
up=mode
down=color

I think everything else is pretty easy, but I'm really unsure on what ports on the Seeeduino I need to choose for everything to work correctly once I get to programming it.  The stuff is rather expensive so I'm doing my best to fully understand it before I dive in too deep.  Thanks,

Nick

Chagrin

For hardware SPI you need pin D11 (MOSI, aka "Master Out Slave In") which connects to "DI" ("Data In") on the LED strip and D13 (SCK "Serial ClocK") to connect to "CI" ("Clock In"). These are shown within the "SPI" block on the film. Yes, it's just like the Pro Mini -- the film uses a pin-compatible ATMega168.

Where you wire the switch, the LT/RT/DN/UP/CT pins, is non-critical. There's an open group on the film D5-D9 that would be fine.

The only way to be certain your chip is sleeping is by putting a multimeter on its power line and watching the current.

nickem

Did you just use the Film Diagram on Sparkfun, or do you just know that about the atmega 168?  I'd like to know how you figured it out, I looked for a while and wasn't able to really figure it out decisively, I was just guessing.

I will use the digital, pins 5-9 then, I just wasn't sure if these would work for external interrupts when its sleeping.

Thank you for the response, I'm still learning this platform, its a lot easier when there are clear cut instructions.

*edit*  this is infinitely more helpful, thanks for getting me to dig a little deeper.
atmega 168 pinout

Chagrin

Sorry, I misunderstood your question. I'm only familiar with using a sleep timer and just assumed you'd be checking the buttons every X seconds to see if it's time to wake up.

http://arduino.cc/playground/Learning/ArduinoSleepCode

You can use pin D2 or D3 for this which is shown in the I2C block on the film.

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