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Topic: Superglue instead of solder? (Read 6 times) previous topic - next topic

MarkT

#10
Dec 06, 2012, 03:05 am Last Edit: Dec 06, 2012, 01:40 pm by MarkT Reason: 1
Wire wrap was believed to be a more reliable than solder I think - the forces used make a gas-tight weld between the wire
and the hard sharp-cornered square pins.  Solder joints can be "dry" if moved during cooling and this isn't always detectable
by simple inspection.  Also wire-wrap boards don't have traces that can crack, the wires all have some give if the thing flexes.

Wire wrap is _horrible_ to do, staring at hundreds of sharp pointed pins just isn't pleasant at all.  Soldering is far more
intuitive and relaxing I think!  

[ Remember plenty of flux, always clean the bit, hot-enough iron (there is no substitute for a temperature-controlled iron IMO
 If you are taking more than 2 or 3 seconds per joint something's probably wrong ]
[ I won't respond to messages, use the forum please ]

retrolefty

#11
Dec 06, 2012, 03:16 am Last Edit: Dec 06, 2012, 03:20 am by retrolefty Reason: 1

Wire wrap was believed to be a more reliable than solder I think - the forces used make a gas-tight weld between the wire
and the hard sharp-cornered square pins.  Solder joints can be "dry" if moved during cooling and this isn't always detectable
by simple inspection.  Also wire-wrap boards don't have traces that can crack, the wires all have some give if the thing flexes.

Wire wrap is _horrible_ to do, staring and hundreds of sharp pointed pins just isn't pleasant at all.  Soldering is far more
intuitive and relaxing I think!  

[ Remember plenty of flux, always clean the bit, hot-enough iron (there is no substitute for a temperature-controlled iron IMO
 If you are taking more than 2 or 3 seconds per joint something's probably wrong ]


I did a lot of wire wrapping in the 70s used on minicomputer systems as a field service engineer. It was very reliable, but took almost as much practice and skills as learning to solder/desolder well. Things got better when they came out will small portable battery powered wire wrap 'guns'. Unwrapping was an especially hard skill to master. I especially hated stripping the insulation off the ends of that special 30 gauge WW wire prior to wrapping the wire, that thin insulation material was very tough to strip and if you didn't use special dedicated wire strippers for that specific wire you were bound to nick the wire and have the wire break during wrapping or during the final 'pull the wire test'.

Funny thing is I'm left handed (hence my handle, old left-hander) so tended to make my wraps the opposite direction as most right handers would, and if a right hander had to come behind me later and try an unwrap one of my wraps they would have a hell of a time until they got out a magnifying glass and finally figured out what they were dealing with.  ;)

Lefty

CrossRoads

Wirewrapping is quick & easy. A good solder joint starts with a good mechanical joint - wirewrap makes that mechanical joint to start, and is quick & easy to change/fix if needed.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
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pluggy


Wirewrapping is quick & easy. A good solder joint starts with a good mechanical joint - wirewrap makes that mechanical joint to start, and is quick & easy to change/fix if needed.


Not so quick and easy if you solder it after wirewrapping.  :)  I'd have doubts whether you'd ever get it apart again.......

jackrae

Wire wrapping is wonderful for projects where you may have to change the wiring at some later date.  Back in the 70s, when  worked on safety systems we used a product manufactured by RIS for emergency shutdown systems and frequently had to alter the logic sequences as plant demands changed.  Although it might look a bit like a rats nest, providing you kept decent documentation it was great to work with.  BUT, you need the proper tools, you certainly cannot produce good wire wrap using a pair of long-nosed pliers.  And, of course, the pins must have sharp square corners, not round or "soft-cornered" ones like most of today's interboard jumpers.

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