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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 54063 times) previous topic - next topic

JakeSoft

#840
May 17, 2016, 02:45 am Last Edit: May 17, 2016, 02:45 am by JakeSoft
I also found this in the instructions:
"ISP download Online (WT588D download the content directly in the application environment), need keep WT588D module doesn't work, as pull low the RESET of WT88D to connect ground when download, or connect to P17 of WTU02, P17 at low level when download data, high level at ordinary times, thereby can reset the modules when downloadt."

Does this mean that when I am trying to upload the data via USB that I need to set the reset pin of the WT88D to LOW? I would have thought the USB method would do this automatically.

R.
Ah, that's some lovely Chinglish, isn't it? I think it does mean what you think it means. It's not unusual for reset pins to be pulled low for programming. In fact, I think even the AVR chips that Arduinos are based on do something similar to this method when burning the boot loader, although in that case I think it's just a quick pulse.

JcBailey

What kind of battery are you using it? From the pics it certainly looks broader than a18650.
It is a 18500. Here is a pic.

billpealer

#842
May 19, 2016, 02:41 pm Last Edit: May 19, 2016, 03:17 pm by billpealer
Hello anyone, can somebody suggest me exactly what mosfets and 5V controller to use? I can't read the specs on the picture as they are too small.

Any help is appreciated, thank you in advance
IRLB8743PBF

I have tried 3 different types of "logic level" n channel mosfets,.  those have been THE MOST RELIABLE with both PWM and digital (high/low) control.

here is a link.  they are twice the cost of competing types,.. 

er.. why do you need a 5v controller?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-30V-150A-Logic-Level-N-Channel-MOSFET-HEXFET-TO-220-IRLB8743PBF-US-Seller-/261645975007?hash=item3ceb50bddf:g:-xUAAOSw7NNUAcLf

billpealer

#843
May 19, 2016, 02:47 pm Last Edit: May 19, 2016, 03:16 pm by billpealer
I am curious about the answer to this. I use Windows 7, but I'm unsure if after I'm eventually forced to upgrade if I'll still be able to use these chips. Has anyone had success with Windows 10 and the WT588D?
win7, 8, 8.1 and win 10.  All work with he same driver install package with the WT-U 32.

If you hare having issues, don't forget you can right click on the installer.exe or the actuall program .exe and "run in compatibility mode"  it may be optimized for XP or win7.

Also,..  there are a couple off forum discussions on USB cables/ports being the cause of an issue like this.   swap your cable, or try another port on your tower, maybe a back direct port on the MB instead of a front port connected with jumpers and often hubbed. And everytime you swap a cable, uninstall and reinstall the drivers.  i had some connection problems, and it was because i was trying to connect the WT USB while the arduino was on and powering the WT and the same time. i think i more or less crossed the streams.  didn't hurt anything.  just didn't work till i unplugged my nano.

also make sure you are not shorting jumpers. i would connect to it sitting on a paper plate or other insulated surface,..  upload, disconnect and then slap it in your breadboard.  do you have a spare WT-U?  the joys of trouble shooting.  it could be anything, or everything.

Rusty1234

win7, 8, 8.1 and win 10.  All work with he same driver install package with the WT-U 32.

If you hare having issues, don't forget you can right click on the installer.exe or the actuall program .exe and "run in compatibility mode"  it may be optimized for XP or win7.

Also,..  there are a couple off forum discussions on USB cables/ports being the cause of an issue like this.   swap your cable, or try another port on your tower, maybe a back direct port on the MB instead of a front port connected with jumpers and often hubbed. And everytime you swap a cable, uninstall and reinstall the drivers.  i had some connection problems, and it was because i was trying to connect the WT USB while the arduino was on and powering the WT and the same time. i think i more or less crossed the streams.  didn't hurt anything.  just didn't work till i unplugged my nano.

also make sure you are not shorting jumpers. i would connect to it sitting on a paper plate or other insulated surface,..  upload, disconnect and then slap it in your breadboard.  do you have a spare WT-U?  the joys of trouble shooting.  it could be anything, or everything.
I've tried a second USB cable, 3 different USB slots, running in compatibility mode and pulling the reset pin to LOW. Both cables and all USB ports can be used to program the Nano so I don't think it is that. I think I just have a dead unit.

R.

billpealer

I've tried a second USB cable, 3 different USB slots, running in compatibility mode and pulling the reset pin to LOW. Both cables and all USB ports can be used to program the Nano so I don't think it is that. I think I just have a dead unit.

R.
try a different PC, if no worky, then I would assume you have a dud.

heck, you can't even test it in key mode if you can't push sound to it.

TimeSpace123

jakesoft thanks of the help up youtube.
but
how do you set up the MOSFETs?

Canobi


JakeSoft


billpealer

Anyone want to share battery info?  Has there been a winner elected or clear losers identified for a one size fits most battery solution?

I am using cr123 3.7v batts. small, good power drain. but they have a capacity limit of about 1000mah. 2 in series is smaller than one 18650 for a very small 7.4 option.

But with Canobi's board possibly becoming a thing, the CR123's OD maybe too fat.  So maybe a 14500 (AA) is a better way to go.

My RadioShack just closed and I bought, 4 packs of 2 14500's and a charger for $1.25 per .  it was just over $5!  Score.

This is also a nice little add-on for your jedi belt, if you plan to go CR123 as a batt choice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131293954506?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

DrMullings

Hi,

I'm following this thread for longer time and been trying to make my own lightsaber with different hardware configurations.
At this moment I am waiting for a MMA8452Q Accelerometer since it has two configurable interrupts for a clash and swing onboard.
Yesterday I saw JakeSofts Attiny soundboard and tried to copy it with fritzing, as a simpler solution, but I miss two pins for the serial communication with the WT588D, how did you manage this?

Thanks a lot for this thread

DrMullings

JakeSoft

Hi,

I'm following this thread for longer time and been trying to make my own lightsaber with different hardware configurations.
At this moment I am waiting for a MMA8452Q Accelerometer since it has two configurable interrupts for a clash and swing onboard.
Yesterday I saw JakeSofts Attiny soundboard and tried to copy it with fritzing, as a simpler solution, but I miss two pins for the serial communication with the WT588D, how did you manage this?

Thanks a lot for this thread

DrMullings
Welcome! For the ATTiny demo video I used the WT588D in one-line serial mode so that I only needed one I/O to command. I did not connect the Busy pin on the module to any I/O, so my sketch just blind-fires one line serial commands and assumes they work. The sketch in the video was built using the Universal Saber lib.

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