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[Reply #15 on:]

That is much diffident then the one I have been going by;

Take a look

[Reply #16 on:]

Here's another thread worth reading on the 3 PWM question: here

Cheers! Geoff

[Reply #17 on:]

I put the switch on pin 2 and the last LED on 3, but no go.

I am not liking this new hobby.  When does it start to get fun.

I am using this project as part of a Night lite I am make, I planed on staring the carving tomorrow.

 

[Reply #18 on:]

There are only 2 PWM pins  PIN 0 (5)
and PIN 1 (6)

This is a common misconception.  ATTiny85 has 4 pins capable of PWM, with two sharing the same clock source.  I routinely use this little uC to run RGB LEDs.

Sorry still stuck on this iPad or would post an example.

Also, it is possible to drive any of the pins by software PWM if the application is lighting or anything else where accuracy or high frequencies aren't a requirement.

Cheers! Geoff

Really! if i had of known this 2 weeks ago, you'd have saved me about 30 bucks!

Which pins use PWM on the attiny85, i'll update my schematic  - Thanks

[Reply #19 on:]

Geoff,

I moved the last LED off of pin 2 (7) and onto pin pin 4 (3). Works

Now I got to figure out the delay on the last set of instruction ( Flame look).

Let me know how it looks on yours.

Thanks.

PS.
I have been stuck on this all Day. thanks for the heads up on the PWM pins.

[Reply #20 on:]

That's excellent news.

Confirming the changes my side were removing the Serial.begin() and these pin assignments

Code:

int switchPin = 3;              // IC leg 2 (PB3)
int led1Pin = 0;                // IC leg 5 (PB0)
int led2Pin = 1;                // IC leg 6 (PB1)
int led3Pin = 4;                // IC leg 3 (PB4)

Also, here's how it would look modified to use the internal pull-up resistor on the switch (as mentioned earlier).  For this circuit you'd not have any additional resistors on the switch circuit, just wire to the switch and from there to ground.

Code:

/*
 *  Night Lite, final version
 */

int switchPin = 3;              // IC leg 2 (PB3)
int led1Pin = 0;                // IC leg 5 (PB0)
int led2Pin = 1;                // IC leg 6 (PB1)
int led3Pin = 4;                // IC leg 3 (PB4)

int val;                        // variable for reading the pin status
int val2;                       // variable for reading the delayed status
int buttonState;                // variable to hold the button state

int lightMode = 0;              // What mode is the light in?

void setup() {
  pinMode(switchPin, INPUT);    // Set the switch pin as input
  digitalWrite(switchPin, HIGH);  // set internal pull-up resistor
  pinMode(led1Pin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(led2Pin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(led3Pin, OUTPUT);


  buttonState = digitalRead(switchPin);   // read the initial state
}

void loop(){
  val = digitalRead(switchPin);      // read input value and store it in val
  delay(10);                         // 10 milliseconds is a good amount of time
  val2 = digitalRead(switchPin);     // read the input again to check for bounces
  if (val == val2) {                 // make sure we got 2 consistant readings!
    if (val != buttonState) {          // the button state has changed!
      if (val == LOW) {                // check if the button is pressed
        if (lightMode == 0) {          // if its off
          lightMode = 1;               // turn lights on!
        }
        else {
          if (lightMode == 1) {        // if its all-on
            lightMode = 2;             // make it blink!
          }
          else {
            if (lightMode == 2) {      // if its blinking
              lightMode = 3;           // make it wave!
            }
            else {
              if (lightMode == 3) { //  if its waving,
                lightMode = 4;
              }
              else{
                if (lightMode == 4){
                  lightMode =0;
                } // turn light off!
              }
            }
          }
        }
      }
      buttonState = val;                 // save the new state in our variable
    }

    // Now do whatever the lightMode indicates
    if (lightMode == 0) { // all-off
      digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);

    }

    if (lightMode == 1) { // Blue On
      digitalWrite(led1Pin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
    }

    if (lightMode == 2) { // Blue off, Green On
      digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(led2Pin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);

    }
    if (lightMode == 3)  { // Red On Green Off
      digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(led3Pin, HIGH);
    }   
    if (lightMode == 4) { // Flame
      analogWrite(led1Pin, random(120)+135);
      analogWrite(led2Pin, random(120)+135);
      analogWrite(led3Pin, random(120)+135);
      delay(random(100));

    }
  }
}

Cheers  ! Geoff

[Reply #21 on:]

When I removed the Serial.begin() that's when thing started to work. Can you explain why.

Again sorry, but this is how I learn.

Thanks.

[Reply #22 on:]

No need for any apology.  

It's simply that Serial is a set of functions that talk to the RX and TX pins via the inbuilt UART on the ATMega.  There is no hardware serial support on the ATTiny85 so that function cannot work.  

There is a software serial available for the Arduino-Tiny library if I recall correctly so the functionality can be achieved another way if you need it.

Cheers ! Geoff

[Reply #23 on:]

Thanks to all your help,  I got it working and leaned a lot in the process.

Now one more thing I would like to ask. 

Because this is going to be a Night Lite I don't want to use batters. I don't know how log they would last.

That being said what would be the right size power supply.

Thanks
 

[Reply #24 on:]

Hi

Glad to hear it's all working now your side.

Depending on the particular ATTiny85 you're using there's a broad range of voltages which will be suitable.

Operating Voltage
– 1.8 - 5.5V for ATtiny25V/45V/85V
– 2.7 - 5.5V for ATtiny25/45/85

Any wall wart in the 3 to 5 Volt range will be a safe bet (and somewhat cheap, if you don't have one laying about from an old mobile phone or similar to repurpose).

Just remember if you use something lower than 5V you will need to adjust the size of the current limiting resistors you use for your LEDs down or they'll be dimmer (maybe not a bad thing for a night light, but best to test first).  LEDcalc.com can help with the maths.

All the best,
Geoff

[Reply #25 on:]

(PCINT5/RESET/ADC0/dW) PB5
(PCINT3/XTAL1/CLKI/OC1B/ADC3) PB3
(PCINT4/XTAL2/CLKO/OC1B/ADC2) PB4
GND
VCC
PB2 (SCK/USCK/SCL/ADC1/T0/INT0/PCINT2)
PB1 (MISO/DO/AIN1/OC0B/OC1A/PCINT1)
PB0 (MOSI/DI/SDA/AIN0/OC0A/OC1A/AREF/PCINT0)

pins 2,3,5,6 have PWM then!

Well wow! - 2 are high speed and the other 2 are not...

[Reply #26 on:]

And two share the same pwm pin

So there are three different pwm pins:

PB4
PB0
PB1

[Reply #27 on:]

So there are three different pwm pins:

PB4
PB0
PB1

Yes, as I read it PB3 & PB4 are the inverted output of each other, so while they're both PWM they'll be the same as each other, only out of phase.  This is a part of the datasheet that I get stuck in so I reserve the right to be wrong

Geoff

[Reply #28 on:]

Kculm

The image I have shows pin 3 on leg two.

Leg 1 Reset
Leg 2 PIN 3( Analog input 3)
Leg 3 PIN 4( Analog input 2)
Leg 4 GND
Leg 5 PIN 0 (PWM)
Leg 6 PIN 3 (PWM)
Leg 7 PIN 2 (Analog Input 1)
Leg 8 VCC

My pinout cross reference lists Leg 6 as pin1, which has been working in my sketches.
Am I missing something but how can leg2 and leg6 be pin3 in Arduino?
TomJ

[Reply #29 on:]

My pinout cross reference lists Leg 6 as pin1, which has been working in my sketches.
Am I missing something but how can leg2 and leg6 be pin3 in Arduino?
TomJ

Hi Tom

You're not missing anything, the info he had was a bit incomplete/wrong initially, then he started using this: 

Checkout the pins on this diagram http://www.akafugu.jp/images/microcontroller-reference-sheet.png

Cheers ! Geoff