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Topic: Usb pcb mount fix on midi drum machine (Read 540 times) previous topic - next topic

tylab

Hey guys, so this might not be directly related to Arduino, but I figured this was the best place to ask it. I have a usb powered midi controller called the Native Instruments Maschine. Recently, it collided with the ground USB port first at a rather unpleasant velocity. The USB b pcb mount tore off the board. The +5v, Grnd, Data + and Data - feet all snapped near the physical port, essentially leaving four metal prongs still soldered to the board. I soldered wires to each of those prongs and brought them off the board to a USB connector I stole off an old modem. When I plugged it in, it lit a portion of the leds but the lcd screens did not turn on and my computer did not recognize the device. Thinking I messed up the salvaged USB connector I cut open a USB cable and basically soldered it directly to the board's USB connectors . Now no lights come on :( . On closer inspection I discovered that a component called L1 was broken off by a metal foot of the usb pcb mount. The +5v and Grnd immediately lead to the missing L1 component from the USB pcb connection. From what I can tell, I'm guessing this is an inductor meant to smooth the power supply voltage out? What value the inductor was is a mystery to me and I don't think anyone at Native Instruments is going to tell me.
So, my questions are as follows
1. Theoretically should it work if I solder wires from the old USB connector's prongs stuck in the board to a new USB connector and then plug a USB cable into that?
2. If some lights came on before and now none do, it seems like I screwed things up even more. Is it possible capacitors/inductors held enough energy to power some of the leds for a short time even though no power is being supplied? That might explain why it seemed to work before.
3. I found a forum post over on spark fun about someone who fried the L1 inductor on their usb RFID chip, and it seems like a similar situation. Those who replied to the post seemed to say that because the inductor was functioning as a low pass filter for the voltage that it didn't really matter the exact value of the inductor he replaced it with. That  board's inductor was a 33nH inductor. So, could I just use a 33nH inductor on my board because they are both usb powered devices?

Sorry to write such a long post, I'm still new to all of this and I have a lot of questions! Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as a new Maschine is a hefty 500 dollars :( :( :(

Here is a photo of the missing L1 component and of my poor soldering job on the USB pins

be80be

Most USB use a ferrite bead on the supply so I would say that's what your looking at It's not going to hurt to use one there.

jonisonvespaa

#2
Jan 20, 2013, 09:14 pm Last Edit: Jan 20, 2013, 09:34 pm by jonisonvespa Reason: 1
i had one of those nice bit of kit

what i would do is try to find a pic of the pcb and have a look and see what the component is, maby try the Ni forum and ask there

you may be lucky it may be a Link 0 ohm resistor? have a look for another "L" on the board see what that is

i would fix it like this find same connector they are dirt cheap try to solder it back on if the tracks are damaged use really small wire to solder to tracks, superglue, and if you can drill a hole either side and use a small tie wrap to keep it close to the pcb

good luck

there is someone on flicker who's ripped one apart and taken loads of pics.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/psychlist1972/7966612222/in/set-72157631489556008/

another way to attach the connector to the pcb is this, scratch away the top surface of the board so you see copper, then you can solder the connector to the pcb, it will solder but you will need a lot of heat



L1 looks like a capacitor, must the same as L2 whatever that is if you can identify that your laughing

tylab

be80be do you mean something along the lines of this? http://www.globalsources.com/gsol/I/Bead-inductor/p/sm/1001862806.htm . Well I looked at the L2 component and it doesn't have any markings on it so I don't know what it is. Hmmm. Thanks for that photo jonisonvespa! Now I can be pretty sure L1 and L2 are the same component.

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