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Topic: Motorcycle light-show mod (Read 966 times) previous topic - next topic

scooby56

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on what to read-up on to help me with my idea.

I'd like to program the Arduinos IC chip for use on a motorcycle. It will be controlling a lighting mod kit which consists of LEDs, Halos and HID projector head lights.

My IC needs to know when:
1. parking lights are on
2. Head lights are on high beam or low beam
3. Start motor is engage (or switch for SM is depressed)

To get a compatible signal input for the IC chip, is it just a matter of running some automotive cable from the lights/SM and have an appropriate resistor on a PCB? Will it this affect the normal running of the lights/SM in anyway?

Also, for the IC output signal, can anyone offer advise on the use of a Releay/MOSFET or something else to get the appropriate voltage to control the lights? I'd like to be able to have the LEDs strobe when showing if this makes a difference

I didn't want to put anyone off with a long post so have attached an image for reference. I'm happy to offer more information on requirements. Basically, with software I have a whole lot of control over how my lighting mod works once the IC is integrated. And I can change without rewiring. I can have show(off) mode and everyday riding mode :o)

arduinohabib

Since the lights are DC, I don't think you need solid state relays. Just use MOSFETs. I recommend the IRF540N.
What is man's best friend? The breadboard!

scooby56

Thanks for replying Habib.

So while Im off to read the datasheet on IRF540N and watch some MOSFET for dummies video on youtube, how about the signal input?
Will I need large inline automotive-type resistors? and is there more to it than that?
Will the normal running of the circuit that supplies the signal be affected by adding to it?

I intend the standalone IC to run off the motorcycle battery, are the power requirement the same as a full Arduino board? and would the ground pin run to the motorcycle frame/chassis?

Many thanks.

arduinohabib

Hello. I recommend you to watch the tutorial on MOSFETs by a youtube user called afrotechmods--I don't have the exact link. You won't need big resistors. Connect the positive of the motercycle battery to the MOSFET's source, the light or whatever to the drain, and when you apply +5v to the gate, positive electricty flows from source to drain, and when you connect ground then electricity doesn't flow.

this picture will be usefull. G is gate, D is drain, and S is source. If the MOSFET heats up, you can screw a heat sink on to it.
Good luck with your project!
What is man's best friend? The breadboard!

arduinohabib

#4
Jan 20, 2013, 01:00 pm Last Edit: Jan 20, 2013, 01:22 pm by arduinohabib Reason: 1
You can first experiment with your Arduino board, build the circuit on a breadboard, then if it works you can use a standalone IC, and solder a circuit board.
What is man's best friend? The breadboard!

arduinohabib

#5
Jan 20, 2013, 01:16 pm Last Edit: Jan 20, 2013, 01:22 pm by arduinohabib Reason: 1

So while Im off to read the datasheet on IRF540N and watch some MOSFET for dummies video on youtube, how about the signal input?
Will I need large inline automotive-type resistors? and is there more to it than that?
Will the normal running of the circuit that supplies the signal be affected by adding to it?

No, you will not need huge cement resistors. Now you have a MOSFET, turning the motorbike lights on and off would be the same as blinking an led on the Arduino. You can just use the "analogWrite" function.

I intend the standalone IC to run off the motorcycle battery, are the power requirement the same as a full Arduino board? and would the ground pin run to the motorcycle frame/chassis?

I'm not so sure of the power ratings, but you can probally find it easily. You can then select an appropriate valtage regulator. The voltage regulator will have three pins--input valtage, common ground and output voltage. You connect the input to the positive lead of the battery. Connect the common ground to the negative lead, and the output gives you the regulated voltage. You connect the ground to the common ground. The voltage regulator might get hot as well, you might also have to screw on a heat sink.
What is man's best friend? The breadboard!

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