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Author Topic: Fixing USBasp based on ATmega8  (Read 40405 times)
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Wahiawa, Hawaii
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No special firmware, only the standard fischl releases, usbasp.atmega8.2011-05-28.hex.

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No special firmware, only the standard fischl releases, usbasp.atmega8.2011-05-28.hex.



Thanks. I've also found this solution.
http://www.sciencetronics.com/greenphotons/?p=938

I'm still investigating ...
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Wahiawa, Hawaii
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Yes, that Uwezi solution will work when you don't remove the three solder bridges on the back of the programmer.

If you use the standard fischl firmware then you will need to remove the three solder bridges.

Either way they both work.

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Yes, that Uwezi solution will work when you don't remove the three solder bridges on the back of the programmer.

If you use the standard fischl firmware then you will need to remove the three solder bridges.

Either way they both work.



Thanks, I did it using Uwezi file 20130212_mega8_usbisp.hex.
(Note I used my Arduino Mega 2560 board as ISP)

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Hello,

I'm sorry to bump this up but I recently received a usbasp and I just can't get it to work. To be more specific, it's this one: http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/171061785254?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

on the chip is written atmega8l

I tried alot of things with avrdude but I just keep getting device signature 0x000000. I'm using an arduino uno where I cleared the eeprom first and than uploaded the ArduinoISP sketch onto it. I basically followed this tutorial: http://www.rogerclark.net/?p=702

But whatever I do I just can't get the thing to work. In the device manager it keeps saying unknown device(tried several drivers).

This is a screenshot when I have connected everything and I do the read:



as you can see it seems to read but in the end it just gives the device signature 0x00000 error.

when I than try to flash the new firmware from http://www.fischl.de/usbasp I receive the following:



I also tried with the -F and the -B 2(also 6, 8 and 10) options but without any luck. I am able to backup the "original_firmware.bin" version of the board. But again, can't write it back.
I'm starting to believe this usbasp was broken before I even received it.
What you guys think? Is there hope to repair this?
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Wahiawa, Hawaii
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On that betamcu USBASP programmer, you need to jumper the two J2 pins together next to the MOSI pin on the 10-pin header.  This will pass the reset pin from the header to the reset pin on the mega8L chip.  Then you should be able to program it.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2013, 06:47:01 pm by hiduino » Logged

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On that betamcu USBASP programmer, you need to jumper the two J2 pins together next to the MOSI pin on the 10-pin header.  This will pass the reset pin from the header to the reset pin on the mega8L chip.  Then you should be able to program it.


Hi hiduino,

I know that. That is what I did (that is also explained in the tutorial I followed). I even tried it without bridging the J2 connector but that way I wasn't even able to read the usbasp. So this is something else I believe.
I've read on the 3th page your post about you had an Atmega8L chip design a while ago and that those didn't come with the USBasp firmware but some kind of emulation instead.
Could it be that the bits are locked and I have to erase them first? If so, how can be this done?
Or I received just a broken usbasp..
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Wahiawa, Hawaii
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The error you are getting indicates the m8l is not being reset.  When you attempt to use avrdude on the m8l does the LED on the programmer turn off?  If the LED stays on, then the m8l chip is not getting the reset signal.

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The error you are getting indicates the m8l is not being reset.  When you attempt to use avrdude on the m8l does the LED on the programmer turn off?  If the LED stays on, then the m8l chip is not getting the reset signal.



I'm not sure about that, i'll check this once i'm home. With LED on the programmer you mean the LED on the arduino, right? Or the usbasp? Because if I remember correctly the usbasp led never lit up.

this is how I have set it up.

[IMG=http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/259/cpom.jpg]http://[/img]

and the usbasp:

[IMG=http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/9215/pzjd.jpg][/IMG]

I also tried with the 10 pin to 6 pin converter but since the length only gets longer i'm not surprised this will even work.
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Wahiawa, Hawaii
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There is an LED on the USBasp programmer that turn on under normal USB access, it should be off during avrdude access.

Does the LED on the USBasp even light up when you plug it in the USB (with the J2 un-jumpered)?  If not then it does sound like it's bad.



* USBasp_betamcu.PNG (500.67 KB, 653x490 - viewed 92 times.)
« Last Edit: August 28, 2013, 02:42:27 pm by hiduino » Logged

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none of the LED on the USBasp lits up. Not even when I insert the usb normally in the pc. This is indeed not good. But the pc does recognize the sub, but gives unknown device. I did found this though, http://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2571

these are exactly the same as mine. I didn't check if mine has the 221 resistors on it. I will check this later today and perhaps try to remove the 4 packs of resistors and replace them. I contacted the seller on ebay and he said he will send me another one.
Only question I have is if I remove the 221 resistor pack, will I still have to bridge the J2? Or won't this be necessary now?
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vermont
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my usbasp look the same but have a yellow power led that is on all the time. in fact i dab it with black nail polish to dim the glare. if its like mine and theres no light then probably its a bad usbasp? or bad usb port?

also note that changing to a different usb port usually requires running the driver again. however my power led stays on even without driver installed.

why did you update the software? why are you going to change the resistor? you are aware new 100% working usbasp are available on ebay for $2-$3?
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my usbasp look the same but have a yellow power led that is on all the time. in fact i dab it with black nail polish to dim the glare. if its like mine and theres no light then probably its a bad usbasp? or bad usb port?

I checked the resistors and mine says its 101. So no reason to change these. Also, none of the LED's works(J2 unbridged). So my guess is this one was broken already, tried all the usb ports and 2 different pc's (win 7 and win xp). As mentioned in the link, you never know what you will get when you order one.  I'll check the 2nd usbasp that the sender offered me when I replied that he send my a broken one.
The only reason I ordered an USBasp was that I could reflash my KK 2.0 board. But in the meantime I managed to do this with using the Arduino uno only (http://arduinodev.woofex.net/2013/02/11/how-to-flash-kk-2-0-using-an-arduino-uno/) now i'm also sure the arduino uno wasn't the problem.

[/quote]why did you update the software? why are you going to change the resistor? you are aware new 100% working usbasp are available on ebay for $2-$3?
[/quote]

I haven't updated the software because the moment I received it didn't work. The usbasp didn't accept any of the drivers, so my guess was this came empty and so I tried to upload the new firmware to it. what number does it say on yours usbasp (the 4 pack resistors)?
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vermont
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4pak on all mine, which are mostly betemcu, says 101 (100ohms). there are incompatible usbasp clones out there but rare i think. out of literally hundreds purchased on ebay and aliexpress for my business all of them worked except one. if an item is advertised as usbasp then it should perform 100% as one with avrdude. if not then replacement with one that does or refund is in order.
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You guys seem to be wasting lots of time spinning your wheels and just guessing at things.
Guessing is not a good way to go about doing things and incorrect guesses
can lead to breaking things.
My suggestion is to put on your big boy pants, get out your magnifying glass,
and follow the traces on the PCB and see how the chip is wired up.
That way you will end up with a schematic of the board you have and
will know exactly how to hook things up to get it reprogrammed.

At a minimum you need to follow the traces from the AVR for:
- reset
- SCK
- MISO
- SS
- where all jumpers are connected.
- where all leds are connected

It isn't that hard to do I do this all the time on these low cost boards
from USBasp boards to Arduino shields.
It shouldn't take more than half an hour at most, and my guess
is that more than half an hour of time has been burned/lost already
just guessing at things.

Also, keep in mind that not all the vendors wire up the jumpers and LEDs to the same
pins. Some change the connections and then change the firmware to match their wiring.
So after drawing up the schematic for your board, you need to verify that connections
for the LEDs and jumpers match what is used by the firmware you are attempting to burn
into the device.
If you find that your board is not using the default wiring,
you may see that you have to go in and make some small tweaks to the actual
firmware and to make a custom firmware build for that board.
I've had to do this on one occasion.

--- bill
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