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Topic: Alarm clock w/ light control (w/ touch backlight panel) (Read 5 times) previous topic - next topic


Mar 01, 2013, 09:56 pm Last Edit: Mar 05, 2013, 07:32 am by qwertysimo Reason: 1
Hi. I am working on my recent project. To be precise, on it's final phase - bringing all components together. I wonder if there is somebody interested to see another Arduino based alarm clock when there are so many great alarm clock projects. However, I decided to go public with it and document some parts of my work to motivate Arduino fans.

There were couple of reasons for this project. Our bedroom is rather small with no room for bedside tables with bedside lights, alarm clocks, books, mobile phones or spectacles. Together with my wife we discussed and combined all these requirements into a project I am writing about - clock, alarm clock and light controller - 3-in-1 solution.

Still reading? Requirements/functions overview so far:

  • regular clock showing time of day, date and day of week,

  • two independent alarm clocks, snooze function, audio and visual alarm,

  • two independent lights and light controllers, intensity control, auto-off,

  • large, good visible and easy to use interface,

  • elegant case.

More to come...

201303031217: Modified topic subject.
201303050732: Modified topic subject.


I don't know, this part:
"large, good visible and easy to use interface, elegant case."

seems to contradict this part:
"no room for bedside tables with bedside lights, alarm clocks, books, mobile phones or spectacles"

Seems more detail is needed...
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
Arduino for Teens available at Amazon.com.

Udo Klein

IMHO the requirements could be translated to:
- use a projector to display anything at the ceiling and
- use a standard IR remote (plus a IR decoder on the Arduino side) as an input.
Check out my experiments http://blog.blinkenlight.net


Thanks for comments.

I don't know, this part... seems to contradict this part...

I will show we accomplished to combine these two somehow.

... requirements could be...
... projector...
... IR remote...

When we decided to include an alarm clock in project, I reasearched alarm clocks available on market in effort to find some must-have features missing on our list.
Ceiling projection has not impressed us at all. As we both wear prescript eyeglasses, we prefer objects to be closer when not wearing eyeglasses ;)
IR remote - good tip for another project, thanks. No practical use or need for it in this case.


Mar 02, 2013, 11:50 am Last Edit: Mar 02, 2013, 11:54 am by qwertysimo Reason: 1
Let's start with the controller board...

(Click on the thumbnail to see full size.)
The power section takes 12 V as input which is needed for lights. Reduced to 5 V and 3.3 V for other components, available via screw terminals as well for future use.

Serial line and ISP - I found comfortable to use UNO board with removed 328, wired to my boards for serial communication when debugging instead of having USB/serial adapter. ISP, no comment.

I2C lines - pulled up to 5 V and 3.3 V for used ICs, common logic level converter with MOSFETs used.

Lights outputs - screw terminals to connect LED lights. Switched by MOSFETs driven by PWM output from 328.

ATmega328P - running at 16 MHz, standard standalone wiring, reset button. Left unpopulated soldering pads next to IC holder for future use.

Battery - power backup for RTC IC, with IC reset button.

(Click on the thumbnail to see full size.)
DS3231 - real time clock IC. I prefered this one to DS1307 for this project because of the precision.

555 - operating in astable multivibrator mode to drive a piezo buzzer. I prefered this to use tone() & delay() combo.

As you can see I use home made PCBs. To be honest, I have never used any PCB fabrication service for my DIY home projects -  never had a good reason for it. I tuned my PCB creation and I can safely go down to 0.2 mm tracks. You can see I place SMD components at bottom layer. Reason is obvious - to minimize via count. I leave as much copper on board as possible/reasonable to save etching solution. I usualy use UV curable solder mask from eBay as well but I just ran out of it. Many damn it - I believe they don't know how to work with it. Results are very nice when you master the procedure. No silk screen so far, just etched text/symbols. It takes less than hour to make etched double sided PCB, measured from template printing. You can calculate the costs.

More to come...

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