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Author Topic: Problems Uploading sketch to my Custom Arduino "Uno"  (Read 1799 times)
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The chip calls pin 2 Rx. Depends on which "end" that refers to, however the outgoing data (to the chip) should be on pin 2.
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I tried reversing the tx and rx lines, just to be certain. I get the same error that way too. (0x30)
Also, I have attached some pictures of the FTDI board and my arudino connected to it.


* IMAG0947.jpg (1439.13 KB, 3264x1840 - viewed 22 times.)

* IMAG0948.jpg (1588.23 KB, 3264x1840 - viewed 25 times.)
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Did you say earlier if there was a bootloader on the chip already?
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Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years. Check out the ATMega1284P based Bobuino and other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  www.crossroadsfencing.com/BobuinoRev17.
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Yes, It does have the optiboot bootloader. This chip was pulled from and arduino Uno. I can program it on the breadboard just fine.
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That is just odd then.
Can you post your schematic?
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This is all I have for a schematic. I added a female header off of pin 1 of the 328, and a 10K pull up resister on pins 2 and 3 of the 328.
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Arduino-or-The-DIY-Duino/step18/Putting-it-Together/
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Earlier you mentioned that you have a 10K pull-up on the reset pin 1.  I don't see that on your circuit board pictures unless it is hidding somewhere.   I do see the other two 10K resistors attached to pins 2 and 3.

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As I understand, specific 328P programs in an UNO & in a solder less breadboard but NOT on the circuit board?  There may be oscillator issue with the xtal circuit... Perhaps due to the board being contaminated or etching problems.  It takes very little to "pull" the xtal off-frequency.

Try this: program a simply 'count forever' loop with LED blink and numbers to serial out.  Configure BAUD at 9600.  Test on solder less breadboard.  Move uC to circuit board.  Retest.  If the board does not work, likely a timing issue so changed the 16MHz xtal first and then break out the high-power magnifier if problem continues.

Ray
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Its trying to hide.LOL Its just before the female headers labled 0 - 4 .
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mrburnette: I have done exactly that. The one on the cicuit board is the UNO chip. However, it is revovable. So, I have been able to breadboard it and program it with the blink and the fade sketch. I have also suspected the OSC as being an issue. I changed that and the 22pF caps. the caps are going to ground.
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Do you see any indication that auto-reset is actually working?  Stick an LED on "D 13" and see whether it does the "quick blinks" when you start an upload.  Maybe stick some LEDs are RX/TX as well, if your USB/Serial converter doesn't already have them (if it DOES have them, do they flash?)

This sort of minimum board is swell when you design and procedures are all finalized, but it's a bit primitive when it comes to debugging...

I'm still suspecting an auto-reset problem.  Can you get it to upload at all using a manual reset?
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mrburnette: I have done exactly that. The one on the cicuit board is the UNO chip. However, it is revovable. So, I have been able to breadboard it and program it with the blink and the fade sketch. I have also suspected the OSC as being an issue. I changed that and the 22pF caps. the caps are going to ground.

Old trick:
Use an AM battery portable and tune to an empty area on the lower end of the AM band.  Power the Arduino board with the AM radio on and the internal antenna placed near the 328P... Adjust both volume and tuning to pick up some of the digital signal ... Then try to load a sketch... You will be able to hear the reset.

You may wish to try this on your breadboard FIRST to get the hang of what you are listening for... The PC board should work the same.  An UNO will be different in that it has 2 uCs.

I still think the xtal may be pulled off frequency.  You can try some flux remover with an old toothbrush to clean it up... A hairdryer on low heat will evaporate the alcohol and any water contained in the scrub down.

Ray
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Quote
Old trick:
Use an AM battery portable and tune to an empty area on the lower end of the AM band.  Power the Arduino board with the AM radio on and the internal antenna placed near the 328P... Adjust both volume and tuning to pick up some of the digital signal ... Then try to load a sketch... You will be able to hear the reset.

You may wish to try this on your breadboard FIRST to get the hang of what you are listening for... The PC board should work the same.  An UNO will be different in that it has 2 uCs.

I still think the xtal may be pulled off frequency.  You can try some flux remover with an old toothbrush to clean it up... A hairdryer on low heat will evaporate the alcohol and any water contained in the scrub down.

I will try this. But, I have to wait till Monday before I can get a hold of an AM receiver. I am inclined to agree with you. I really can't find anything else wrong.

Quote
Do you see any indication that auto-reset is actually working?  Stick an LED on "D 13" and see whether it does the "quick blinks" when you start an upload.  Maybe stick some LEDs are RX/TX as well, if your USB/Serial converter doesn't already have them (if it DOES have them, do they flash?)

This sort of minimum board is swell when you design and procedures are all finalized, but it's a bit primitive when it comes to debugging...

I'm still suspecting an auto-reset problem.  Can you get it to upload at all using a manual reset?

I am sure that reset is being pulled low. I have tested it with a meter and checked with an LED. I tried the manual reset and when I get it right I get the same 0x30 error message. When I get it wrong I get 0x00.
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Where are you getting your power from?  What is the voltage you expect?  What voltage are you reading on the board?
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I would suggest checking for open circuits on your PCB.  It is very easy to have micro fractures and cold solder joints on homemade PCBs.  Even though it may look good, you can never tell unless you test and measure.

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