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Topic: Operating servo/strike latch for secret compartment using -stock- buttons (Read 2 times) previous topic - next topic


It's incredible how quickly even a relatively small current can drain a car battery - not to mention, even if it's not fully drained, too low a voltage can make the computer act all screwy!


I was thinking, it's not absolutely necessary for the board to pickup the signal through OBD to recognise it's been pressed. I'm sure that the majority of buttons (with the exception of things that require resistors like fan motors) are either power on or power off.

Would it work to hook up to the wires running to each switch (window up/down) for example, and assign that to a pin? Then I could do the same thing for several others, and write some code that would only allow the solenoid to open if the inputs were triggered in the correct order?


Of course. That's why you would connect it to your Auxillary circuit that is powered only when the ignition is in the ON position. You wouldn't be able to read you CAN codes otherwise anyway.

I am with making things a bit simpler as well, though. A well hidden button or even a few buttons would be just as effective. I wouldn't put them under the dash or in the glovebox though. Consider inside your upholstery. Or even reed switches that you activate with magnets in a certain sequence.

You have a certain amount of security through obscurity. How common is it that someone would have a hidden compartment in their car? Unless you made it very obvious, they wouldn't even know it was there and wouldn't be looking for buttons to open it.

It's worth pursuing, but there is no guarantee that you will have CAN codes for the stock buttons in your car.


That's an awesome idea actually! (Reed switches or buttons under the upholstery)


A couple of queries if I'm going to take the approach of just connecting wires to the switches themselves to detect when they are switched on/off and use this to trigger the solenoid:

1. How would I connect up the wires to the two wires coming off the back of each switch appropriately? I was thinking it would need to be in series to detect the voltage change - which will then I assume require relays so as to not fry my board!

2. Does anyone have any experience powering a board from a vehicle? (e.g. does anyone know what would be the best way to connect the board to a stable source of power (i.e. current, voltage))

Thanks thanks thanks in advance :)

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