I disagree with the suggestion of a tripod: you're going to want something more like a "copy stand" to hold the camera pointing dead straight at the PCB. If you try to use a tripod, you'll find that the legs get in the way, or you have to cantilever the camera out so far that it becomes unstable, or you have to try to prop up the subject at odd angles to get the camera's axis perpendicular to it. To make one really cheaply, start with a base that's nice and flat, and about 10-12 inches on a side. Something like one of those plastic kitchen cutting boards that's about half an inch thick should do. Mount a vertical piece of 2x2 lumber to it. Attach your camera/phone holder to another piece.of 2x2, and use a C-clamp to hold it horizontal at the right height.
First suggestion: look up reviews for your specific model of iPhone, and see how well its camera fared. My recollection is that some are good, and some not.
I picked up a Sony A330 on eBay for cheap. Its a decent entry level DSLR, plenty of features, seems pretty idiot proof (and was compatible with all my Minolta lenses).
You can just put it on a flat bed scanner and scan it.
In looking at the last link, they had a link to another technique of using the lens from a DVD player to put on your cellphone for simple macro shooting: http://www.diyphotography.net/super-macro-your-cellphone-camera-with-a-dvd-lens
Quote from: wizdum on Apr 04, 2013, 02:35 pmI picked up a Sony A330 on eBay for cheap. Its a decent entry level DSLR, plenty of features, seems pretty idiot proof (and was compatible with all my Minolta lenses). Just looked these up on Ebay and the body goes for very cheap, but the lenses are in the hundreds. Might have to keep an eye on this one.
I picked up one for my dad without the lens for $250, and mine came with the stock lens for $300. They were store display units that Sony wouldn't allow the stores to sell as open box I guess. IIRC, the A200 is a lot cheaper, and the only major difference is the lack of a tilt LCD.
The nice thing about scanning, is you'll have a true scale image without too much work. Put a ruler on the edge of your PCB, scan at 300dpi (or higher), then import to Photoshop and you have a highly detailed image that's also true to scale without perspective distortion. Here's an example PCB scan (not mine).
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